For many a year, the long slender island of Ko Lanta (or Ko Lanta Yai to be exact) was one of the lesser-visited backpacker spots in southern Thailand. It played second fiddle to the grand traveller magnets of Ko Phi Phi and Railay Beach on the west coast, and Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao on Thailand's east coast. But for those in the know, a bit of second fiddle was just what the doctor ordered.
As travellers moaned about packed out beaches and overpriced bungalows on Ko Phi Phi and Railay, Ko Lanta was awash with near-deserted beaches and surprisingly good value accommodation -- with an ample supply of both budget bungalows and more mid-range hotels and resorts.
But, like all the best secrets, word about just how great Ko Lanta is, has slowly slipped out and over the last couple of years in particular, there's been substantial development. But don't panic, just because there's a six-star boutique over the headland doesn't mean all the bamboo shacks have gone the way of the Dodo.
Ko Lanta Yai (Big Lanta Island) is the largest island within the Ko Lanta archipelago -- a grouping of some fifty (mostly uninhabited) islands. The southern reaches of this group, including the southern tip of Ko Lanta Yai itself, form the quite well regarded Mu Ko Lanta National Marine Park. The main island is home to some 10,000 indigenous residents -- most of whom are Muslim -- and who have busied themselves for generations in the fishing and agriculture industries. Tourism is a relatively new scene.
While it is easy to see the hotels and resorts, and bars and restaurants lining the northern beaches and assume an "anything goes" style attitude, that would be a mistake. The locals, especially the older generation are quite conservative, and while many of the people you'll be dealing with day to day may hark from elsewhere in Thailand, and be more cosmopolitan in their views, you should bear in mind that Ko Lanta remains quite a conservative island.
It is this conservative vibe that has helped solidify the island's reputation as a safe, family-friendly destination. Indeed, this is further buttressed by the generally calm waters and broad open beaches along its west coast. If you're travelling with small kids in tow, you'll likely find Ko Lanta to be a winning choice.
While the western coast is lined with fine, open beaches, the island's east coast is more given over to mangroves and small riverine inlets. You're unlikely to find yourself in this part of the island except as a part of one of the popular kayak excursions or perhaps if you're doing a bit of exploration by bicycle. The villages on the east coast, like pretty much anything off the main tourist strip, are old school and conservative. Expect lots of friendly reactions, but dress -- and behave -- with consideration.
Today, Ko Lanta has accommodation for just about every budget -- from luxurious hideaways to backpacker bungalows, and everything in between. And, in a nod to it remaining off the package tour radar, the island remains seasonal -- in low season many of the guesthouses, resorts and restaurants shut down. There's an upside to low season of course -- if you don't mind coming out of the ocean to the occasionally soggy beach towel, you'll get some astounding cheap deals -- and more than likely have the beach all to yourself.
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