Mukdahan was one of the early border crossings to open with Laos and so for years now there has been a steady trickle of independent travellers passing through. Although most foreigners tend to use Mukdahan solely as an overnight transit point before heading over to Laos or further into Thailand and though the town is not overflowing with points of interest, there is enough here to justify a day or two if you have a lot of spare time on your hands.

Those who do decide to spend more than a few hours here will find a bunch of particularly friendly locals and have the chance to experience the simple straight-forward style of living Isan is famous for. Don't expect many English signs or menus, though it isn't really a problem as there are no shortage of locals happy to lend assistance.

Mukdahan is a very small city and if you enjoy walking, it's possible to walk across the city in less than an hour. The city centre is concentrated along the river front, making orientation very easy. Mukdahan's promenade offers clear views over to Laos and is the site of the Indochine market which is open daily. While there are plenty of river front shops where you can buy cheap imported goods, CD's, electrical items and anything you don't really need, the real pleasure is in the walk along the river and the chance to take some memorable pictures.

At the southern end of the promenade a narrow road runs alongside the river where you'll find a handful of restaurants to enjoy an evening meal and a beer right on the river bank. At the northern end is the Mukdahan immigration office, where there are a few cafes on Song Nang Satit road, just a few yards from the Huanam Hotel.

Heading away from the river on the same road it's a five minute walk to the lively night market. A section of the road is closed to traffic from around 17:00 and filled with street cafes, cheap clothing stalls, CD's and regional delicacies such as the popular Vietnamese Summer Roll (goi cuon - mixed salad rolled in rice paper) or the delicious Thai khao pad talay (fried rice with mixed seafood). Everyone seems to converge here every night to chat and mingle and it should be on every visitors itinerary. It's also the site of the City Pillar Shrine with the illuminated City Hall making an attractive backdrop.

With the 2007 opening of the Second Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge, Mukdahan is in growth. Land prices have tripled in recent years and there are plans to build a casino just two km from the bridge on the Laos side. You'll also see plenty of cars with Laos number plates around town as many Western expatriates cross the bridge to use Mukdahan's supermarkets.

Despite this, the city remains quiet, peaceful and has relatively safe roads. Crime is very low and there is a safe, friendly atmosphere. Further afield, it is a short easy drive to small villages along the banks of the river and if you take the time to venture into one of these rarely visited hamlets, you'll be the centre of attention with curious villagers wanting to know you.

Orientation
The only roundabout in town is easy to spot and has images of the King with a fountain in the middle. The post office and tourist information centre are right on this roundabout and the main police station (T: (042) 611 333) is just a few yards from here heading North onto Phitak Santhirat Rd.

The two main hospitals in Mukdahan are:
Mukdahan International Hospital: 87 Mukdahann Doan Tarn Rd (near the Mukdahan Tower). T: (042) 633 301. http://www.drhann.com/indexmukinter.htm
Mukdahan government hospital: Intersection of Kaeo Kin Rd and Phitak Phanom Khet Rd. T: (042) 611 285.

There are small private clinics all over town, often operated by doctors from the government hospital in their off duty hours. Private clinics usually open in the evenings from 18:00 to 22:00, or in the mornings until 13:00. They usually have some degree of English.

All major Thai banks are represented in Mukdahan with several branches around town and there are ATM's everywhere. You are never more than a few hundred yards from a cash point but if in doubt, head to any 7-eleven store and there will be a cash machine. If you're heading over to Laos, stock up on enough cash for your trip before you go.
Note: Credit cards are not yet widely accepted in Mukdahan and most smaller hotels will only take cash as payment/deposit.

The internet has not yet found it's way to Mukdahan in a big way, although broadband is available there are few, if any places to go and check your email. There are numerous hole-in-the-wall style gaming shops, where young men go to play online games and it is possible to pop in and ask to use the internet. The best known option for foreigners needing the internet is the coffee shop in the reception of the Huanam Hotel and the GoodMook cafe where they have free WiFi for customers with a laptop.

Crossing the border
The border crossing with Laos via the Friendship Bridge II can be reached by local bus from Mukdahan bus station for around 50B and the crossing is open 06:00 to 22:00 daily. Try to get there early morning if you can to avoid any delays but if you're unlucky enough to arrive at the crossing just behind a group tour, be prepared for a queue. If you don't already have a Laos visa, most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival for around 1,200B. A minibus takes you across the bridge itself, where there always tuk tuk drivers waiting to take you into Savannakhet. If you already have your accommodation arranged, just ignore the drivers suggestions for a hotel. It should cost you no more than 50B (they are very happy to take Thai Baht or US Dollars if you have no Laos Kip). Coming in the opposite direction into Thailand, there are full immigration facilities and the standard Thai visa on arrival rules apply if you don't already have your visa arranged.