Phimai

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Once a part of the sprawling Khmer empire, Phimai was once directly connected by road to the capital of Angkor and was considered to be in integral part of the empire, seeing a steady stream of traders and religious travellers passing through it's gates.

Today, Phimai is not quite so grandiose, but it remains a charming little town nevertheless -- afterall, how many Thai towns have an ancient set of ruins sitting in their midst. The contrast of old versus new striking; the well manicured gardens and finely restored Prasat Phimai is a sea of tranquility surrounded by bustling shops and a vibrant daily life.

The area immediately surrounding the ruins is known as "old Phimai", although other than the ruins themselves there is absolutely nothing ancient about it. "New Phimai" is a couple of kilometres away, in a slightly seedier area with none of the charm of the old.

The town is home to a small collection of guesthouses and restaurants catering to the travellers who'd prefer to overnight here rather than visit on a daytrip from Khorat. If you've got the time, Phimai is worth an overnight stay.

Fairly flat and only about 4 sq km in total, Phimai is easily travelled on foot but you may prefer to hire a bicycle to ride to outlying destinations like Sai Ngam -- home to Thailand's largest Banyan tree, and the National Museum.

From around 3pm the night market starts to set up, and wandering the long main street you'll find great cheap street food as well as clothes, vegetables and other bits and pieces. It's a terrific place for people watching, hanging our or if you're wanting to stock up on frog-on-a-stick.

Our recommendations

If time allows, try to visit the ruins more than once -- preferably in the morning and late afternoon. At these times, the light really brings out the colour in the warm stone that forms the central temple. In the middle of the day, escape the glaring light and blazing heat by cycling over to Sai Ngam and shelter under the massive banyan tree.

Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.

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Phimai reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Excellent Place

Phimai has 2 great things about it.
First, the temple is impressive. I live in Cambodia, so going to Phimai and seeing Khmer heritage may interest me more than others. It's a very important part of Angkorian history. It's a very quiet place and town. The museum is also good and contains many pieces from the temple.
Second, the people are very friendly - plenty of smiles from shopowners just walking around town.
It was just a very relaxing day and night, and maybe I should have stayed an extra day and biked around.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
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- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By Andrewjmarino (dabbler)
Written on 22nd April, 2011 after a visit to Phimai in April, 2011

Also reviewed by Andrewjmarino: Banteay Chhmar, Hoi An, Surin,
Worth the trip

While getting to Phimai by bus takes a little extra effort (you will likely have to change buses in Nakhon Ratchasima), we found it well worth the effort.

The ruins of Prasat Phimai are both impressive and peaceful. Take the time to walk around the outer walls and enjoy the natural beauty as its blends into the ruins. When we arrived on a Monday during the late afternoon we shared the place with just a few monks, making for some great photography. To avoid the crowds, don't come on weekends; it was filled with local tourists all day Sunday.

Beyond the ruins, Phimai begged us to stay a couple extra days. The locals were friendly and the setting relaxing. Head to Sai Ngam for the sprawling Banyan Trees where you can feel like you're walking through a magical children's book (also found great photography opportunities here), take a relaxed bike ride along the Moon River, and sample some authentic cuisine at the eclectic night market. The market is a food lover's highlight, and since most items are displayed there's no need to speak Thai.

We found an outstanding room with excellent value and friendly staff at Paradise Apartments. Give the restaurant/bar across from Paradise a try for dinner. Travelfish lists it only as a bar, but we enjoyed authentic, SPICY Isan cuisine there three nights in a row and were never let down.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By DLuek (dabbler)
Written on 21st May, 2009 after a visit to Phimai in February, 2009

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