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Sukhothai

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In a nutshell

This is the place to be for Loy Krathong in November. Otherwise, soak up the atmosphere while wandering the historic park's ancient ruins and learn something at the artifacts' museum. Take a cycle tour through the ruins for something different.

The ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai, a name meaning dawn of happiness, was founded in the 13th century and became the kingdom's first capital -- existing between the years of 1238 and 1438. During that time, the Sukhothai Dynasty saw nine Kings reign, the best known of whom was the third, King Ramkhamhaeng, who has been credited with both the creation of the modern-day Thai alphabet and the introduction of Theravada Buddhism to Thailand.

At its apex, the Sukhothai Kingdom stretched over much of modern-day Thailand (excepting the northeast, which remained under the control of the Khmers). The territory was gained both by military campaigns as well as diplomacy -- the latter of which King Ramkhamhaeng was seen to be a master of. This period is seen as a Thai golden age where the Thai arts and culture prospered under the reign of a series of benevolent rulers. Trade flourished, and, in a step that had important ramifications in Thailand's future development, trading relations with China opened.

Gradual decline began following King Ramkhamhaeng's death -- he was succeeded by his son, Lo Thai, a leader considered to have been ineffectual and who oversaw significant territorial losses. By the sixth reign, King Thammaracha I, Sukhothai was in a state of decline. In the year 1438, less than a century after King Ramkhamhaeng's death, the Sukhothai Empire was incorporated into the new rising star -- Ayutthaya.

Today, the same-named provincial capital has two distinct centres: New Sukhothai is a typical, modern Thai-style city home to virtually nothing of interest except some excellent guesthouses, while Old Sukhothai lies 12 km to the west and is where all the ruins of the original capital can be found. Nearly all travellers stay in New Sukhothai, though there is accommodation closer to the old city if you want to stay nearby.


Set in a 45-square kilometre UNESCO World Heritage-listed historical park, the ruins are spread out and best explored by (easily hired) bicycle. Be sure to set aside a full day to get the most out of the ruins -- factor in an early morning visit to see the ruins in the best light, and again in the late afternoon. Touring the park in the middle of the day, under the scorching sun, is not recommended -- luckily there's no shortage of places to eat and rest up at.

Further afield there are more ruins at Si Satchanalai and Chaliang, if you've got the time, these are certainly worth a visit, but if you're strapped for time stick with just old Sukhothai.

Sukhothai was also famed for its export of Sawankhalok pottery to much of Asia during its heyday, with a museum these days providing a glimpse into its production, the precursor to the celadon pottery Thailand is known for today.

Most of the accommodation is within a short walk of the Yom River in New Sukhothai, and one of the best options in town in the charming Lotus Village. Many of the restaurants and bars are also located in the new town. It's a small town and although there isn't much to see or do, it's a comfortable enough base to visit the ruins from. Some of the guesthouses are charming enough to seek out on their own.



Text and/or map last updated on 5th September, 2010.

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