Phrae was originally founded in 828 under the name Muang Phon and is one of Thailand’s oldest cities. Though nominally independent, the city state changed hands on numerous occasions throughout its history.

A stint under Burmese rule culminating in the sacking of the city in 1902 by Shan invaders resulted in its last ruler Chao Piriyathapawong fleeing to Luang Prabang after which Phrae was assimilated into Thailand proper.

Like many Thai cities, Phrae is split into old and new sections. The new is quite uninteresting, but the old is packed with traditional Thai architecture in the form of beautiful teak houses, eclectic wats and quiet lanes worth spending a few hours wandering through.

Unfortunately and surprisingly, Phrae lacks good budget accommodation, meaning you need to stay in a dump while you explore the town and its surrounds.

The proliferation of large, colonial-style teak mansions date to the 19th century when many European traders set up business here for the teak trade.

This town is little visited, but worth the effort. 'Made in Phrae' is a well-known phrase for the indigo dyed cotton shirts you see all over Thailand. Phrae is where the best originate.