Mae Salong
Travel Guide
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This small town is unlike any other you are likely to see in Thailand. Originally settled by KMT fugitives who were chased out of Burma, the town feels like it would be better placed in North Vietnam, Northern Laos or even China. Night classes held here to teach the adult population Thai is an indication of just how un-Thai the town is.
Ancient looking KMT combatants can still be seen on horseback in their uniforms, whilst Akha ladies flock into town to sell their wares and pick up a few necessities. Several Akha villages are within easy walking distance of town. Doi Mae Salong was very isolated until recently and was a pretty wild place by all accounts. Nearby Ban Hin Taek was a major Shan United Army (SUA) base until Khun Sa's forces were finally forced into Burma.
Off limits is probably a better description than isolated since the KMT and SUA had frequent and violent struggles over the opium trade with the Thai government forces who were struggling to exercise some sort of control over the area. Once the SUA was finally ousted, remaining KMT units were offered refugee status in Thailand in return for agreeing to cut out their opium trade.
The Thai government has made an important effort to 'civilise' the area and has introduced a variety of crop substitution programmes, principally tea and fruits which now cover many of the surrounding hillsides. A variety of locally grown products are sold in stalls around the town, the tea (a variety of Formosa Oolong) is highly regarded and there are also a range of herb and insect flavoured local liquors. Most stalls and shops will allow you to taste them - try the one with the giant centipede in it, it is excellent and just what you may well need to warm you up during the cold winter nights.
Doi Mae Salong stretches over a mountain crest. The mist, which normally disappears by mid morning, can hang around all day. Surprisingly, Mae Salong has several large, new and very expensive up-market resorts which seem to filling up with Taiwanese tourists. Perhaps they are catching up with their old KMT mates or perhaps they are all just Formosa Tea Sales Representatives, but what ever it is, Mae Salong is becoming a very popular place to visit amongst the more well heeled.
Set up in the hills to the northwest of Chiang Rai, it is an ideal retreat for those wanting to escape the heat and the tourists. Trekking around here is good and ask at Shinsane Guesthouse for present conditions and any possible no go areas. Most of the trekking in the area is the do it yourself variety but some organised trekking and pony trekking (400B per day) is available at both Shinsane and Akha Mae Salong Guesthouse.
Text and/or map last updated on 11th August, 2009.
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Mae Salong reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
A little China with some hill tribes thrown in
We only stayed in Mae Salong for one night, but it is a nice place and we had a very lovely time there! It is hilly and a bit spread out along the main road with a bunch of guest houses, coffee houses and places to eat. You can definitely see that the town in more Chinese than Thai. The people look different, the restaurants look different, but in a good way! The best part are the views from the surrounding hills, especially from the chedi above town on the hilltop. You can walk there, but the views from the road are fantastic, so rent a motorbike and ride right to the top!
Visit the morning market and have breakfast there. We tried the sweet rice with coconut (to go wrapped in a banana leaf) and soy milk with fried doughy things, and bought some great fruit. The girls selling the soy milk were very friendly. Didn't speak much English, but just kept smiling at us! Sit down there with your food and just watch the women from the numerous nearby tribes (some in traditional clothing) sell their produce, and then walk back to their villages.
You will see all the children going home from school in the afternoon, walking alongside the road. So cute!
If you have motorbikes, it is possible to take some back roads out of the town that take you past (or through) so many villages, it is a very interesting experience and the scenery is really cool.
The horse trekking at Shin Sane now costs 500 baht and takes you to 3-4 villages in about 3 hours, with a person walking beside you holding your horse. We did not take the tour, since it didn't sound that appealing, but there really are so many villages in close distance that you can easily do the walk yourself.
By brambora (dabbler)
Written on 25th November, 2011 after a visit to Mae Salong in November, 2011
A Lot of Tea, Not as Many Smiles
Mae Salong is a beautiful town, hidden away from the rest of the country in one of the many nooks and/or crannies of the Northern hills. The drive up was half the joy of it, and is one main aspect that would definitely entice me back. The town is fairly straightforward to get around, with several very affordable accommodation right along the main road.
There wasn’t a great deal to do, but there were some beautiful temples, affordable treks, and easy access to nearby hill tribes, though we felt a bit less welcome visiting the villages than we are used to. In fact, this was true for the area in general; we’ve come to expect our friendly smiles to be returned, but this was rarely the case in Mae Salong, possibly a byproduct of their historic relationship with outsiders, who generally were trying (and eventually succeeded) to alter their way of life/agricultural choices. Regardless, I definitely enjoyed the town and the tea, and would definitely recommend a visit to anyone in or around Chiang Rai with a bit of time and motivation. Think of it as a trip to Southern China without the plane flight or visa hassle!
By KhowNeow11 (dabbler)
Written on 22nd September, 2011 after a visit to Mae Salong in August, 2011
Also reviewed by KhowNeow11: Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son, Mae Sariang, Pai,