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Nong Khai

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The long and narrow province of Nong Khai caps the top of northeast Thailand, serving as a buffer between central Isaan and Laos. For many, it acts as the primary gateway to Thailand’s northern neighbour. Bordered by the Mekong river along its entire northern edge, the province has some stunning scenery and history, as well as a succession of interesting villages and small towns running along the riverside.

As with most of the cities and provinces along both banks of the Mekong, Nong Khai has historically been passed back and forth between the controls of opposing forces, most notably the Ayutthaya kingdom in Thailand and the Lan Xang kingdom of Laos. Indeed, much of the province’s culture and population originated in Laos, thanks in part more recently to an influx of Laotian royalists and refugees during the Communist takeover of the still-developing country in the 1970s. However, the relationship between Thailand and Laos today is largely focused on cooperation, and the area has seen great progress toward stability and prosperity in recent decades.

It was through Nong Khai that the first land crossing to Laos was opened for foreigners via the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, which was completed in 1994. Although there are more and more travel options available to the Laos-bound voyager today, many still choose to go via Nong Khai. Its proximity to the border and the Thai embassy in Vientiane makes it the perfect destination to while away the last days allowed to you on your Thai visa before heading across the river for some Lao adventures (or simply to top-up your Thai visa account and have another go at it).

Look through any guesthouse ledger in the provincial capital of Nong Khai and you'll see the same names repeated again and again, as people find themselves drawn here repeatedly, and often for a lot longer than they planned. With a collection of excellent places to stay, comprehensive and convenient transportation, and many alluring attractions, Nong Khai is a choice destination for both foreign and Thai tourists. While the town itself is definitively urban, the atmosphere is quite laidback, even tame -- much more so than Vientiane -- and makes for an excellent low-cost destination for a family trip or relaxing getaway.

Nong Khai is best viewed from the seat of a bicycle, and one can easily get from one end of town to the other many times over in the span of a day. There are enough temples and chedis here to keep even the most avid wat-aholic happy, including historically significant Wat Po Chai, the curiously unique sunken chedi of Wat Phra That, and the prolifically outlandish Wat Sala Kaew Ku. Along the riverfront you will find restaurants and shops, along with Tha Sadej market, where visitors can spend hours sorting through an endless succession of inexpensive wears and delicious local specialty foods. All you need to do is sit back, enjoy the ride and embrace the somnolent pace of this border town.


Orientation
Like the province, the town is long and thin, with most of the guesthouses clustered around the western end of town and a selection of restaurants nearby. The main thoroughfares through town are Meechai Road (small and closest to the river), Prajak Road (a bit busier) and Highway 212 (a full, multi-lane highway), all running approximately parallel through most of the city.

If you find yourself in need of medical assistance, Nong Khai Hospital is located on Meechai Road just west of the Haisoke intersection, and directly across the street from the police station. If you need the tourist police, go to the Prajak-Mittaphab Road intersection just a block away from the main police station.

Many Thai banks and petrol stations can be found scattered about Prajak Road, with most boasting ATMs. Meechai Road also hosts a few banks, as well as the Nong Khai post office, which can be found across the street from what is essentially the centre access lane for Tha Sadej market. Internet cafes are on both roads -- we liked the charm and prices at Mama’s Guesthouse on Meechai.

The bus station can be found on Prajak Road next door to Wat Po Chai and the tourist-minded Po Chai market. If you’re staying in town it’s most likely walking distance.

The train station is a bit outside of the downtown area, just west and on the far side of the 212 highway. Walking there is probably not your best bet, but it is fairly easy to find if you have your own transportation.

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Accommodation: Nong Khai
Baan Mae Rim Nam | Esan Guesthouse | Khiangkhong Guesthouse | Mama’s Place Guesthouse | Mekong Guesthouse | Mutmee Guesthouse | Pantawee Hotel | Rimkhong Guesthouse | Ruan Thai Guesthouse | Sawasdee Guesthouse |



Text and/or map last updated on 4th January, 2012.

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