In peak season, Mae Hong Son is one of the main tourist magnets in northern Thailand after Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. Thanks to its ease of access -- courtesy of being just a short flight from Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son is a particular favourite amongst large tour groups.

The tour groups flock here for reasons aside from the airport though -- Mae Hong Son is a pretty, well-situated town, with an ample supply of fine guesthouses and hotels and is an excellent staging point for those planning to explore the surrounding hinterland.

Historically, Mae Hong Son has been controlled by various ethnic groups and this is reflected in the cosmopolitan make-up of the people living here today. The town is predominantly Shan, and you'll notice many of the signs are written in their script, which uses a circular script like Burmese, in addition to Thai. Many of the locals speak Shan or northern Thai dialect. Other Shan influences can be seen in both the wats by Jong Kham lake and the striking flavours of the curries you'll pick up in the market.

The villages surrounding Mae Hong Son though are primarily Lisu, Lahu and Karen -- and it's these people you'll run into should you decide to go trekking from Mae Hong Son. It's as a trekking centre that Mae Hong Son earns much of its fame and there's a full complement of trekking possibilities -- from a half day wander through to three and four day foot expeditions to as far afield as Pai -- and further!

Mae Hong Son is best visited following the end of the wet season in late October. During this dry, cool season, running from November through to February, the landscapes are lush and the air fairly clear. Temperatures are cool to temperate, with night-times often downright cold, making a sweater or jacket an asset. Once the weather starts to warm up in March to April the annual burn begins, when farmers burn back the rice stubble to prepare for new crops. Across the entire region the landscape is bathed in heavy smoke, making for crummy photos and general unpleasantness. The smoke stays till the wet season, commencing in late May or early June and running till October, washes it all away. Until then, the trekking drops off a bit -- mainly due to low numbers -- after all, aside from leeches, who wants to hang out in the woods in the wet?

In March or April, Shan villages in the province celebrate Poi Sang Long, when boys are ordained in an elaborate ceremony involving them being dressed in brightly-coloured clothes and make-up, and being paraded through their village on the shoulders of male relatives.

Orientation
For a provincial capital, Mae Hong Son is a small town, and the bulk of its attractions are within easy walking distance of Jong Kham Lake.

All major Thai banks have a branch office and there's no shortage of international access ATMs here.

Should you have a problem, you'll find the tourist police at the intersection of Sinahanat Bamrung and the road that runs from lakeside to the airport. For medical care, head straight to the hospital at the far eastern end of Sinahanat Bamrung Rd.

The TAT have an office in Mae Hong Son and you'll find it Khunlum Paraphat Rd near the base of Doi Kung Mu. The main Post Office is opposite the TAT.

Internet cafes are dotted around town -- we liked Sunflower Cafe's the best.