Once a part of the sprawling Khmer empire, Phimai was once directly connected by road to the capital of Angkor and was considered to be in integral part of the empire, seeing a steady stream of traders and religious travellers passing through it's gates.

Today, Phimai is not quite so grandiose, but it remains a charming little town nevertheless -- afterall, how many Thai towns have an ancient set of ruins sitting in their midst. The contrast of old versus new striking; the well manicured gardens and finely restored Prasat Phimai is a sea of tranquility surrounded by bustling shops and a vibrant daily life.

The area immediately surrounding the ruins is known as "old Phimai", although other than the ruins themselves there is absolutely nothing ancient about it. "New Phimai" is a couple of kilometres away, in a slightly seedier area with none of the charm of the old.

The town is home to a small collection of guesthouses and restaurants catering to the travellers who'd prefer to overnight here rather than visit on a daytrip from Khorat. If you've got the time, Phimai is worth an overnight stay.

Fairly flat and only about 4 sq km in total, Phimai is easily travelled on foot but you may prefer to hire a bicycle to ride to outlying destinations like Sai Ngam -- home to Thailand's largest Banyan tree, and the National Museum.

From around 3pm the night market starts to set up, and wandering the long main street you'll find great cheap street food as well as clothes, vegetables and other bits and pieces. It's a terrific place for people watching, hanging our or if you're wanting to stock up on frog-on-a-stick.

Orientation
The town's two principal roads, Anantajinda and Tha Songkhran, intersect at the digital clock tower. Attractions and services are mostly concentrated on the east-west running main road, Anantajinda, while north-south running Tha Songkhran (which turns into Route 206) leads in and out of town.

Banks are plentiful and offer the standard withdrawal and exchange services. Most have 24-hour ATM's. ATM's can also be found attached to the town's convenience stores, three of which are within easy walking distance of the Prasat and are open 24-hours.

Just adjacent to the Prasat, a tourist police booth offers a good selection of maps and area information.

The post office lies on the western border of the park -- from the Prasat, go past the tourist police and take the first right. The post office is a block and a half up on the left.

Bicycles can be hired at both The Old Phimai and Boonsiri Guesthouses for 20B/hour or 100B/day. Should you need a motorbike, the Honda shop on the main road just over the river rents them for 200 B/day -- be sure to bring your passport as you'll need to leave that as a deposit on the motorbike.

Internet is available at Old Phimai, Boonsiri, and Cat and Fiddle for 20B/hour.

For entertainment, there is a movie theatre down the road from the Phimai Hotel and while most movies are in Thai, the occasional film in English may get a run.

Phimai Hospital is about 2 km out of town toward Korat on Route 206.

Bangkok Bank: 8/1 Moo 6 Anantajinda Rd, Phimai. T: (044) 471 299; (044) 471 315. Mon-Fri 8:30-15:30.
Honda: Next to Cat and Fiddle, Moo 14 Tom Boon Nai, Phimai. Closed Sunday.
Kasikorn Bank: 248 Moo 14 Chomsudasaget Rd, Phimai. T: (044) 287 400; (044) 471 352. Mon-Fri 8:30-15:30.
Movie Theatre: Haruethairome Rd. at Suriya Asssadong Rd, Phimai.
Phimai Hospital: Route 206, Phimai. Tel: (044) 471 288.
Post Office: 123 Wonprang Rd, Phimai. Tel: (044) 471 342. Mon-Fri 8:30-16:30, Sat 8:30-12:30.
Tourist Police: Next to the park, Anantajinda Rd, Phimai. T: 1155; (044) 341 777.