Umphang

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Around five hours and 165km of winding mountain-top road south of Mae Sot, lies Umphang -- a blip of a village that would be completely unknown was it not the launch pad for Thailand's largest, and most impressive waterfall, the mighty Tee Lor Su waterfall.

Umphang has long been popular with domestic tourists, but it's strangely never been all that popular with foreign visitors -- partly due to the fact that it sits almost at the end of what is essentially a dead-end road.

While it was once possible to undertake a seven-day walk from here to Sangkhlaburi in Kanchanaburi province, as the circuitous route required substantial stretches within Karen State of Burma, it is well and truly off limits for the time being.

The result is a moderately-sized village that has largely dodged the bullet of tourism development. Sure, there's a bunch of guesthouses, a handful of trekking outfits and a few places to eat, but Pai this is not -- which means Umphang could be just what you're looking for.

Umphang has maintained most of its natural charm and around town there is still very much a lifestyle which many travellers associate with yesteryear. Small market vendors are dotted around, and the majority of the people work in the local rice paddies. Forget the minimart, bar or disco, but expect an abundance of smiling inquisitive locals -- many of whom remain mostly unacquainted with modern mass tourism.

The majority of the Thais who visit Umphang do so as a part of a group tour. These tours tend to simply pass through town en-route to Tee Lor Su and don't actually interact much at all with the locals, so if you've the time to stop for a few days and just wander about you'll certainly be up for an enjoyable stay. The local people seem keen to learn English so don't be surprised to be collared by an eager local looking to practice their vocabulary.

Orientation
If you can find your way around the streets of Umphang without getting lost you're a better man than most. Not that it's a huge place by any means -- in pretty tiny -- but the way the streets are interwoven, and the fact that there's nothing which distinguishes one from another makes it quite confusing. Fortunately it doesn't matter as there's not that much to it.

Umphang has a handful of small eateries, and a bus station. Aside from a small cookie shop, book shop and a souvenir shop, there's no commerce to speak of, and there's no bank -- so make sure you bring some cash with you!

Aside from Phu Doi and Trekker Hill which are by the hill-top bus station, all the accommodation is on the road which heads directly down from there. The road is a few kilometres long and is dotted with places to stay, as well as a scattering of places to eat.

Text and/or map last updated on 12th August, 2009.

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Umphang reviews

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Um Phang - more of a centre than a town
By BruceMoon (dabbler - 5 reviews)
Written on 3rd June, 2009 after a visit to Umphang in September, 2008
The description above is correct: Um Phang is haphazardly laid out, it is just soooo laid back, and local friendliness pervades life.

Perhaps best of all, the hassles associated with westernised tourism have largely by-passed Um Phang. No touts, no rip-off prices, no misrepresentation, no western TV, no hamburgers, muffins or thickshakes. Just a little slice of Thai-Burmese in Thailand.

For some, Um Phang itself is no big deal. It's what's around Um Phang that makes Um Phang special.

The road trip is a 5 hour journey. The first 2 hours (or so) traverse through undulating countryside perfect for small scale crop growing. By the third hour, the terrain is rugged and the windy road is clothed in wonderfully scenic forest: a remnant of Thailand of days past.

The road to Um Phang passes Karen refugee camps. With a (hard to get) pass, you are allowed to visit. Even though they have little and little to aspire to, I doubt you'd meet friendlier people.

From Um Phang, trekkers visit remote communities, and/or the Moei River (a branch of the Salawin River [elsewhere known as Salween or Nu]), or enjoy waterfalls and hot springs

The more adventurous seek out river boating or rafting, or go caving.

A guide to scenic opportunities, and ethnic village locations can be found at:

http://www.trekthailand.net/places/5/index.html

- - -

The rankings below are generic, and so some explanation is needed for the 'numbers'.

Sights & activities: I've given 9 in that one goes to Um Phang for these. If sights and activities do not float your boat....

History & Culture: The history is largely recent [Karen, Myanmar, refugee...], while the culture is that one CAN associate more with Karen traditions that commercial Thai (if one wants).

Scenery & Environment: For Thailand, it all comes together here. A lack of logged areas, a lack of clearing for farming, verdant steep hills, need I write more.

Eat & Drink: Yes, beer is available. As is food! But, few traders provide traditional Thai or Karen (Burmese even) foods. Perhaps this reflects the tourist focus to date.

Traveller scene: lack of westerners means the disco ain't there. So, while I would rate highly for the absence, the scale really points to the high life.

Romance: Being a sextegenarian, I'm not sure I can comment. But, if trekking through mountains turns a younger couple to smooching, then yes.

Value for money: Is not being ripped off value for money? Prices are higher due to freight costs, but the profit margins are lower.

I'll be back(or not): If there were not an endless supply of wonderful places in the world, yes. If I was back in Mae Sot, yes. Whether I'm in the region again, who knows!

Cheers

Sights & activities
History & culture
Scenery & environment
Eat & drink

Traveller's scene
Romance
Value for money
I'll be back (or not)

Also reviewed by BruceMoon: Luang Nam Tha, Mai Chau, Pai,

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Umphang

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