Nong Khai

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The long and narrow province of Nong Khai caps the top of northeast Thailand, serving as a buffer between central Isaan and Laos. For many, it acts as the primary gateway to Thailand’s northern neighbour. Bordered by the Mekong river along its entire northern edge, the province has some stunning scenery and history, as well as a succession of interesting villages and small towns running along the riverside.

As with most of the cities and provinces along both banks of the Mekong, Nong Khai has historically been passed back and forth between the controls of opposing forces, most notably the Ayutthaya kingdom in Thailand and the Lan Xang kingdom of Laos. Indeed, much of the province’s culture and population originated in Laos, thanks in part more recently to an influx of Laotian royalists and refugees during the Communist takeover of the still-developing country in the 1970s. However, the relationship between Thailand and Laos today is largely focused on cooperation, and the area has seen great progress toward stability and prosperity in recent decades.

It was through Nong Khai that the first land crossing to Laos was opened for foreigners via the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, which was completed in 1994. Although there are more and more travel options available to the Laos-bound voyager today, many still choose to go via Nong Khai. Its proximity to the border and the Thai embassy in Vientiane makes it the perfect destination to while away the last days allowed to you on your Thai visa before heading across the river for some Lao adventures (or simply to top-up your Thai visa account and have another go at it).

Look through any guesthouse ledger in the provincial capital of Nong Khai and you'll see the same names repeated again and again, as people find themselves drawn here repeatedly, and often for a lot longer than they planned. With a collection of excellent places to stay, comprehensive and convenient transportation, and many alluring attractions, Nong Khai is a choice destination for both foreign and Thai tourists. While the town itself is definitively urban, the atmosphere is quite laidback, even tame -- much more so than Vientiane -- and makes for an excellent low-cost destination for a family trip or relaxing getaway.

Nong Khai is best viewed from the seat of a bicycle, and one can easily get from one end of town to the other many times over in the span of a day. There are enough temples and chedis here to keep even the most avid wat-aholic happy, including historically significant Wat Po Chai, the curiously unique sunken chedi of Wat Phra That, and the prolifically outlandish Wat Sala Kaew Ku. Along the riverfront you will find restaurants and shops, along with Tha Sadej market, where visitors can spend hours sorting through an endless succession of inexpensive wears and delicious local specialty foods. All you need to do is sit back, enjoy the ride and embrace the somnolent pace of this border town.

Orientation
Like the province, the town is long and thin, with most of the guesthouses clustered around the western end of town and a selection of restaurants nearby. The main thoroughfares through town are Meechai Road (small and closest to the river), Prajak Road (a bit busier) and Highway 212 (a full, multi-lane highway), all running approximately parallel through most of the city.

If you find yourself in need of medical assistance, Nong Khai Hospital is located on Meechai Road just west of the Haisoke intersection, and directly across the street from the police station. If you need the tourist police, go to the Prajak-Mittaphab Road intersection just a block away from the main police station.

Many Thai banks and petrol stations can be found scattered about Prajak Road, with most boasting ATMs. Meechai Road also hosts a few banks, as well as the Nong Khai post office, which can be found across the street from what is essentially the centre access lane for Tha Sadej market. Internet cafes are on both roads -- we liked the charm and prices at Mama’s Guesthouse on Meechai.

The bus station can be found on Prajak Road next door to Wat Po Chai and the tourist-minded Po Chai market. If you’re staying in town it’s most likely walking distance.

The train station is a bit outside of the downtown area, just west and on the far side of the 212 highway. Walking there is probably not your best bet, but it is fairly easy to find if you have your own transportation.

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Text and/or map last updated on 4th January, 2012.

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Nong Khai reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

brief visit

Diamond in the rough! Wasn't expecting much from this sleepy town and was merely going to use it as a transport interchange but it is DEFINITELY a destination in its own right. There is masses to do locally as it is very easy to get involved in local trades, help out and volunteer, join trekking parties, chat and eat with locals and experience a little of the Isaan way of life. I could quite easily spend a few weeks here!

The main reason there are a wealth of things to do is due to the lack of ''farang'' around and about and the attitudes and approach of those who do take the time to visit Nong Khai.
Volunteering, trekking, cycling to the surrounding villages to see river fishing, harvesting and the like is all facilitated by the owners of Mutmee Guesthouse where I stayed. There knowledge of the local area is second to none and despite (in my opinion) the accommodation itself being slightly overrated, the information and suggestions of what to do locally are fantastic. They can pretty much organise anything for you at the drop of a hat, answer your 30 questions, suggest something to do if you have an afternoon in limbo, enrol you on a yoga class, hook you up with a massage - you name it they know exactly where to start.

Even if you don't stay at the Mutmee Guest house, utilise their website and certainly make it one of your first ports of call on your arrival in Nong Khai. Bring a book, help yourself to a coffee, curl up in comfort in their garden overlooking the river and indulge in their guidebooks and maps and suggestion booklets on the area for an hour before taking a wander to the Hornbill bookshop and a saunter along the waterfront for the sunset.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By emmakel82 (dabbler)
Written on 18th December, 2011 after a visit to Nong Khai in December, 2011
What a Gem!!

We arrived in Nong Khai to stay for three days before going to Laos. We've been here a week now and we still have seen everything. There seems to be so much going on in this little town from places to meditate, exercise (Thai style) on the esplanades or outside various Wats, to the amazing concrete sculpture park (not to be missed!, yoga classes, volunteering with orphan organisations, or just helping locals speak english, just heaps to do. This town has something you can't put your finger on. No touting here like down south, everyone is friendly and very helpful. Some parts of town you go to are even surprised to see westerners go past still as most people just pass through this town without getting the wonderful experience of it. I was biking with my husband one day and we passed these ladies making artificial flower (for funerals). We stopped and they asked us to join them. I had a go at making some and my husband who didn't speak a word of Thai had the old girls in fits of laughter. We ended up in a coffee shop one day having a beer and a laugh with the girls when we realised we were sitting in a brothel. You might say we were a bit thick not to realise, but other couples were also there enjoying a beer too. The girls knew we were just after the beer and a relax out of the hot sun. And so is Nong Khai....
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By danceswithrose (dabbler)
Written on 23rd December, 2010 after a visit to Nong Khai in December, 2010
Most relaxing town

Visited :
January - April 2008/ September 2008/ April 2009 / October - November 2009

On thing I have to pick from exacto's post above is that it still is a sleepy town and keeps it's original taste of Thai and Isan culture.

The backpacker scene here is less then a lot of other places in Thailand, most backpackers who come here do it mostly to do some volunteer work. Therefore the the town stays quiet and doesn't have a lot of backpack/expat life.

There are indeed good pubs and country pubs to go out and you'll find about 90% locals at these places. Staying here for a longer period will give you a nice and relaxing way of living and the ability to meet a lot of the locals.

Also on Sunday you have a nice evening market with amazing food stalls.

I haven't seen the town changing a lot in the last two years and hopefully it will stay like that. Sometimes wished I was born Thai and raised here.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By svendj (dabbler)
Written on 5th November, 2010 after a visit to Nong Khai in January, 2008
Enjoy the Riverside Lifestyle

Because of its location directly on the Mekong River, Nong Khai has long been one of my favorite spots to visit in Thailand, and I stopped by twice on my most recent trip in January 2010. The location at the end of the Thai rail line and ease of getting across the river to Vientiane make it a great place to spend a day or two on the way to or from Laos as well.

The city continues to develop as a tourist destination, with a cozy and well-constructed kilometre-long riverside promenade at the heart of it. Adjacent to Nong Khai's local market, this walkway is lined with dozens of restaurants, shops, and bars and is a pleasant place to spend an afternoon or an evening.

The traveller's scene is definitely moving upscale here, and you'll see more older farang couples and Thai-Western couples here than in most other locations. Even so, there is the traditional backpacker area at the north end of the promenade, centered on the popular Mut Mee Guesthouse, and a newer area at the south end of the promenade as well.

There is decent enough nightlife along the promenade and at a good variety of expat-owned bars, including a string called Sunset Strip, located about 2 km south of the immigration pier. There is also a lively section of night-time noodle carts on one of the streets a few blocks inland from the river, and a happening local restaurant/club scene along the riverfront between the promenade and the Sunset Strip, but otherwise the sidewalks come in early in this still sleeply Thai town.

The Nagarina boat continues to make its nightly sunset cruise on the Mekong from the pier near the Mut Mee with departures at 5 pm-ish for 100 baht per person.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By exacto (dabbler)
Written on 17th February, 2010 after a visit to Nong Khai in January, 2010

Also reviewed by exacto: Champasak, Chiang Mai, Kamphaeng Phet, Ko Maak, Lopburi, Mukdahan, Nakhon Ratchasima, Pakse, Phitsanulok, Savannakhet,

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