Generally overlooked as a destination in its own right, Trat is most commonly visited by those in transit. Easily accessible from Bangkok, it is the jumping off point for the islands of Ko Chang as well as a gateway to the Cambodian border at Hat Lek. Although first appearances might be that the town is quite functional and unexciting, a second glance and perhaps a lingering stay, will no doubt reveal its subtle charms.

Narrow alleyways snake past wooden houses, their balconied backs to the river. Fish and meat dry on the streets ready for the cooking pot, while friendly locals chat in their open fronted houses. The market is crowded with mountains of fresh seasonal fruit, next to obscure meat products, such as pig faces.

Accommodation in Trat is pretty basic and extremely cheap, especially when compared with what is available on Ko Chang. There is easy access to tourist amenities such as internet services, and most guesthouses offer ticket booking services. A wide range of restaurants are available, from funky little tourist cafes, through Thai backpacker standards, to western delights like pizza and KFC and of course local budget haunts and tasty market stalls.

Tratosphere at 23 Rimklong Soi sells books and curi9osities and has a terrific range of good quality secondhand books at prices much cheaper than usually found around Thailand. The friendly French/Thai owners are also a reliable and unbiased source of information about the area, and supply free maps of Trat to all the local guesthouses. They offer massage, and will occasionally take some items from visitors to display on sale while they are on the islands. Check them out.