Mukdahan

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Nestled along a wide stretch of the Mekong River directly across from Savannakhet in Laos, the small provincial capital city of Mukdahan offers all we could hope for in a quick visit to northeastern Thailand. You'll find friendly locals, a relaxed atmosphere with just the right number of lively night spots, historic but little-known temples, spicy Isaan food, colourful markets, sweeping Mekong scenery and even a couple of outlying national parks that are worth a visit. If coming from Laos, you could not ask for a more pleasant introduction to Thailand than this.

Despite having so much to offer, most travellers still use Mukdahan solely as an overnight transit point before heading over to Laos or further into Thailand, but the city is well worth a couple of days if you've got the time. Mukdahan lacks the tourist-oriented cafes and travel shops found in more popular destinations, but the welcoming locals make up for that.

Although it still doesn't have the busy feel of larger Isaan cities like Khon Kaen or Ubon Ratchathani, Mukdahan continues to grow and prosper after the 2007 opening of the Second Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge and the bridge border crossing that came with it. With around 50,000 people calling the city home, Mukdahan is relaxed but not too sleepy. It offers a pleasant balance of old school Isaan charm and modern facilities.

Thanks to its location across the river from Laos and only 240 kilometres from the Vietnam border (not too far from Hue, Da Nang and Hoi An), Muk is also something of a common ground in Indochina -- expect to see cars with yellow Lao license plates cruising the streets and to find almost as many restaurants serving Vietnamese food as Thai. Historically, the area was home to several small tribes that have, for the most part, since assimilated into greater northeastern Thai culture. History and anthropology buffs will enjoy the well put together display on Mukdahan's past at Mukdahan Tower.

Crossing the border
The border crossing with Laos via the Friendship Bridge 2 can be reached by local bus from Mukdahan bus station for 45 baht, a fare that gets you all the way to Savannakhet's bus station. You can also take a tuk tuk to the bridge for around 100 baht depending on your bartering skills, but be warned that you'll still need to pay the 45 baht for the bus to take you across the bridge itself as it's no longer possible to walk. If you have your own transport, long-term parking is available right at the border for 100 baht per day for cars and 40 baht per day for motorbikes.

The crossing is open 06:00 to 22:00 daily and it's usually quiet compared to other crossings in the region. Occasionally you'll get stuck behind a busload of Thais heading to the casino on the Lao side, but even then, wait times are scarcely longer than 20 minutes at either Thai or Lao immigration.

After passing through Thai immigration, you'll need to get on the bus, cross the bridge, then get off to pass Lao immigration. If you don't already have a Lao visa, most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival for around 1,500 baht; we say "around" because Laos charges Canadians, for example, a slightly higher visa rate than Americans or Australians. Whatever the actual cost, it's wise to bring plenty of change so you'll have the exact amount. Application forms are available at the border so all you need is one passport size photo.

Once through Lao immigration, you can re-board the bus for the ride to the bus station in Savannakhet or pay a tuk tuk 100 to 200 baht -- again dependent on your bartering skills -- for a ride to the accommodation of your choice. Tuk tuks are happy to accept Thai baht or US dollars, but be warned that they usually try to push travellers into staying at hotels that offer them commissions.

The above process is, more or less, reversed in its entirety if coming from Laos and most nationalities will be stamped into Thailand for 15 days visa-free if they don't already have a Thai visa.

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Text and/or map last updated on 1st February, 2013.

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Mukdahan reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Nice town and manageable on bicycle

I spent 3 nights in Mukdahan in early December 2011 and enjoyed my time there. The Mukdahan Tower is well worth a visit (great views from the top and interesting Museum section) and the river front part of town and Indochine Market are also interesting. The city is quite flat and can be easily explored on bicycle. Take the small road that runs to the right along the river.

I looked at 3 places offering bicycles for rent – the usual thing of flat tyres and no brakes on a never maintained bicycle in 2 places and then Nikorn Bike Shop, directly opposite The River City Hotel. The owner of Nikorn (and very competent bike mechanic) speaks good English and virtually reconditioned (new cables and lube, adjust brakes, changed tyres etc) an imported Japanese Mountain Bike for my use over the 3 days. The cost was 350 baht for the 3 days – a little more expensive than the other places but the bike was vastly superior and he offered an on call back up service as well.

The River City Hotel looks like becoming ‘the place to stay’ with a brand new multi-storey section with revolving restaurant due to open in early 2012. There seems to be a good selection of places to stay but I did find it difficult to find contact details for them and those I did send emails to (with Google Thai translation) failed to respond. Fax numbers were also difficult to come by. I gather there is no real need to book in advance (as I did) though, depends what you are comfortable with I guess.

A Travelfish member who lives in Mukdahan was extremely helpful and contact with him really made my stay memorable.

The local eating options are reasonable with a couple of noodle places not far from River City Hotel having great Vietanamese style Pho soup. The night market is also well worth a visit for local specialities. There is a very pleasant river front wooden Thai style restaurant (about 1 km to the right of Indochine Market - facing Laos)that has a great outlook over the river and where I had the best larpb gai ever.

If you like slow paced, rural, river front, medium sized towns than Mukdahan may be for you. It certainly has most services one would need but speaking at least a few words of Thai is pretty much essential.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By stekmer (dabbler)
Written on 14th December, 2011 after a visit to Mukdahan in December, 2011

Also reviewed by stekmer: That Phanom,
Isan Friendly

It's no wonder people enjoy living in friendly Mukdahan. There isn't all that much to do for travellers just passing through, but certainly enough for a relaxing overnight or two. Mukdahan also offers exceptional value for money, as prices are low and quality is high, and people looking to find off-the-beaten path Thailand should be pleased here.

I particularly enjoyed the Hor Kaew tower just out of town (20B) and the views of Mukdahan, Savannakhet, and the river from the 6th floor observation lounge. I also liked the colorful fountain in a traffic circle near the center of town. The riverfront area is just average, but still a good spot for a nice stroll and a meal.

Internet cafes were difficult to find, and had limited hours, but there are kiosks at the River City Hotel that give you 30 minutes of connection time for a 10 baht coin.

The bus station is a bit far from town, but a tuk tuk all the way to my hotel was only 40 baht, without bartering. The bus from That Phanom was only 45 baht, and getting to Savannakhet, Laos, on the international bus (45B) is quick (one hour including time at the border) and easy.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 19th February, 2010 after a visit to Mukdahan in January, 2010

Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok, Savannakhet,
The river is wide - great little town

This was a good review on Mukdahan (Muk). A few additional comments: I'm not a traveler, I live here. So my persective is a bit different.

Muk has some decent nightlife, with three nightclubs with your usual Coyote dancers, several other clubs with live music and a smattering of Karaoke places. Most nightlife is centered around the Mukdahan tower (called Hok gaow) and a smaller scene near the ploy palace hotel (again, just ask).There is also a small salsa dance scene, if you're into that. Muay Thai is also popular, and if you're lucky you can take in an evening of Thai boxing.

Muk has a six-hole golf course and driving range just out of town for those who enjoy golfing. You can rent equipment.

Muk has several nice swimming pools which cost about 100B a day for use per person. I find the nicest (but also smallest) to be located down the river road to the south of Indochina market (about 2km) across the street from the small Mekong river naval base.

There are some great fishing spots here. I don't fish, but again, ask around and you'll find them. The artificial fishing ponds have little huts built on them where you can sit in the shade, enjoy a beer (or whatever) and catch some really big fish!

The communist movement was strong here, and that is reflected in small observations here or there - if you pay attention. Muk's largest mountain, out in Kamcha-i, was a communist insurgent stronghold in the 70s. Across the river in Savannakhet is one of the old air America airfields -- now flying commercial flights to Bangkok and Vientiane.

There are not a lot of foreigners here, so we are somewhat of a curiosity item. Whether you are a man or a woman, if you are looking for company from the opposite sex, it won't be hard to find here. Rural Thailand is somewhat conservative - but not always. The mix here is very pleasant.

I've lived here two years and love the place!
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By MADMAC (dabbler)
Written on 6th June, 2009 after a visit to Mukdahan in April, 2009

Also reviewed by MADMAC: Chaiyaphum, Nakhon Phanom, Savannakhet, That Phanom, Udon Thani, Yasothon,

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