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Nan

Travel Guide

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The province of Nan is rural, with rice and fruit cultivation spread across the wide Nan river valley and high mountains to the east and west, where a large hilltribe population dwells. Yao are particularly prominent -- you'll probably see some in the city market -- as are Hmong, N'tin and Khamu, the latter two groups being encountered in Thailand almost exclusively in Nan province.

Like Phrae to the south, was an independent city-state for much of its early existence, making up part of the Lanna federation, and was only incorporated into Thailand at the beginning of the 20th century. Today the same-named provincial capital, Nan, is a fairly typical provincial city with a vast, interesting history, some impressive wats and a very good museum to support it.

Outside the capital, the spectacular Doi Phukha National Park in the northeast of the province has stunning peaks reaching up to almost 2,000 m and, and, being just one of the six national parks in the province, demonstrates the potential of Nan. Despite this, Nan has stubbornly remained off the usual backpacker's itinerary, so you can trek here knowing that you are one of the few savvy travellers around.

The city itself is small and laid-back, and is ideally explored on foot during the cooler hours of the day. It has a pleasant riverfront area and some quite good restaurants and bars. The centre of town is a little back from the riverfront with most of the services between the market (near the river) and the museum. You'll find midrange accommodation near the market, while two of the better guesthouses are between the museum and the bus station.


Nan bills itself as an alternative trekking centre, in particular offering trips in which you can visit the Mlabri tribe -- a nomadic ethnic group only really found in Nan and Phrae provinces. Treks are also available to Mae Charim National Park which may include a rafting section. Fhu Travel is the best operator in town, though note that trekking in Nan is more expensive than elsewhere in Thailand, exacerbated by the generally low number of travellers in town -- be prepared to pay more and perhaps compromise to get a group together.

If you're about in October, the city is packed for the annual Nan boat races.

Orientation
As in most large Thai towns, international access ATMs are scattered throughout town. Many of the guesthouses and hotels offer free WiFi, but if you luck out there are a couple of small internet cafes cum games centres between the market and the river.

The TAT has an office opposite Wat Phumin and while they'll toss you a map we found them to be otherwise totally unhelpful.

The bus station is towards the eastern end of town, about a ten minute walk from the closest guesthouses.

Related reading

Trekking in Thailand
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Text and/or map last updated on 1st February, 2012.

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