Si Satchanalai

A trip to the UNESCO World Heritage site at Si Satchanalai isn’t for everyone. In fact, for most of us, a visit to the more accessible, quite similar, yet seriously fantastic ruins at Sukhothai is probably enough. But for those few with a particularly keen interest in architecture and history, Si Satchanalai, with its more intimate setting and fewer number of visitors, creates a better chance to discover these ancient temples at your own pace and in your own way. In other words, Si Satchanalai is just like Sukhothai - only better.

Situated in a scenic spot near the Yom River, Si Satchanalai lies 65 km to the north of Sukhothai. During the Sukhothai era, Si Satchanalai was the kingdom’s administrative centre and considered to be Sukhothai’s twin city. During the 13th and 14th centuries, this lesser known sibling, along with Sukhothai and Kamphaeng Phet (the other other Sukhothai), formed the beginnings of the Thai state and the first period of Thai-style art.

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1991, Si Satchanalai’s isolation adds to its splendor. Although it attracts a fair number of foreign tour groups and Thai pilgrims, it is not crowded, and the compact, generally flat location makes it easily accessible by bicycle or on foot. There are no hawkers on the grounds and no hassles.

Because it is so isolated, most people visit Si Satchanalai as a day trip from Sukhothai. Buses bound for Chiang Rai pass very near the park along highway 101, departing Sukhothai at 6:30 and 9:00 am. Ask your bus driver to let you off at Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat (or Wat Phra Si for short). From here you can rent a bicycle (30 baht) for the 4 km ride to the park. From the bus stop, head west (left) across the wooden suspension bridge towards Wat Phra Si, then turn north (right) towards the park. The last bus back to Sukhothai is at 4 pm.

You can also hire a scooter at several guesthouses or shops in Sukhothai and drive to Si Satchanalai yourself. The route is lovely, passing several villages and countless rice and sugar cane fields along the way. The going is relatively flat and easy, but it’s nearly a 150 km journey round trip all up, which definitely makes for a long day. From Sukhothai, follow the signs along highway 1195 heading north towards the airport. This road will eventually transition into highway 1201 before passing the small but informative visitor centre and arriving at Si Satchanalai‘s main gate. Take highway 101 on the return trip to Sukhothai to see the giant Sukhothai-style golden Budda statue at Wat Sopharam. It’s huge!

The entry fee to the historical park is 100 baht. You’ll also find more bicycle rentals (20 baht) and the usual assortment of food stalls near the main gate. A better eating option for lunch, however, is the Kangsak Beer Garden two km south of the park, towards Wat Phra Si. The food is good, affordable, and the restaurant is a great place to relax and enjoy views of the river while taking a break from the ruins.

If you do need to spend the night near the park, Papong Homestay (055 631 557), half a kilometre north of Wat Phra Si has rooms for 500 baht. Another more modest-looking choice is the Wang Yon Restaurant and Guesthouse, just off highway 101 near the Wat Phra Si bus stop.

Before you go!

Be sure to check the latest bus schedules and road conditions before heading out, since they can change frequently. Ask your guesthouse or scooter rental shop for a map and directions as well. If you scooter, wear a helmet, and take water with you for the trip and while exploring the ruins. Stop by the park’s free visitor center for information on additional sites outside the ancient city walls, including Wat Phra Si (admission 20 baht).