Sukhothai
Travel Guide
In a nutshell
This is the place to be for Loy Krathong in November. Otherwise, soak up the atmosphere while wandering the historic park's ancient ruins and learn something at the artifacts' museum. Take a cycle tour through the ruins for something different.
The ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai, a name meaning dawn of happiness, was founded in the 13th century and became the kingdom's first capital -- existing between the years of 1238 and 1438. During that time, the Sukhothai Dynasty saw nine Kings reign, the best known of whom was the third, King Ramkhamhaeng, who has been credited with both the creation of the modern-day Thai alphabet and the introduction of Theravada Buddhism to Thailand.
At its apex, the Sukhothai Kingdom stretched over much of modern-day Thailand (excepting the northeast, which remained under the control of the Khmers). The territory was gained both by military campaigns as well as diplomacy -- the latter of which King Ramkhamhaeng was seen to be a master of. This period is seen as a Thai golden age where the Thai arts and culture prospered under the reign of a series of benevolent rulers. Trade flourished, and, in a step that had important ramifications in Thailand's future development, trading relations with China opened.
Gradual decline began following King Ramkhamhaeng's death -- he was succeeded by his son, Lo Thai, a leader considered to have been ineffectual and who oversaw significant territorial losses. By the sixth reign, King Thammaracha I, Sukhothai was in a state of decline. In the year 1438, less than a century after King Ramkhamhaeng's death, the Sukhothai Empire was incorporated into the new rising star -- Ayutthaya.
Today, the same-named provincial capital has two distinct centres: New Sukhothai is a typical, modern Thai-style city home to virtually nothing of interest except some excellent guesthouses, while Old Sukhothai lies 12 km to the west and is where all the ruins of the original capital can be found. Nearly all travellers stay in New Sukhothai, though there is accommodation closer to the old city if you want to stay nearby.
Set in a 45-square kilometre UNESCO World Heritage-listed historical park, the ruins are spread out and best explored by (easily hired) bicycle. Be sure to set aside a full day to get the most out of the ruins -- factor in an early morning visit to see the ruins in the best light, and again in the late afternoon. Touring the park in the middle of the day, under the scorching sun, is not recommended -- luckily there's no shortage of places to eat and rest up at.
Further afield there are more ruins at Si Satchanalai and Chaliang, if you've got the time, these are certainly worth a visit, but if you're strapped for time stick with just old Sukhothai.
Sukhothai was also famed for its export of Sawankhalok pottery to much of Asia during its heyday, with a museum these days providing a glimpse into its production, the precursor to the celadon pottery Thailand is known for today.
Most of the accommodation is within a short walk of the Yom River in New Sukhothai, and one of the best options in town in the charming Lotus Village. Many of the restaurants and bars are also located in the new town. It's a small town and although there isn't much to see or do, it's a comfortable enough base to visit the ruins from. Some of the guesthouses are charming enough to seek out on their own.
Text and/or map last updated on 5th September, 2010.
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Book Online
Ananda Museum Gallery Hotel
10 Moo 4, Ban Lum, MuangFrom: US$46.00 with Agoda
At Home Sukhothai
184/1 Wichian-chamnong Rd. Muang DistrictFrom: US$10.34 with HostelWorld
Baan Mo Resort
92/12 Moo4, Muang KaoFrom: US$20.00 with Agoda
Faa Ruan Tai Resort
9/13 Moo 3, Muang KaoFrom: US$26.00 with Agoda
Happiness Resort
558 Moo 8, Old CityFrom: US$26.00 with Agoda
Le Sukhothai Resort
52/7 Loethai Street, ThaneeFrom: US$26.00 with Agoda
Legendha Sukhothai Hotel
214 Moo3, Muangkoo, MuangFrom: US$76.00 with Agoda
Lotus Village Hotel
170 Ratchathanee StreetFrom: US$31.00 with Agoda
Mountain- View Guest house
23/3 moo8 maung kao maung sukhothai 64210From: US$14.64 with HostelWorld
Orchid Hibiscus Guest House
407/2 Muang KaoFrom: US$33.00 with Agoda
Pailyn Hotel
10/2 Moo 1, Jarodvithithong RoadFrom: US$43.00 with Agoda
Pinpao Guest House
72/3 Muang KaoFrom: US$33.00 with Agoda
Ruean Thai Hotel
181/20 Soi Pracharoumit, Jarodwithithong RdFrom: US$60.00 with Agoda
Sila Resort
3/49 Moo1 Wat Khooha Suwan Rd. T Pakkeaw A. MuangFrom: US$17.23 with HostelWorld
Sila Resort Sukhothai
3/49 Moo 1, Wat Khooha-Suwan Road, T. PakkeawFrom: US$15.00 with Agoda








Sukhothai reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Better than Ayutthaya
I spent a couple of days in Sukhothai two years ago and really enjoyed it. I think a lot of people toss up between Ayutthaya and Sukhothai and as we couldn't decide between the two we went to both. I'll write a separate report for Ayutthaya, but briefly, while I liked the town there, because the ruins are all intermingled with a living town it's a bit chaotic and it doesn't matter where you are you can always hear a screeching tuktuk of motorbike. It also seemed a lot more polluted than Sukhothai.
In Sukhothai, it's different. As is says above in the Travelfish write-up, the ruins are not in the main town but rather a 15-30 minute songtheaw ride away, all set in a large, peaceful park. While this means the whole site is a bit more manicured than Ayutthaya, it actually works really well as you can walk around, or cycle (as we did, you can hire pushbikes from just outside) totally undisturbed by traffic and whatnot.
The ruins are lovely. There's one massive sitting Buddha that is sort of inside a big box with a slot - I know, difficult to visualise, but you'll know it when you see it - and we just loved it. The hand that is reaching down to touch the ground has these incredibly long fingers and fingernails, I think we must have taken 100 photos!
In two days we went to the park twice. Once on the first afternoon and then again on the following morning. If I was to go again and only had time for one visit I'd go in the morning. We talked to others later in our trip who went in the middle of the day and really didn't enjoy it because of the heat.
Lastly, on the main Sukhothai town (where everyone stays) it's a fun place with lots of cheap guesthouses and had a pretty good ''scene'' for lack of a better word.
I'd definitely go again, and if I had to choose between here and Ayutthaya, I'd go with here.
By beachgirl (dabbler)
Written on 8th May, 2009 after a visit to Sukhothai in February, 2008
Also reviewed by beachgirl: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, Phu Quoc Island,