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Pai
Once a gorgeous sleepy town, Pai, while still pretty gorgeous, is well and truly on the traveller's road-map through northern Thailand.
The town was originally popularised as a rest-stop on what was once a far more gruelling bus trip from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. Over time the town, nestled in a very pretty valley, developed into a destination in its own right, with travellers attracted by the bucolic scenery and what has developed into a wealth of outdoor activities.
Unlike Chiang Mai and, to a lesser extent, Mae Hong Son, Pai doesn't have much to see in the traditional sense of sightseeing, rather people come to either just hang out and bide their time, or to explore the hinterland. There's a plethora of activities are available, including exploring the countryside by foot, motorbike, elephant or bamboo raft. The mountainous scenery and proximity to the Burmese border has seen several ethnic minority groups settle in the area and these villages are often visited by the treks striking out from Pai -- as are some of the surrounding waterfalls. In more recent years white-water rafting has become popular -- it's possible to raft almost all of the way to Mae Hong Son.
Outdoor activities aside, Pai has also developed a strong new age scene. There's a healthy organic foods industry and there's all manner of holistic courses on offer. Yoga courses and classes, Thai cooking schools and a near endless range of massage and spa treatments all vie for your rest and relaxation needs.
One interesting side effect of its growing popularity has been the interest the Thai creative set has taken in the area. Bangkokians have bought up land and built either resorts or personal homes in an attempt to recreate what they feel has been lost in the larger urban centres in Thailand and it makes for an eclectic scene.
This community that has developed around a growing number of artistically-minded Thais and foreigners who call Pai home has created a vibe quite unlike anything else in Thailand. People visit Pai once and find themselves returning over and over again, and an increasing minority are choosing to stay.
Of course, sitting around campfires with a bunch of other backpackers isn't for everyone and Pai has its fair share of detractors -- many of whom consider it nothing more than an over-touristed ghetto. But in our opinion that's a bit of a harsh inditement -- the town retains a lively and very active Thai set, and one that is far more involved in the scene than in many other parts of Thailand.
Despite all this, Pai remains a small town and in peak season, it can be packed to capacity with travellers of all nationalities. Things can get very cramped, and, well, a bit like an over-touristed ghetto. So pick your timing carefully and try to sample Pai outside of the peak season if possible.
In 2005 Pai was decimated by flash floods which washed away entire riverside resorts. Flooding in the wet season remains a threat, but the 2005 floods have been the worst in recent memory. If you're opting for a riverside shack in wet season, it's a good idea to opt for a sturdy one.
Orientation
Pai has at least two ATMs in town. One is in front of Duang's Guesthouse, opposite the bus station, the other is around the corner, attached to Krung Thai Bank on Rungsiyon Rd. Inside the bank there is a full exchange service, open from 08:30 until 16:30 except on weekends and holidays. Many guesthouses also offer exchange services.
Internet cafes dot town and a small, but growing number of cafes and guesthouses offer WiFi services -- sometimes complementary.
The post office is a bit of a walk from the centre of things, towards the southern end of Khetkalang Rd.
There's a small hospital at the western end of town on Chaisongkhram Rd.
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Pai reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
By BruceMoon (dabbler - 4 reviews)
Written on 9th June, 2009 after a visit to Pai in ,
Pai has incurred some unjustified flack over recent years. Maybe it's time to reconsider Pai as the great destination that it is.
As is widely known, Pai was a hippie hang out. But, no more. As described above, the days of hippie's and other off the wall stuff have long gone. As the dialogue above describes, the town has developed well into an arts locale and new age 'scene' (or is it culture?). Faced with the full-on commercialism of Chiang Mai Pai, this less-commercial relaxedness is a major part of the reason why Pai has appeal.
Unlike Mae Hong Song (or similar towns), Pai is not a town primarily servicing the surrounding villages, and somewhat catering to tourists. Rather, Pai is much more focussed on tourist needs (and somewhat caters to surrounding locals). And, the charming locals of Pai do a good job of servicing tourist needs in a way that is laid back. I found touts selling whatever to be nicely absent.
Most towns servicing the wider community have a city centre (of some sort or another). Pai has no city centre with the obligatory business, rather, the town is quite spread out. This also means that wheels are almost a necessity (at my stage of life, its motorised wheels!). At night, the pub scene is great and the (usual) offerings of music mean that its likely you won't stop at the one place all night (again, wheels).
In some respects, the 'centre' of Pai is not the shopped streets, but the river. For here all sorts of activities abound.
One often overlooked activity of Pai - and hardly available elsewhere - is the river stroll on an elephant. Located some clicks from town, the originator - 'Thoms' - has competition. But, all seek to take the paying passenger (rider?) bare-back into the river. There, the passenger/s are sprayed with trunk water, slid sideways into the water, and exposed to all sorts of other elephantantics. To be in the river with an elephant - where it is in enjoyment - is far more enjoyable than merely being carted across the landscape.
Perhaps the main reason why Pai is an attractive tourist town is that it does have so many activities on offer, it is a reasonable example of a rural Thai town, it does cater well to & for the tourist, and importantly, it usually does not appear like a tourist hotspot.
If you are looking for the undisturbed, untouristed Thai town, Pai isn't it! But, if you want to see an less than full-on commercial rural Thai town, but with a host of activities to entertain, and a good choice of accommodation and food options, then Pai will certainly attract.
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Why I chose the numbers...
Sights & activities: while each may not be the best available in Thailand, the host of offerings puts it 'up there'.
History & culture: Not much history evident, but the art & laid back culture boosts the ranking.
Scenery & environment: Like nearly all of Thailand, the environment is largely modified. But, there is plenty of vegetated scenery and in some places, the environment is 'there'.
Eat & drink: It's not Bangkok, but as a rural town, it has pretty much everything (including a good pub & music scene).
Traveller scene: Either you like being in a tourist town, or you don't. If remoteness & lack of tourists is your thing - too bad. If entertainment is the number, then you'll be heartened.
Romance: I'm 60+, I'm afraid I've lost the measure!!!
Value for money: depends, it's touristy, so its not cheap!
I'll be back or not: After I've visited everywhere else in the world, I'll definitely be back!
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