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Sukhothai

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The ancient Thai capital of Sukhothai, a name meaning dawn of happiness, was founded in the 13th century and became the kingdom's first capital -- existing between the years of 1238 and 1438. During that time, the Sukhothai Dynasty saw nine Kings reign, the best known of whom was the third, King Ramkhamhaeng, who has been credited with both the creation of the modern-day Thai alphabet and the introduction of Theravada Buddhism to Thailand.

At its apex, the Sukhothai Kingdom stretched over much of modern-day Thailand (excepting the northeast, which remained under the control of the Khmers). The territory was gained both by military campaigns as well as diplomacy -- the latter of which King Ramkhamhaeng was seen to be a master of. This period is seen as a Thai golden age where the Thai arts and culture prospered under the reign of a series of benevolent rulers. Trade flourished, and, in a step that had important ramifications in Thailand's future development, trading relations with China opened.

Gradual decline began following King Ramkhamhaeng's death -- he was succeeded by his son, Lo Thai, a leader considered to have been ineffectual and who oversaw significant territorial losses. By the sixth reign, King Thammaracha I, Sukhothai was in a state of decline. In the year 1438, less than a century after King Ramkhamhaeng's death, the Sukhothai Empire was incorporated into the new rising star -- Ayutthaya.

Today, the same-named provincial capital has two distinct centres: New Sukhothai is a typical, modern Thai-style city home to virtually nothing of interest except some excellent guesthouses, while Old Sukhothai lies 12 km to the west and is where all the ruins of the original capital can be found. Nearly all travellers stay in New Sukhothai, though there is accommodation closer to the old city if you want to stay nearby.


 
















Set in a 45-square kilometre UNESCO World Heritage-listed historical park, the ruins are spread out and best explored by (easily hired) bicycle. Be sure to set aside a full day to get the most out of the ruins -- factor in an early morning visit to see the ruins in the best light, and again in the late afternoon. Touring the park in the middle of the day, under the scorching sun, is not recommended -- luckily there's no shortage of places to eat and rest up at.

Further afield there are more ruins at Si Satchanalai and Chaliang, if you've got the time, these are certainly worth a visit, but if you're strapped for time stick with just old Sukhothai.

Sukhothai was also famed for its export of Sawankhalok pottery to much of Asia during its heyday, with a museum these days providing a glimpse into its production, the precursor to the celadon pottery Thailand is known for today.

Most of the accommodation is within a short walk of the Yom River in New Sukhothai, and one of the best options in town in the charming Lotus Village. Many of the restaurants and bars are also located in the new town. It's a small town and although there isn't much to see or do, it's a comfortable enough base to visit the ruins from. Some of the guesthouses are charming enough to seek out on their own.

Text and/or map last updated on 12th August, 2009.

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Picture of Mountain- View Guest house, 23/3 moo8 maung kao maung sukhothai 64210Mountain- View Guest house
23/3 moo8 maung kao maung sukhothai 64210
From: US$7.74 with HostelWorld


Picture of At Home Sukhothai, 184/1 Wichian-chamnong Rd. Muang DistrictAt Home Sukhothai
184/1 Wichian-chamnong Rd. Muang District
From: US$10.84 with HostelWorld


Picture of Lotus Village, SukhothaiLotus Village
Sukhothai
From: US$25.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Sukhothai Resort Hotel, SukhothaiSukhothai Resort Hotel
Sukhothai
From: US$26.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Pailyn Sukhothai Hotel, SukhothaiPailyn Sukhothai Hotel
Sukhothai
From: US$35.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Ananda Museum Gallery Hotel, SukhothaiAnanda Museum Gallery Hotel
Sukhothai
From: US$40.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of The Legendha, SukhothaiThe Legendha
Sukhothai
From: US$46.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Le Charme, Sukhothai, MuangLe Charme
Sukhothai, Muang
From: US$54.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of The Sukhothai Heritage Resort, Sukhothai, SawankalokeThe Sukhothai Heritage Resort
Sukhothai, Sawankaloke
From: US$59.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Tharaburi Resort, SukhothaiTharaburi Resort
Sukhothai
From: US$84.00 with Sawasdee


Picture of Sukhothai Heritage Resort, 999 Moo 2, T. Klongkrajong, A.SawankalokeSukhothai Heritage Resort
999 Moo 2, T. Klongkrajong, A.Sawankaloke
From: US$171.00 with Agoda


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Fresh off our Asia travel forum

Here are some discussions off the Travelfish forum, perhaps related to Sukhothai. You can find the full forum here.

Topic Replies  Views 
At Home Guesthouse in Sukhothai, Thailand 
In Thailand additions: by Issara, last reply by Sharmini
1 1303
Some questions about Sukhothai 
In Thailand: by cybervlad, last reply by shaydan_01
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Ayutthaya or Sukhothai or both? 
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3 941
Chiang Mai-Sukhothai-Kanchanaburi-Bangkok 
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Too many places, too little time. Angkor, Ayutthaya, Sukhothai 
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Ayutthaya Sukhothai Photos 
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Ayudthaya or Sukhothai? 
In Thailand: by pilinka, last reply by scomoore1
8 1315
EZ House @ Sukhothai 
In Thailand additions: by EZHouse
0 1039
fantastic Sukhothai guesthouse: Orchid Hibiscus 
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1 2708
Ayutthaya or Sukhothai? 
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1 1196
Ayutthaya to Sukhothai transport 
In Thailand: by msaw, last reply by Tilapia
3 1421
New guest house in Sukhothai 
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0 1860
sukhothai from Phitsanoluk 
In Thailand: by reenakukreja, last reply by Tilapia
4 1195
Sukhothai Historical Site Opening Hours 
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ecotourism options - in sukhothai (& beyond) 
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Sukhothai reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

Better than Ayutthaya
By beachgirl (dabbler - 3 reviews)
Written on 8th May, 2009 after a visit to Sukhothai in February, 2008

I spent a couple of days in Sukhothai two years ago and really enjoyed it. I think a lot of people toss up between Ayutthaya and Sukhothai and as we couldn't decide between the two we went to both. I'll write a separate report for Ayutthaya, but briefly, while I liked the town there, because the ruins are all intermingled with a living town it's a bit chaotic and it doesn't matter where you are you can always hear a screeching tuktuk of motorbike. It also seemed a lot more polluted than Sukhothai.

In Sukhothai, it's different. As is says above in the Travelfish write-up, the ruins are not in the main town but rather a 15-30 minute songtheaw ride away, all set in a large, peaceful park. While this means the whole site is a bit more manicured than Ayutthaya, it actually works really well as you can walk around, or cycle (as we did, you can hire pushbikes from just outside) totally undisturbed by traffic and whatnot.

The ruins are lovely. There's one massive sitting Buddha that is sort of inside a big box with a slot - I know, difficult to visualise, but you'll know it when you see it - and we just loved it. The hand that is reaching down to touch the ground has these incredibly long fingers and fingernails, I think we must have taken 100 photos!

In two days we went to the park twice. Once on the first afternoon and then again on the following morning. If I was to go again and only had time for one visit I'd go in the morning. We talked to others later in our trip who went in the middle of the day and really didn't enjoy it because of the heat.

Lastly, on the main Sukhothai town (where everyone stays) it's a fun place with lots of cheap guesthouses and had a pretty good ''scene'' for lack of a better word.

I'd definitely go again, and if I had to choose between here and Ayutthaya, I'd go with here.
  Sights & activities
  History & culture
  Scenery & environment
  Eat & drink
  Traveller's scene
  Romance
  Value for money
  I'll be back (or not)
Also reviewed by beachgirl: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, Phu Quoc Island,

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