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Chiang Mai

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In a nutshell

Get out and about on foot to explore dozens of old Buddhist temples. Bargain hard at the night market. Tuck into khao soi and other Northern Thai cuisine. Go further afield on an organised trek. Get your muscles soothed at a traditional herbal spa.

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Thailand's northern capital, Chiang Mai is Thailand's second most-visited city, yet in terms of size it does not remotely compare to Bangkok. With its smaller size and population, Chiang Mai has a lot in its favour for tourists and travellers alike, with the centre of town packed with glittering wats, excellent restaurants and expansive shopping markets all of which are easily taken in on foot.

If Thai temples are your thing, then Chiang Mai has a lot to offer -- the hill-top Wat Doi Suthep is the crown jewels of a vivid collection of traditional Thai temples -- so popular in fact that one of Chiang Mai's most luxurious hotels (with some controversy) modelled itself on one.

Home to the prestigious Chiang Mai University, the city has quite a cosmopolitan feel to it with a lively entertainment scene and some of the best eating in northern Thailand -- this is not a town you'll go hungry in.


But most foreign holiday-makers find themselves in Chiang Mai not for the temples nor the food, nor even the entertainment scene, but rather for the hill-tribe trekking. For decades Chiang Mai has formed the trekking base of northern Thailand -- and while there are some excellent tour companies in the city, there remain a number of shoddy operators -- be sure to do your research before heading into the hinterland. Many travellers are now opting to commence their treks further afield in Mae Hong Son, Pai or Soppong (amongst others) where the tourist numbers are lower and the perceived experience more "authentic".

Our recommendations

Where to start? Do the trip up to Doi Suthep. Do the night market, which is touristy, but for a reason: There are some cracking deals to be had. Chiang Mai has hundreds of wats, but to the casual visitor for whom wat fatigue quickly sets in.

Chiang Mai has fabulous eating, but to see why, start your day at the fresh produce market (some of the cooking schools work this into their packages). There's also good nightlife -- you'll find the most farang orientated entertainment around the centre of town and along the Ping River. Locals tend more towards east Chang Mai (Nimmanhaemin Rd area) and to the north of town. Chiang Maians are a friendly lot -- if you want to check out the local scene, ask your guesthouse staff when they knock off and hit the town with them. Chiang Mai can be a lot of fun in the evening (and early morning).

Regarding trekking, if you've got the time, you'll almost certainly have a more "authentic" (whatever that means) experience trekking from a less central location such as Mae Hong Son, Pai, Chiang Rai or Nan. But if you're set on trekking from Chiang Mai, then do so for as many days as you can afford -- three days at a minimum we'd say.



Text and/or map last updated on 5th September, 2010.

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