The provincial capital Kamphaeng Phet is split into the new city, which is a fairly typical central Thai city and the old city, encircled by the original walls, which is home to the historical park. During your visit, you'll most likely sleep and eat in the new city but spend most of the rest of your time in the old.

The modern town is characterised by concrete egg-carton architecture facing onto a surprisingly pretty and well maintained riverfront area. There's plenty of eating options and a fair range of hotels -- including an excellent guesthouse. Be sure to try the night market, and if you've always wanted to try a silkworm or grasshopper-topped pizza, then you're in the right place.

A half-day to a day would allow you to see all the main historical sites within town, but as Kamphaeng Phet is also a handy base from which to visit Khlong Lan National Park (some 60km away) some travellers linger longer.

Ruins aside, take a walk along the river's edge, cycle around town and just soak up the small town atmosphere. Be sure to swing by Triple J Guest House during your time in Kamphaeng Phet -- they've got enough information to keep you exploring the province for ages.