This spectacular temple sits atop a 383m high extinct volcano and is the closest thing to Angkor Wat you will see in Thailand.

As with the Khmer ruins of Phimai (near Khorat), it is suspected that Phanom Rung may have been a prototype for what eventually became Angkor Wat. Once built it was also used as a resting spot for pilgrims making their way from Angkor to Phimai.

The temple is the largest and best restored in Thailand (the restoration took 17 years to complete) and was originally built between the 10th and 13th Centuries. The entire complex is built facing the east which, as with most Hindu monuments, usually face towards the dawn.

The long promenade leading to the main temple is the best of its kind in Thailand and is the site of a large festival in mid April.

Once at the western end of the promenade you reach the first naga bridge which is sided by spectacular five headed nagas. They are still in good condition and are identical to those which are found at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

At the top of the stairs is the gallery which leads into the primary sanctuary. The sanctuary has gallery entrances from the north, south, east and west, all of which display spectacular and intricately carved masonry depicting Hindu legends.

The lintel above the eastern entrance is the most famous. After being stolen in the 1960s it resurfaced in a display at the Art Institute of Chicago where it looked like it was going to stay, but thankfully it was eventually returned to its rightful home in 1988 -- only after supporters of the cause had raised over US$200,000 to 'facilitate' its return and had mounted a high profile campaign, the highlight of which was the album released by the band Carabao titled Thap Lang (Lintel). On the cover of the album was a picture of the Statue of Liberty holding the lintel and the song went along the lines of Take back your Michael Jackson, just give us back our Phra Narai!.

The central prang was built in a typical Khmer style has been very well restored and is particularly photogenic in the mornings for those who make the effort to beat the tours and get there early.

Near the site, there is a small museum with some sculpture from the site along with an interesting photographic essay of the restoration and a small selection of literature.

During early April a festival, the Phanom Rung Festival, is held here with traditional dance and fireworks along with a spectacular light and sound show in the evening.

Getting There
It is a little bit of an effort to get to Phanom Rung, but well worth it. If possible avoid weekends when the whole area is packed with local tourists and the scene is often not particularly conducive to a quiet appreciation of the site.

During the festival in April it is packed solid (but the festival is worth seeing). Early morning (before 10:00) offers the best light for photography.

Phanom Rung can be approached from Khorat, Buriram, Surin or nearby Nang Rong. From Khorat, Buriram or Surin catch a bus to Tapek which is 11km to the east of Ban Ta Ko. It is well signposted as the turn-off to Phanom Rung. Get off the bus there and wait for a songtheaw which runs to the foot of the hill.

The songtheaws can be quite infrequent (especially on weekdays) so if your patience gets the better of you, catch a motorcycle straight to the ruins and organise for them to wait for you while you visit the site - do not pay up front! If you get a songtheaw to the foot of the hill you can then get a motorbike taxi up and back. On weekends, songtheaws are far more regular.

If you come from Nang Rong, catch a songtheaw straight to the foot of the hill. These leave from the market, most are clearly marked as running to Phanom Rung. Once at the bottom of the hill you will have to catch another songtheaw or motorbike to the top.