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That Phanom




























 
 

That Phanom

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We love this place! That Phanom is a sleepy small town 55km south of Nakhon Phanom. The locals here have to be amongst the friendliest in all of I-san and it is home to the equally friendly and homely Niyana Guesthouse.

The town is home to Isan's most revered temple, the same-named Wat That Phanom, a spectacular pagoda that sits a few hundred metres back off the riverbank. At 57 metres tall the glittering gold and white chedi is a particularly fine example of the Lao style of design. According to legend, the original construction was built over 1,500 years ago to house, you guessed it, an original relic of the Buddha himself -- in this case a breastbone.

Over the next millenium or so, it's collapsed on a number of occasions, including once in 1975. This collapse is of interest due to a legend floating around that should the chedi fall, so would the Lao government, and sure enough not long after the collapse the government in Laos fell. No word on what happened to the Lao government the other half dozen times the stupa "had issues".


 
















At the full moon of the third lunar month (February to March) a huge festival is held here and every hotel for miles around is packed as Thai and Lao devotees fall upon the town in their thousands. The wat is located on Chayangkun Road and is impossible to miss.

A second, far less grandiose attraction in That Phanom, is the small archway that is a rough copy of the Patuxai in Vientiane.

Further afield, some 10km out of That Phanom, lies the village of Renu Nakhon. It's a small silk and cotton weaving village where reasonably priced fabrics are available. To get there take a songtheaw to the turn-off at km 44 and catch another for the 7km to the village. There are also occasional direct ones from That Phanom or visit it by bicycle - a long way, but it will keep you fit.

Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.

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The gate and procession statues at Wat That Phanom Central prang of Wat That Phanom Wedding shot at Wat That Phanom Wat That Phanom in the distance Main prang, Wat That Phanom Straight view of Wat That Phanom Gateway at Wat That Phanom Main prang, morning light, Wat That Phanom Statue detail Wat That Phanom Central prang, Wat That Phanom
Very early morning at Wat That Phanom Shaded Buddha, Wat That Phanom Landscape of  Wat That Phanom Closer approach to Wat That Phanom Closer shot of Wat That Phanom Main prang and gateway, Wat That Phanom Temple detail, Wat That Phanom

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Fresh off our Asia travel forum

Here are some discussions off the Travelfish forum, perhaps related to That Phanom. You can find the full forum here.

Topic Replies  Views 
Elle's Guesthouse in That Phanom, Nakhon Phanom 
In Thailand additions: by ellemayu, last reply by exacto
2 1182

That Phanom reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Friendly as Advertised
By exacto (dabbler - 13 reviews)
Written on 18th February, 2010 after a visit to That Phanom in January, 2010

It is easy to see why people like the town of That Phanom so much, since during my visit in January 2010 folks were every bit as friendly as advertised. There are great views along the riverside walkway, and the string of restaurants in this area are colorful and charming. The nightlife seems to be limited to just a few karaoke joints along the river, however, as most of the waterside restaurants close early.

Wat That Phanom itself is definitely worth a look if you are in the area, as it is welcoming, cheerful, and impressive when all lit up at night. But apart from the wat and the riverside stroll, there just wasn't that much to do here, and a quick overnight stay turned out to be more than enough time to explore the place.

It is a real bummer about Niyana Guesthouse closing, as it leaves you a choice of grotty (Saeng Thong), grottier (Chaivon), and grottiest (Rimkhong Bungalow) places to stay. Saeng Thong is just a block or so down river from the south end of the walking area and has cold-water fan rooms for 250 baht or hot-water rooms with aircon and cable TV and a few other nice touches for 400 baht. Even so, the rooms were dingy and depressing and not as clean as they should be.

One promising looking hotel that I unfortunately didn't find until too late is the Kritsada Rimkhong, about 500 meters north along the riverside walkway. It is a bit more expensive, with rooms in the 350 to 600 baht range, and has an attached restaurant across the road on the river bank. The email address listed on the small sign in english is ksdresort@thaimail.com.

Please note that the That Phanom bus station is actually to the north and west of Wat That Phanom along the main highway and about a 30 baht tuk tuk ride from town. It is also possible to get directly to/from Bangkok from here. The Bangkok-bound buses typically leave in the 5 to 6 pm range, with prices from 400 baht for a 2nd class aircon bus, all the way up to 800 baht for a 24 seat VIP bus.

  Sights & activities
  History & culture
  Scenery & environment
  Eat & drink
  Traveller's scene
  Romance
  Value for money
  I'll be back (or not)
Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Pakse, Phitsanulok,
That Phanom is a great place
By MADMAC (dabbler - 8 reviews)
Written on 9th June, 2009 after a visit to That Phanom in May, 2009

This is a wonderful small city. The river front area offers some Thai restaurants featuring a lovely view of the river. I have often enjoyed just sitting there passing the time with a book and drinking a beer.

The temple is very impressive. Clean and well maintained, it is a beautiful piece of historic architecture that is living history, for it is heavily visited by Thai tourists and those coming to pray. I enjoy visiting this site more than any other in Thailand (including the reclining Bhudda or Jim Thompson House or some of the other more well known sites).

I highly recommend it for those who want to get off the beaten path (at least the western tourist beaten path - the path is well beaten by Thais). Just a lovely little city with a great vibe.
  Sights & activities
  History & culture
  Scenery & environment
  Eat & drink
  Traveller's scene
  Romance
  Value for money
  I'll be back (or not)
Also reviewed by MADMAC: Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, Savannakhet, Udon Thani, Yasothon,

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