Mae Hong Son
Travel Guide
Remote Mae Hong Son town, provincial capital of the remote eponymous province, is just a few kilometres from the Burmese border in Thailand's far northwest. The town is barely larger than Pai, thanks to the tourism boom there, and Mae Hong Son certainly has far fewer foreign tourists. A few more government buildings may be around and more cars zip along the roads, but Mae Hong Son has an even more laid back feel to it than its busier neighbour down the road. (On the surprisingly accurate Travelfish 7-Eleven scale of importance, both are mere two outlet towns!)
Whether you go for bustle or laid back, Mae Hong Son is definitely a more attractive town than Pai. The valley is much narrower, with barely enough room for the town and its airport as steep forested hills crowd in from every direction. The lake is an attractive feature in the centre of town and makes for a good evening stroll or picnic spot while several attractive Shan-style temples dot the town and overlooking hills. Plenty of old teak buildings still stand and unusually for a Thai provincial capital, there's a total lack of high rise. An incongruous four-lane ring road now mars the suburbs somewhat, but it's apparently part of a future scheme to connect Chiang Mai and Pai directly with Delhi or Tel Aviv or somewhere or another.
The population of Mae Hong Son is still largely Shan, an ethnic group inhabiting this whole northwest corner of Thailand which buts into Shan state over the border in Burma. A large number of northern Thais also live here, after arriving when the province was opened up in the 1980s with the completion of a sealed road from Chiang Mai and the regional airport.
The initial road hacked through the jungles and mountains was built by the Japanese during World War II, when Mae Hong Son was a forward staging post for the planned invasion of Burma. The completion of the sealed road brought under government control this formerly inaccessible, wild border region, which up until then had been under the domination of Shan and Kuomintang opium-funded armies. As with Pai, the newly tamed area was then swiftly opened up to tourists in search of remote and adventurous destinations for trekking.
The locals in Mae Hong Son, while friendly and polite, tend to be shyer and more reserved than Thais in other regions, adding to the very laid back feel to the place. The nouveau hippy ex-Chatuchak market crowd and the retired-from-Samui-because-it's-too-commercialised set seem to have all stopped in Pai, nor do you see in Mae Hong Song the mass of expats married to locals running bars and guesthouses. The numerous long-stay backpackers of Pai are also missing, meaning Mae Hong Son is bereft of the scene you get there -- no nightly parties and no New Age accoutrements.
Mae Hong Son is still very popular with Thais, particularly in winter (November to January), when the province is frequently the coolest in the kingdom, getting down to zero degrees Celsius in the mountains. (It's generally one of the hottest in summer, from March to May). Only a minority of foreign tourists plus fairly plentiful organised tour groups make it up this way.
For Thais the attraction is the remoteness and cool weather, while for foreigners it tends to be because-it's-there -- Mae Hong Son is the final stop for those wanting to just continue to the end of the road. There is some great scenery up here, as there is all over north Thailand, and there is some decent trekking, particularly to the east of Mae Hong Son town. With enough time you can make a good loop from Chiang Mai to Pai and Mae Hong Son, then back to Chiang Mai via Mae Sariang.
Mae Hong Son's foremost attraction these days are the human zoos known as "Long-neck villages". Villages of Karenni refuges from Burma, with the women wearing rings around their necks, are now de rigueur on any trekking itinerary. Whether or not to visit is a complex issue, which we discuss a little more here. A recent blow to Mae Hong Son has been the relocation of a Long-neck village to Chiang Mai province, so expect another one to be relocated to that vacant block behind Sukhumvit Soi 17 any time soon. If it's other hill tribes you're after, then Soppong is better. Most villages around Mae Hong Son are populated with Karen refuges, who tend not to wear traditional clothing as much, while members of the Lisu and Lahu groups are scarce.
Related reading
Trekking in Thailand
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Accommodation: Mae Hong Son
Baiyoke Chalet |
Friend House |
Imperial Tara Mae Hong Son Hotel |
Jongkham Guest House |
Jongkham Place |
Mae Hong Son Mountain Inn and Resort |
Ngamta Hotel |
Palm House |
Panorama Hotel |
Piya Guest House |
Princes Guesthouse |
The Residence |
Accommodation: Outskirts of town
Ban Rim Pai |
Fern Resort |
Lintfah Camping |
Mae Hong Son Guest House |
Mae Nam Guesthouse |
Maehongson Resort |
Pana Huts |
Rim Nam Klang Doi Resort |
Sang Tong Huts |
Tham Pla Forest Park Camping |
Text and/or map last updated on 3rd September, 2009.
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Mae Hong Son reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Two days in Mae Hong Son
The travel guide above does a great job of describing Mae Hong Son, so I will simply add my own thoughts and experience.
This town was fairly relaxed and quiet during my time there, but I hear it is a major Thai tourist destination, so I would advise avoiding the place on weekends and Thai holidays.
ACCOMMODATION:
I stayed at Jongkham Place (as opposed to Jongkham Guest House) and it was great. The bungalow was spacious and clean and had decent WiFi, air-con (which I definite didn't need), and very hot water in the shower (which is always nice on a cold morning). It cost me 700 baht a night which is more than I usually spend, but it was worth it.
------------
FOOD:
I mostly ate at three spots:
First is the night market which had typical street food that was only "ok".
Second is "Ji Ji Restaurant" which is at the crossroad of Niwet Phisan and Chamnan Sathit (about a block east from PJ Motorbike Rentals on the same street). Ji Ji's had decent prices, a diverse selection of random stuff including thai and other random ethnic stuff like samosas, vegetable tempura, etc, as well as some western food. They also had a vegetarian section in the menu.
Third is the vegetarian restaurant (not sure what the name is since it was in Thai) on Phanich Wattana street about a block east of the market near where the street ends and right around the corner from the TAT office. It is mostly geared towards Thais, but has english on the menu and the woman (who is very nice) speaks a few words of english. It is 100% veggie (ahan jay) and prices are good. Look for a yellow sign that says "Vegetarian". As with most "ahan jay" restaurants, I assume it closes somewhat early. Expect to have fake soy meat in pretty much everything. :)
Overall, I was never able to find an affordable restaurant that I really liked, but the above options were decent.
------------
SIGHTS:
My favourite thing to do was watch sunrise and sunset from Wat PhraThat Doi Kong Mu, especially on the mornings where mist covered the valley.
I also rented a motorbike and checked out Fish Cave which was not so great unless you really like looking at fish. It's not really a cave that you can go into, it's just a cave like hole in the ground with a bunch of fish in it. I got some good fish pictures and had a nice stroll, but otherwise it was a bit dull and overrun by hordes of Thai tourists. It is definitely not worth the 100 baht entrance, but I guess its worth checking out if you have low expectations and don't care about the money. It was especially aggravating to see the Thai tourists paying only 20 baht, which is what I think the place is really worth. If you are looking for a real cave, there is one right around the corner from "Fish Cave" which requires an hour hike to access, but I can't comment on it because I didn't have time to check it out (and its hard to find with no tourist signs posted, etc).
I also rode over to Pha Seau Waterfall which wasn't very impressive, but it was free so I can't really complain. I imagine it would be nicer during the rainy season since it was really more of a trickle right now (January).
Lastly, I enjoyed wandering around the market, especially in the morning right after sunrise when its really bustling.
By shawnstorm (dabbler)
Written on 28th January, 2013 after a visit to Mae Hong Son in January, 2013
Also reviewed by shawnstorm: Chom Thong, Phetburi,
Mae Hong Son - Elephants and Mists
As with Pai, I have been visiting Pai on a regular basis since my first encounter with the town on New Years Eve 2003.
This is one place where I would happily live.
The town is on a human scale, the people are fantastically friendly and warm, the local district is beautiful and full of little gems of nature, and the temples - although generally small - are well cared for and a delight.
Added to that are some fantastic eating places, well-hidden fun bars (they don't normally have tourists . . . the locals seem to have kept the best for themselves), an intriguing (if not always confirmed) history, and a mingling of Thai, Shan, Lanna and Burmese cultures.
Getting out of town and exploring the surrounding area is essential - there are so many places of stunning beauty as well as the documented 'points of interest' such as Tham Bplah (the 'Fish Cave') Tham Lot (the 'Coffin Caves'), Nam Dtok Pha Sua, Khun Yaum National Park . . . . The list goes on and on.
Plus - for those who hire a bike or car to take the northern stretch of Route 1095 from Chiang Mai - one of the most enjoyable rides/drives to be had anywhere in the world (unless it is raining, in which case it gets a bit too exciting at times . . . . ).
By brujahwolf (dabbler)
Written on 25th November, 2011 after a visit to Mae Hong Son in June, 2011
Also reviewed by brujahwolf: Pai,
Daytrip Paradise, Plus a Lake to Boot
I spent only a couple nights in Mae Hong Son, but it was everything I hoped it would be. The town is spread out but tranquil, with a satisfying mix of bustle and boredom. While the town itself is beautiful, the real excitement and intrigue of the place for me comes from its surrounding topography and attractions.
My friends and I rented motorbikes and hit the road, and had an incredible day despite fairly consistent bouts of rain and general dreariness. In just one day, we saw the Fish Cave (interesting enough, but better see something in addition to the fish to make it worth the trip), waterfalls, a monk’s home in the side of a cliff, 2 separate “Royal Projects”, a genuine Karen village (sans government-funded longnecks), and the Chinese-settled village of Ban Rak Thai. The province of Mae Hong Son is a magical one to be sure, and the city itself is an excellent departure point for seeing it all.
My only complaints would be the scarcity of truly decent inexpensive lodging, and occasional difficulty finding a delicious, cheap meal, which I find hard to believe even as I write it, given where we are in the world… The locals are a bit more standoffish than most in Northern Thailand, but not impolite. All in all a fantastic place to go in order to see what is surely one of the most amazing provinces in the country.
By KhowNeow11 (dabbler)
Written on 21st September, 2011 after a visit to Mae Hong Son in July, 2011
Also reviewed by KhowNeow11: Chiang Mai, Mae Salong, Mae Sariang, Pai,