Ubon Ratchathani

Isan's second largest province (after Nakhon Ratchasima), Ubon Ratchathani province is bordered to the south by Cambodia and to the east by Laos, making it part of the so-called Emerald Triangle -- the forested (and well-mined) meeting point of Thailand, Cambodia and Laos. Ubon (as it is commonly known) is home to an eclectic mix of ethnicities, including Khmer, Laotians, Vietnamese and Thais who above all else have created an excellent food scene -- foodies will enjoy Ubon.

Ever since the Chong Mek/Vang Tao border crossing with Laos opened, there has been a steadily increasing trickle of tourists and independent travellers passing through Ubon. Before this border with southern Laos opened, Ubon Ratchathani was best known amongst those looking to practice their meditation with a few very well regarded forest wats in the province. Today, despite the fact that the province has a lot to offer independent travellers, the vast majority see Ubon Ratchathani as nothing more than an overnight stop en route to southern Laos.

Aside from the provincial capital, a range of national parks, including the impressive Pha Taem National Park stretch across the province and there is an ample supply of pleasant riverside options to lose a day or two. Best explored at leisure on a hired motorcycle, most of the main attractions can also be reached by public transport.

Although the paddy scenery by road can be monotonously flat -- lush green when irrigated and straw yellow when not -- hills to the east leading to the Mekong and to the south, where the watershed forms the border with Cambodia, makes for some spectacular views.

Although Si Saket is closer, it is possible to visit the spectacular Khmer ruins of Prasat Khao Phra Viharn from Ubon Ratchathani.

Every July, Ubon Ratchathani hosts the Candle Festival -- a parade of huge, finely-carved candles. While the candle festival is most popular with Thais it is still well worth a peek if you're in the area.

The capital, Ubon Ratchathani (Royal City of the Lotus) sits towards the western side of the same-named province. Once a centre for Dvaravati and Khmer cultures, today this bustling city is the trading and communications hub of eastern I-san. To the casual visitor, it may appear to be nothing more than a scaled down version of Bangkok -- traffic included -- but get off the main drag, away from the fast food joints and mobile-phone stores and you'll find old style I-san.

Ubon Ratchathani has a well regarded reputation as a religious teaching centre and this is reflected in a number of highly revered forest wats which specialise in meditation and are dotted through the province.

Aside from these there are a handful of typical (and not-so-typical) Thai wats in the centre of Ubon Ratchathani that are easily visited along with a well-presented museum.

Between the various sights, be sure to sample some of Ubon's excellent food and drinks, with a great selection of tasty restaurants and bars to indulge your taste buds and senses.

The reasonable range of attractions dotted around the province also make Ubon Ratchathani an excellent base for exploring the hinterland.

Ubon is actually a twin city, with the smaller town of Warim Chamrap a couple of kilometres to the south of the Moon River while Ubon Ratchathani is immediately to the north of the river.