Phimai

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Some 800 years ago, Phimai was directly connected by a road to Angkor Wat and the centre of the once vast and powerful Khmer empire. The outpost was considered an integral part of the empire, seeing a steady stream of traders and religious travellers passing through its gates.

Today, Phimai is not quite so grandoise, but it remains a charming little town nevertheless -- afterall, how many Thai towns have an ancient set of ruins sitting in their midst? The main attraction is Prasat Phimai Historical Park, and though it's not as impressive as the ruins of Angkor or even Phanom Rung, the fully restored ancient ruins and surrounding gardens are a sea of tranquility in the midst of the sleepy but still vibrant Phimai town.

The area immediately surrounding the ruins is known as Old Phimai, although other than the ruins themselves there is absolutely nothing ancient about it. “New Phimai" is a couple of kilometres away, in a far less charming area that features little more than the main bus station and some car dealerships.

Phimai is home to a small collection of guesthouses and restaurants catering to the travellers who'd prefer to overnight here rather than visit on a daytrip from Khorat. Though all the sites may easily be seen in a day, the town's charmingly slow pace of life seems to cast a dreamy spell over visitors, so if you've got the time, Phimai is worth a night or two. .

Fairly flat and only about 4 sq km in total, Phimai is easily travelled on foot but you may prefer to hire a bicycle to ride to outlying destinations like Sai Ngam -- home to Thailand's largest Banyan tree, and the National Museum. A bike ride along the Mun River is also an enjoyable way to spend a late afternoon.

From around 15:00 the night market starts to set up, and wandering the long main street you'll find great cheap street food as well as clothes, vegetables and other bits and pieces. It's a terrific place for absorbing the colourful local culture, or if you're just wanting to stock up on frog-on-a-stick.

Our recommendations

If time allows, try to visit the ruins more than once -- preferably in the morning and late afternoon. At these times, the light really brings out the colour in the warm stone that forms the central temple. In the middle of the day, escape the glaring light and blazing heat by cycling over to Sai Ngam and shelter under the massive banyan tree.

Text and/or map last updated on 17th July, 2012.

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Phimai reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Excellent Place

Phimai has 2 great things about it.
First, the temple is impressive. I live in Cambodia, so going to Phimai and seeing Khmer heritage may interest me more than others. It's a very important part of Angkorian history. It's a very quiet place and town. The museum is also good and contains many pieces from the temple.
Second, the people are very friendly - plenty of smiles from shopowners just walking around town.
It was just a very relaxing day and night, and maybe I should have stayed an extra day and biked around.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By Andrewjmarino (dabbler)
Written on 22nd April, 2011 after a visit to Phimai in April, 2011

Also reviewed by Andrewjmarino: Banteay Chhmar, Hoi An, Surin,
Worth the trip

While getting to Phimai by bus takes a little extra effort (you will likely have to change buses in Nakhon Ratchasima), we found it well worth the effort.

The ruins of Prasat Phimai are both impressive and peaceful. Take the time to walk around the outer walls and enjoy the natural beauty as its blends into the ruins. When we arrived on a Monday during the late afternoon we shared the place with just a few monks, making for some great photography. To avoid the crowds, don't come on weekends; it was filled with local tourists all day Sunday.

Beyond the ruins, Phimai begged us to stay a couple extra days. The locals were friendly and the setting relaxing. Head to Sai Ngam for the sprawling Banyan Trees where you can feel like you're walking through a magical children's book (also found great photography opportunities here), take a relaxed bike ride along the Moon River, and sample some authentic cuisine at the eclectic night market. The market is a food lover's highlight, and since most items are displayed there's no need to speak Thai.

We found an outstanding room with excellent value and friendly staff at Paradise Apartments. Give the restaurant/bar across from Paradise a try for dinner. Travelfish lists it only as a bar, but we enjoyed authentic, SPICY Isan cuisine there three nights in a row and were never let down.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By DLuek (dabbler)
Written on 21st May, 2009 after a visit to Phimai in February, 2009

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