Once a gorgeous sleepy town, Pai, while still pretty gorgeous, is well and truly on the traveller's road-map through northern Thailand.

The town was originally popularised as a rest-stop on what was once a far more gruelling bus trip from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. Over time the town, nestled in a very pretty valley, developed into a destination in its own right, with travellers attracted by the bucolic scenery and what has developed into a wealth of outdoor activities.

Unlike Chiang Mai and, to a lesser extent, Mae Hong Son, Pai doesn't have much to see in the traditional sense of sightseeing, rather people come to either just hang out and bide their time, or to explore the hinterland. There's a plethora of activities are available, including exploring the countryside by foot, motorbike, elephant or bamboo raft. The mountainous scenery and proximity to the Burmese border has seen several ethnic minority groups settle in the area and these villages are often visited by the treks striking out from Pai -- as are some of the surrounding waterfalls. In more recent years white-water rafting has become popular -- it's possible to raft almost all of the way to Mae Hong Son.

Outdoor activities aside, Pai has also developed a strong new age scene. There's a healthy organic foods industry and there's all manner of holistic courses on offer. Yoga courses and classes, Thai cooking schools and a near endless range of massage and spa treatments all vie for your rest and relaxation needs.

One interesting side effect of its growing popularity has been the interest the Thai creative set has taken in the area. Bangkokians have bought up land and built either resorts or personal homes in an attempt to recreate what they feel has been lost in the larger urban centres in Thailand and it makes for an eclectic scene.

This community that has developed around a growing number of artistically-minded Thais and foreigners who call Pai home has created a vibe quite unlike anything else in Thailand. People visit Pai once and find themselves returning over and over again, and an increasing minority are choosing to stay.

Of course, sitting around campfires with a bunch of other backpackers isn't for everyone and Pai has its fair share of detractors -- many of whom consider it nothing more than an over-touristed ghetto. But in our opinion that's a bit of a harsh inditement -- the town retains a lively and very active Thai set, and one that is far more involved in the scene than in many other parts of Thailand.

Despite all this, Pai remains a small town and in peak season, it can be packed to capacity with travellers of all nationalities. Things can get very cramped, and, well, a bit like an over-touristed ghetto. So pick your timing carefully and try to sample Pai outside of the peak season if possible.

In 2005 Pai was decimated by flash floods which washed away entire riverside resorts. Flooding in the wet season remains a threat, but the 2005 floods have been the worst in recent memory. If you're opting for a riverside shack in wet season, it's a good idea to opt for a sturdy one.

Orientation
Pai has at least two ATMs in town. One is in front of Duang's Guesthouse, opposite the bus station, the other is around the corner, attached to Krung Thai Bank on Rungsiyon Rd. Inside the bank there is a full exchange service, open from 08:30 until 16:30 except on weekends and holidays. Many guesthouses also offer exchange services.

Internet cafes dot town and a small, but growing number of cafes and guesthouses offer WiFi services -- sometimes complementary.

The post office is a bit of a walk from the centre of things, towards the southern end of Khetkalang Rd.

There's a small hospital at the western end of town on Chaisongkhram Rd.