Mukdahan

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The provincial capital, Mukdahan was one of the early border crossings to open with Laos and so for years now there has been a steady trickle of independent travellers passing through. Although most foreigners tend to use Mukdahan solely as an overnight transit point before heading over to Laos or further into Thailand and though the town is not overflowing with points of interest, there is enough here to justify a day or two if you have a lot of spare time on your hands.

Those who do decide to spend more than a few hours here will find a bunch of particularly friendly locals and have the chance to experience the simple straight-forward style of living Isan is famous for. Don't expect many English signs or menus, though it isn't really a problem as there are no shortage of locals happy to lend assistance.

Mukdahan is a very small city and if you enjoy walking, it's possible to walk across the city in less than an hour. The city centre is concentrated along the river front, making orientation very easy. Mukdahan's promenade offers clear views over to Laos and is the site of the Indochine market which is open daily. While there are plenty of river front shops where you can buy cheap imported goods, CD's, electrical items and anything you don't really need, the real pleasure is in the walk along the river and the chance to take some memorable pictures.

At the southern end of the promenade a narrow road runs alongside the river where you'll find a handful of restaurants to enjoy an evening meal and a beer right on the river bank. At the northern end is the Mukdahan immigration office, where there are a few cafes on Song Nang Satit road, just a few yards from the Huanam Hotel.

Heading away from the river on the same road it's a five minute walk to the lively night market. A section of the road is closed to traffic from around 17:00 and filled with street cafes, cheap clothing stalls, CD's and regional delicacies such as the popular Vietnamese Summer Roll (goi cuon - mixed salad rolled in rice paper) or the delicious Thai khao pad talay (fried rice with mixed seafood). Everyone seems to converge here every night to chat and mingle and it should be on every visitors itinerary. It's also the site of the City Pillar Shrine with the illuminated City Hall making an attractive backdrop.

With the 2007 opening of the Second Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge, Mukdahan is in growth. Land prices have tripled in recent years and there are plans to build a casino just two km from the bridge on the Laos side. You'll also see plenty of cars with Laos number plates around town as many Western expatriates cross the bridge to use Mukdahan's supermarkets.

Despite this, the city remains quiet, peaceful and has relatively safe roads. Crime is very low and there is a safe, friendly atmosphere. Further afield, it is a short easy drive to small villages along the banks of the river and if you take the time to venture into one of these rarely visited hamlets, you'll be the centre of attention with curious villagers wanting to know you.

Crossing the border
The border crossing with Laos via the Friendship Bridge II can be reached by local bus from Mukdahan bus station for around 50B and the crossing is open 06:00 to 22:00 daily. Try to get there early morning if you can to avoid any delays but if you're unlucky enough to arrive at the crossing just behind a group tour, be prepared for a queue. If you don't already have a Laos visa, most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival for around 1,200B. A minibus takes you across the bridge itself, where there always tuk tuk drivers waiting to take you into Savannakhet. If you already have your accommodation arranged, just ignore the drivers suggestions for a hotel. It should cost you no more than 50B (they are very happy to take Thai Baht or US Dollars if you have no Laos Kip). Coming in the opposite direction into Thailand, there are full immigration facilities and the standard Thai visa on arrival rules apply if you don't already have your visa arranged.

Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.

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Mukdahan reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Nice town and manageable on bicycle

I spent 3 nights in Mukdahan in early December 2011 and enjoyed my time there. The Mukdahan Tower is well worth a visit (great views from the top and interesting Museum section) and the river front part of town and Indochine Market are also interesting. The city is quite flat and can be easily explored on bicycle. Take the small road that runs to the right along the river.

I looked at 3 places offering bicycles for rent – the usual thing of flat tyres and no brakes on a never maintained bicycle in 2 places and then Nikorn Bike Shop, directly opposite The River City Hotel. The owner of Nikorn (and very competent bike mechanic) speaks good English and virtually reconditioned (new cables and lube, adjust brakes, changed tyres etc) an imported Japanese Mountain Bike for my use over the 3 days. The cost was 350 baht for the 3 days – a little more expensive than the other places but the bike was vastly superior and he offered an on call back up service as well.

The River City Hotel looks like becoming ‘the place to stay’ with a brand new multi-storey section with revolving restaurant due to open in early 2012. There seems to be a good selection of places to stay but I did find it difficult to find contact details for them and those I did send emails to (with Google Thai translation) failed to respond. Fax numbers were also difficult to come by. I gather there is no real need to book in advance (as I did) though, depends what you are comfortable with I guess.

A Travelfish member who lives in Mukdahan was extremely helpful and contact with him really made my stay memorable.

The local eating options are reasonable with a couple of noodle places not far from River City Hotel having great Vietanamese style Pho soup. The night market is also well worth a visit for local specialities. There is a very pleasant river front wooden Thai style restaurant (about 1 km to the right of Indochine Market - facing Laos)that has a great outlook over the river and where I had the best larpb gai ever.

If you like slow paced, rural, river front, medium sized towns than Mukdahan may be for you. It certainly has most services one would need but speaking at least a few words of Thai is pretty much essential.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By stekmer (dabbler)
Written on 14th December, 2011 after a visit to Mukdahan in December, 2011

Also reviewed by stekmer: That Phanom,
Isan Friendly

It's no wonder people enjoy living in friendly Mukdahan. There isn't all that much to do for travellers just passing through, but certainly enough for a relaxing overnight or two. Mukdahan also offers exceptional value for money, as prices are low and quality is high, and people looking to find off-the-beaten path Thailand should be pleased here.

I particularly enjoyed the Hor Kaew tower just out of town (20B) and the views of Mukdahan, Savannakhet, and the river from the 6th floor observation lounge. I also liked the colorful fountain in a traffic circle near the center of town. The riverfront area is just average, but still a good spot for a nice stroll and a meal.

Internet cafes were difficult to find, and had limited hours, but there are kiosks at the River City Hotel that give you 30 minutes of connection time for a 10 baht coin.

The bus station is a bit far from town, but a tuk tuk all the way to my hotel was only 40 baht, without bartering. The bus from That Phanom was only 45 baht, and getting to Savannakhet, Laos, on the international bus (45B) is quick (one hour including time at the border) and easy.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 19th February, 2010 after a visit to Mukdahan in January, 2010

Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok, Savannakhet,
The river is wide - great little town

This was a good review on Mukdahan (Muk). A few additional comments: I'm not a traveler, I live here. So my persective is a bit different.

Muk has some decent nightlife, with three nightclubs with your usual Coyote dancers, several other clubs with live music and a smattering of Karaoke places. Most nightlife is centered around the Mukdahan tower (called Hok gaow) and a smaller scene near the ploy palace hotel (again, just ask).There is also a small salsa dance scene, if you're into that. Muay Thai is also popular, and if you're lucky you can take in an evening of Thai boxing.

Muk has a six-hole golf course and driving range just out of town for those who enjoy golfing. You can rent equipment.

Muk has several nice swimming pools which cost about 100B a day for use per person. I find the nicest (but also smallest) to be located down the river road to the south of Indochina market (about 2km) across the street from the small Mekong river naval base.

There are some great fishing spots here. I don't fish, but again, ask around and you'll find them. The artificial fishing ponds have little huts built on them where you can sit in the shade, enjoy a beer (or whatever) and catch some really big fish!

The communist movement was strong here, and that is reflected in small observations here or there - if you pay attention. Muk's largest mountain, out in Kamcha-i, was a communist insurgent stronghold in the 70s. Across the river in Savannakhet is one of the old air America airfields -- now flying commercial flights to Bangkok and Vientiane.

There are not a lot of foreigners here, so we are somewhat of a curiosity item. Whether you are a man or a woman, if you are looking for company from the opposite sex, it won't be hard to find here. Rural Thailand is somewhat conservative - but not always. The mix here is very pleasant.

I've lived here two years and love the place!
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By MADMAC (dabbler)
Written on 6th June, 2009 after a visit to Mukdahan in April, 2009

Also reviewed by MADMAC: Nakhon Phanom, Savannakhet, That Phanom, Udon Thani, Yasothon,

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