That Phanom
Travel Guide
We love this place! That Phanom is a sleepy small town 55km south of Nakhon Phanom. The locals here have to be amongst the friendliest in all of I-san and it is home to the equally friendly and homely Niyana Guesthouse.
The town is home to Isan's most revered temple, the same-named Wat That Phanom, a spectacular pagoda that sits a few hundred metres back off the riverbank. At 57 metres tall the glittering gold and white chedi is a particularly fine example of the Lao style of design. According to legend, the original construction was built over 1,500 years ago to house, you guessed it, an original relic of the Buddha himself -- in this case a breastbone.
Over the next millenium or so, it's collapsed on a number of occasions, including once in 1975. This collapse is of interest due to a legend floating around that should the chedi fall, so would the Lao government, and sure enough not long after the collapse the government in Laos fell. No word on what happened to the Lao government the other half dozen times the stupa "had issues".
At the full moon of the third lunar month (February to March) a huge festival is held here and every hotel for miles around is packed as Thai and Lao devotees fall upon the town in their thousands. The wat is located on Chayangkun Road and is impossible to miss.
A second, far less grandiose attraction in That Phanom, is the small archway that is a rough copy of the Patuxai in Vientiane.
Further afield, some 10km out of That Phanom, lies the village of Renu Nakhon. It's a small silk and cotton weaving village where reasonably priced fabrics are available. To get there take a songtheaw to the turn-off at km 44 and catch another for the 7km to the village. There are also occasional direct ones from That Phanom or visit it by bicycle - a long way, but it will keep you fit.
Check That Phanom hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Accommodation: General
Chai Von Hotel |
Niyana Guesthouse |
Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.
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That Phanom reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Nice enough but 1 day was plenty for me
I booked into Ta That Phanom Palace Hotel for 2 nights (a great family run hotel) and arrived around 1000 hrs from Nakhon Phanom but by about 1500 hrs I'd seen the famous (and very interesting ) Wat Phra That Phanom and Museum and most of the township and ended up leaving the next day for Mukdahan. The use of the free bicycle from the hotel helped cover some ground.
I had a nice dinner at a river front cafe but found the river front area is a bit neglected and run down compared to other river side towns/citys along the Mekong (Nong Khai and Nakhon Phanom in particular)
The people were certainly nice but in retrospect I'd rather have spent extra time in Nakhon Phanom rather than in That Phanom.
The bus rides between Nakhon Phanom and That Phanom and onto Mukdahan are both about an hour, the bargain ride being the 2nd class non AC wooden floored bus from That Phanom to Mukdahan for 15 baht.
I'm certainly glad I went and would recommend Wat Phra That Phanom to anyone but (as it was for me) more than a whole day and one night might not be everyones cup of tea.
By stekmer (dabbler)
Written on 4th December, 2011 after a visit to That Phanom in November, 2011
Also reviewed by stekmer: Mukdahan,
Friendly as Advertised
It is easy to see why people like the town of That Phanom so much, since during my visit in January 2010 folks were every bit as friendly as advertised. There are great views along the riverside walkway, and the string of restaurants in this area are colorful and charming. The nightlife seems to be limited to just a few karaoke joints along the river, however, as most of the waterside restaurants close early.
Wat That Phanom itself is definitely worth a look if you are in the area, as it is welcoming, cheerful, and impressive when all lit up at night. But apart from the wat and the riverside stroll, there just wasn't that much to do here, and a quick overnight stay turned out to be more than enough time to explore the place.
It is a real bummer about Niyana Guesthouse closing, as it leaves you a choice of grotty (Saeng Thong), grottier (Chaivon), and grottiest (Rimkhong Bungalow) places to stay. Saeng Thong is just a block or so down river from the south end of the walking area and has cold-water fan rooms for 250 baht or hot-water rooms with aircon and cable TV and a few other nice touches for 400 baht. Even so, the rooms were dingy and depressing and not as clean as they should be.
One promising looking hotel that I unfortunately didn't find until too late is the Kritsada Rimkhong, about 500 meters north along the riverside walkway. It is a bit more expensive, with rooms in the 350 to 600 baht range, and has an attached restaurant across the road on the river bank. The email address listed on the small sign in english is ksdresort@thaimail.com.
Please note that the That Phanom bus station is actually to the north and west of Wat That Phanom along the main highway and about a 30 baht tuk tuk ride from town. It is also possible to get directly to/from Bangkok from here. The Bangkok-bound buses typically leave in the 5 to 6 pm range, with prices from 400 baht for a 2nd class aircon bus, all the way up to 800 baht for a 24 seat VIP bus.
By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 18th February, 2010 after a visit to That Phanom in January, 2010
Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok,
That Phanom is a great place
This is a wonderful small city. The river front area offers some Thai restaurants featuring a lovely view of the river. I have often enjoyed just sitting there passing the time with a book and drinking a beer.
The temple is very impressive. Clean and well maintained, it is a beautiful piece of historic architecture that is living history, for it is heavily visited by Thai tourists and those coming to pray. I enjoy visiting this site more than any other in Thailand (including the reclining Bhudda or Jim Thompson House or some of the other more well known sites).
I highly recommend it for those who want to get off the beaten path (at least the western tourist beaten path - the path is well beaten by Thais). Just a lovely little city with a great vibe.
By MADMAC (dabbler)
Written on 9th June, 2009 after a visit to That Phanom in May, 2009
Also reviewed by MADMAC: Chaiyaphum, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, Savannakhet, Udon Thani, Yasothon,