Phayao

Lying between Chiang Mai and Nan provinces and due south of Chiang Rai, Phayao province is split between lowland rice growing areas and mountains containing substantial hilltribe populations.

The province was administratively separated from Chiang Rai in 1977 but further back in Thai history it was an autonomous city-state, though generally still under the tutelage of one of its more powerful neighbours. Unfortunately, little of the city's rich heritage remains to be seen today.

The mid-sized, prosperous provincial capital is also called Phayao. While it is rarely visited by backpackers, it is creeping onto bus tour itineraries and it is quite popular with Thais who flock here from as far away as Bangkok for its scenic location on the edge of the beautiful Phayao Lake.

Believed to have been first built by the King of Chiang Saen around the turn of the 12th century, today it is just another ordinary urban centre. The city is very laidback and peaceful, while the lakeside strip of Chai Kwan Road is lined with bars, restaurants and nightclubs set against ornate gardens and parks full of picnicking Thais.

Lakeside breezes help keep the city cool and while there's little to actually do in Phayao itself, the sunset views across the lake to the distant hills from one of the excellent restaurants make at least an overnight stop here well worthwhile.

There are two small wats of interest close to town of which Wat Sri Khom Kham with its heaven and hell garden is the more interesting. Further afield, just under 20km from Phayao proper, the ridge top Wat Analayo is well worth a visit.

These sights aside, there's little of interest in town for the traveller, but it does make for a handy base for exploring the surrounds and is the most convenient stopover if you're looking to break up the Chiang Mai to Nan journey.

Depending on the route taken, Phayao is 600 to 700 kilometres from Bangkok, 90 km from Chiang Rai, 140 km from Chiang Mai and 137 km from Nan.