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The virtues and vices of Ko Phi Phi are hotly discussed by travellers and travel writers alike. The natural beauty of the island is unparalleled, even in a region of the world renowned for its stunning destinations. Limestone cliffs, turquoise waters, white sand beaches and miles of trackless forest make Phi Phi a perfect tropical island in anyone's book.

But developments over the past 20 years have made it the subject of controversy, with those who wanted to preserve its natural character, pitched against those who wanted to make it a world-class holiday destination and profit from the trade. To understand the dispute, you have to imagine what the island was like, 20 years ago, when it was first 'discovered' by adventurous backpackers looking for Eden on earth. They found it on Ko Phi Phi Don -- a long, wide sand bar gracefully arching between two magnificent islands, creating two placid bays ideal for swimming, snorkelling and scuba diving, surrounded by cliffs waiting to be climbed and forests to be explored. Back then there were only a scattering of bungalows, which was populated mostly by a community of sea-faring gypsies, who call themselves the Chao Ko -- the Island People. There was no pier and only one public boat each week made scheduled trips out to the island.

But the paradox in seeking out a hidden paradise is that it subsequently winds up on the map and others begin to seek it out, too -- in ever-increasing numbers. This became the primary driving force in shaping the island, fuelling the long, hasty and haphazard development of the island's infrastructure. The once-idyllic Ton Sai Beach became a port, clogged with boats and debris, with a pier to accommodate the large vessels needed to bring the growing number of visitors to shore enmasse. The sandy isthmus is almost unrecognisable now, blanketed with guesthouses, luxury hotels, bars, restaurants, tailors, internet cafes, travel agents, banks, CD shops, jewellery stalls and clothing markets. Here, price gouging is the norm and tourists are hounded by Thais and resident foreigners alike touting diving trips, boats for hire, places to stay and bars to drink at. Those who remember what it once was, and what it could have been, find it impossible not to shed a tear when they see the place today. It exists, after all, on what is partially national park land. Thailand might have created a well-managed park with walking trails, rock-climbing, caving, unspoilt diving and snorkelling sites ... From that perspective, it is a paradise lost.

But the blame doesn't rest solely with foreign tourists, the Thais have been grabbing themselves a piece of the pie as well. The western world has been paving paradise and putting up a parking lot for a long time before Thailand got into the game and can hardly take the moral high ground when it comes to how Thailand uses its natural resources. Whatever one may wish had been done with Ko Phi Phi, the balance of forces in Thai government and in Thai society have conspired to create their own future for the island as a well-developed and fairly affordable resort destination for holiday-makers from around the world

The chequered history of Ko Phi Phi took a tragic turn with the 2004 Asian tsunami. In the wake of the devastation, the future of the island seemed uncertain and the balance of power seemed to shift. Plans were revived to assert government control of the island and restore its status as a national park, allowing only careful and controlled development. But local land owners saw this as a cynical landgrab by parties within the Thai government, who, they suspected, really just wanted the cash cow all to themselves. The government's plans were thwarted and private industry rebuilt, reinvested, and expanded the island's infrastructure. And they did so in fairly short order, considering the enormity of the task and a complete lack of any government relief. At present, private development has picked up where it left off before the tsunami and shows no intention of changing course.

On the bright side, the island has been cleaned up considerably from the festering sore it was a decade ago, when construction marred much of it and filth covered the beaches. Through a combination of a growing emphasis on ecological preservation, and, ironically, the tsunami itself, today the sand and waters are fairly clean, there are no private cars or macadam roads and no plans to introduce any. A few dozens saleangs -- motorcycles with side cars -- pick their way over sand and dirt roads, transporting passengers and their bags to their hotel when they first arrive, but they are mostly used for getting goods and equipment from here to there. Other than that, modes of transport are limited to push carts, bicycles and flip-flops.

At present, as it was before the tsunami, Ton Sai village occupies a large chunk of the isthmus, constituting nothing so much as an open-air shopping mall. Along Ton Sai beach, half-a-dozen bars blast pop-music out over the water, serving pricey drinks and providing fire shows for the tourists into the wee hours of the night. Though on average it's more expensive than many other Thai islands, it's still remarkably cheaper than similar accommodation in other premier destinations around the world. Try finding a decent room in Hawaii or San Tropez for ten dollars a night.

Despite the touts and the crowds, Ton Sai village remains just what many vacationers are looking for and provides everything they need for a fun, memorable holiday. And in terms of the unspoilt tropical paradise the island once was, the good news for the keepers of the flame is that it has not died out completely. Ko Phi Phi Don's sister island, Ko Phi Phi Leh remains completely untouched, and only available for daytrips by boat -- though many now complain that the inundation by day-trippers has spoiled the place in an only slightly less regrettable way. But there's more: between Ton Sai and Laem Thong, at the northern tip of the island, there are half-a-dozen beaches, many accessible only by boat, offering an escape from the maddening crowds. There you'll find some dirt cheap accommodation, charming, rustic bungalows and mid-to-high-range spots -- from banal tour-group operations to some of the most exquisite luxury spots in Thailand. And there are still Chao Ko living out on Laem Thong, running local shops along-side the fancy resorts, selling food and drink at local prices.

Even within walking distance of Ton Sai village, inland towards the northern part of the isthmus, there's a great variety of places to stay where you can easily forget all about the shopping mall's dubious attractions. Old school travellers may well loathe what they see when they get off the boat, but when all is said and done, the natural beauty of the island is still there to be enjoyed, and with a little effort, they may well find paradise regained.

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Ao Poh Resort ($), Ao Toh Ko Bungalows ($), Phi Phi Island Village ($$$$), The Zeavola ($$$$$), Chunut House ($$), Garden Home ($$), Kinnaree House ($$), Paradise Pearl Bungalow ($$), Phi Phi The Beach Resort ($$$), Relax Beach Resort ($$), The Holiday Inn ($$$$), Tropical Garden Bungalows ($$), Viking Place Resort ($$),

Name

Rate

Online rate

Alis Hotel
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
2,000B Check room availability
Amara Residence
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
1,400B Check room availability
Amari Vogue Resort
Krabi, Tubkaak Beach
5,000B Check room availability
Ancient Realm Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
500B Check room availability
Andaman Lanta Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
850B -- Promotion Check room availability
Andamanee Boutique Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
2,100B -- Promotion Check room availability
Anyavee Railay Resort
Ao Nang, Railay Beach
1,450B Check room availability
Anyavee Tubkaek Beach Resort
Krabi,Tubkaak Beach
4,600B Check room availability
Ao Nang Beach Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
1,100B Check room availability
Ao Nang Orchid Resort
Ao Nang
2,850B Check room availability
Ao Nang Sea Front Thai Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
950B Check room availability
Ao Nang Sunset Hotel
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
850B Check room availability
Ao Nang Terrace Hotel
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
1,300B Check room availability
Aonang Buri Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
1,300B Check room availability
Aonang Mountain Paradise
Ao Nang
550B Check room availability
Aonang Paradise Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,400B -- Promotion Check room availability
Aonang President Hotel
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,250B Check room availability
Aonang Princeville Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
1,550B -- Promotion Check room availability
Aonang Villa
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
2,000B Check room availability
Araya Buri Resort
Phi Phi Island, Laem Hin
2,000B Check room availability
Ayodhaya Suite Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
3,750B -- Promotion Check room availability
Baan Laanta Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Kantiang Beach
1,700B Check room availability
Bay View Resort
Phi Phi Island, Leam Hin Beach
1,450B Check room availability
Beach Terrace Hotel
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
950B Check room availability
Best Western Ao Nang Bay Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
1,750B -- Promotion Check room availability
Best Western Ban Ao Nang Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,550B Check room availability
Best Western Premier Maya Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
2,700B Check room availability
Blue Village
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,000B Check room availability
Boon Siam Hotel
Krabi Town
1,000B Check room availability
BSS Private Krabi Residence
Ao Nang Center
650B Check room availability
Buri Tara Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
1,650B -- Promotion Check room availability
Centara Grand Beach Resort + Villas Krabi
Ao Nang, Phaiplong Beach
6,000B -- Promotion Check room availability
Cha Wan Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
2,350B Check room availability
Chada Beach Resort and Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
5,100B -- Promotion Check room availability
Chaw-Ka-Cher Tropicana Lanta Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Bay
2,000B Check room availability
Chaya Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
1,500B Check room availability
Clean Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
1,200B Check room availability
Cliff Ao Nang Resort
Ao Nang Center
3,450B -- Promotion Check room availability
D.R Lanta Bay Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
1,200B Check room availability
Diamond Cave Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Railay Beach East
1,550B Check room availability
Dream Team Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Ao Nui Bay
800B Check room availability
Duang Jai Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
1,600B Check room availability
Emerald Garden Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
1,550B -- Promotion Check room availability
Eyes Lanta
Koh Lanta Yai, Kantiang Bay
1,750B Check room availability
Freedom Estate
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
950B Check room availability
Golden Bay Cottage
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
900B Check room availability
Golden Beach Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
2,150B Check room availability
Gooddays Lanta Chalet + Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
550B Check room availability
Green House Hotel
Krabi Town
1,000B Check room availability
Happiness Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara
850B Check room availability
Harvest House
Ao Nang
0B Check room availability
Holiday Inn Phi Phi Island
Phi Phi Island, Laem Tong
3,650B Check room availability
Holiday Villa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
1,400B -- Promotion Check room availability
Howdy Relaxing Hotel
Krabi Town
950B Check room availability
Islanda Village Resort
Krabi, Koh Klang
2,950B Check room availability
J2B Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
900B Check room availability
Kaw Kwang Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Kaw Kwang Beach
300B Check room availability
Koh Jum Lodge
Koh Jum, Koh Pu Island
2,950B Check room availability
Koh Kwang Resort
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
500B Check room availability
Krabi Cozy Place Hotel
Krabi Town
950B Check room availability
Krabi Heritage Hotel
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,750B Check room availability
Krabi La Playa Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
2,100B -- Promotion Check room availability
Krabi National Park Success Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
2,000B Check room availability
Krabi Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
2,000B Check room availability
Krabi Sands Resort
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
2,600B Check room availability
Krabi Thai Village Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
3,050B Check room availability
Krabi Tropical Bay Resort
Krabi, Ao Namao Beach
1,500B Check room availability
La Venice Residence
Krabi, Klong Muang Bay
1,900B Check room availability
Langham Place Eco Resort + Spa Rawi Warin
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
3,500B -- Promotion Check room availability
Lanta Bee Garden Bungalows
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
400B Check room availability
Lanta Castaway Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
1,000B Check room availability
Lanta Casuarina Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
1,750B Check room availability
Lanta Darawadee Hotel
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Khong Bay
850B Check room availability
Lanta Garden Hill Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Bay
960B Check room availability
Lanta ilmare Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
750B Check room availability
Lanta Island Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
450B -- Promotion Check room availability
Lanta Long Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
1,100B Check room availability
Lanta Marine Park View Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Kantiang Beach
850B Check room availability
Lanta Mermaid Boutique House
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
1,200B -- Promotion Check room availability
Lanta Nakara Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
1,400B Check room availability
Lanta Nice Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
500B Check room availability
Lanta Palace Resort + Beach Club
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
750B Check room availability
Lanta Pavilion Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
600B Check room availability
Lanta Residence + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
850B Check room availability
Lanta Sand Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
5,300B -- Promotion Check room availability
Lanta Seafront Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
1,000B Check room availability
Lanta Thanya Beach Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klongtoab Beach
2,250B Check room availability
Lanta White Rock Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
1,200B Check room availability
Lantawadee Resort and Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Bay
400B Check room availability
Layana Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
5,040B -- Promotion Check room availability
Maritime Park + Spa Resort
Krabi Town
2,200B Check room availability
Mild Bungalow
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
1,200B Check room availability
Mook Lanta Boutique Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
1,000B Check room availability
Moonlight Bay Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Tok Beach
1,400B -- Promotion Check room availability
Nadivana Service Apartment
Ao Nang
1,650B Check room availability
Nakamanda Resort + Spa
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
7,750B Check room availability
Ocean View Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
850B Check room availability
Pakasai Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
4,500B Check room availability
Pavilion Queen`s Bay
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Bay
2,700B Check room availability
Peace Laguna Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
2,000B Check room availability
Phi Phi Banyan Villa
Phi Phi Island, Ton Sai Beach
1,450B -- Promotion Check room availability
Phi Phi Hotel
Phi Phi Island, Ton Sai Beach
1,200B Check room availability
Phi Phi Island Cabana Hotel
Phi Phi Island, Ton Sai Beach
2,600B Check room availability
Phi Phi Island Village Beach Resort + Spa
Phi Phi Island, Loh Ba Gao Bay
4,800B -- Promotion Check room availability
Phi Phi Natural Resort
Phi Phi Island, Laem Tong
1,450B -- Promotion Check room availability
Phi Phi Relax Beach Resort
Phi Phi Island, Phak Nam Bay
900B Check room availability
Phi Phi Viewpoint Resort
Phi Phi Island, Lo Dalam Beach
1,050B Check room availability
Phra Nang Inn
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
2,350B -- Promotion Check room availability
Phra Nang Lanta
Koh Lanta Yai, Kantiang Beach
4,100B Check room availability
Phranang Place
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
800B Check room availability
Phu Pranang Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Nopparattara
1,250B -- Promotion Check room availability
Pimalai Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Kantiang Beach
7,500B -- Promotion Check room availability
PP Erawan Palms Resort
Phi Phi Island, Laem Tong
2,000B -- Promotion Check room availability
Private Beach Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
600B Check room availability
Railay Bay Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Railay Beach
2,000B -- Promotion Check room availability
Railay Princess Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Railay Bay
1,750B -- Promotion Check room availability
Railay Village Resort
Ao Nang, Railay Bay
3,150B -- Promotion Check room availability
Rayavadee Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
21,500B Check room availability
Relax Bay Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
900B Check room availability
Royal Lanta Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
1,750B -- Promotion Check room availability
Royal Nakara Ao Nang
Ao Nang, Nopparattara
1,400B Check room availability
Sand Sea Resort
Ao Nang, Railay Beach
1,300B Check room availability
Sayang Beach Bungalows
Koh Lanta Yai, Phra Ae Beach
500B Check room availability
Sheraton Krabi Beach Resort
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
6,500B Check room availability
Sofitel Phokeethra Krabi
Krabi, Klong Muang Beach
0B Check room availability
Somkiet Buri Resort + Spa
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,800B -- Promotion Check room availability
Southern Lanta Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
1,000B Check room availability
Sri Lanta
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Nin Beach
2,350B Check room availability
Sripet Hotel
Krabi Town
900B Check room availability
Srisuksant Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara Beach
950B Check room availability
Sunda Resort
Ao Nang, Nopparattara
1,000B Check room availability
Sunrise Tropical Resort
Ao Nang, Railay Beach East
1,750B -- Promotion Check room availability
The Dream Garden
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
600B Check room availability
The Greenery Hotel
Krabi Town
600B Check room availability
The Palace Aonang Resort
Ao Nang Center
850B Check room availability
The Verandah
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
700B Check room availability
Thepparat Lodge
Krabi Town
700B Check room availability
Thip Residence
Krabi, Ao Namao Beach
700B Check room availability
Tipa Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,200B -- Promotion Check room availability
Tonsai Bay Resort
Ao Nang, Tonsai Bay
1,000B Check room availability
Tropical Herbal Spa + Resort
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
2,350B Check room availability
Tubkaak Boutique Resort
Krabi,Tubkaak Beach
6,450B Check room availability
Tup Kaek Sunset Beach Resort
Krabi,Tubkaak Beach
1,750B Check room availability
Twin Lotus Resort + Spa
Koh Lanta Yai, Klong Dao Beach
3,300B -- Promotion Check room availability
Twinbay Resort
Koh Lanta Yai, Kaw Kwang Beach
1,100B Check room availability
Vogue Resort + Spa Ao Nang
Ao Nang, Phranang Bay
1,800B -- Promotion Check room availability
Wannas Place (Andaman Sunset Resort)
Ao Nang, Phranang Beach
1,050B -- Promotion Check room availability
Ya Ya Resort
Ao Nang, Railay Beach East
550B Check room availability
Zeavola
Phi Phi Island, Laem Tong
8,250B -- Promotion Check room availability

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