Krabi

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In a nutshell

Conquer your fears by climbing towering limestone karsts with breathtaking views. Get wet by scuba diving or snorkelling in turquoise waters. Party at the Ko Pha Ngan Full Moon Party-clone. It can get crowded, but for a very good reason: it's gorgeous.

Thailand's Krabi province has grown hugely popular as a resort destination in recent years and with good reason -- white-sand beaches skirt spectacular limestone karsts for much of the coastline, creating postcard-perfect scenery.

Unfortunately some of the worst examples of trashed beaches are also found in Krabi province -- Ton Sai and Ao Dalam beaches on Ko Phi Phi, for instance, have been close to ruined through a mixture of greedy Bangkok business people, lax environmental regulations and over-eager tourists. Thankfully, there are still some relatively unspoilt beaches elsewhere on the island -- lets hope they stay that way.

But there's more to Krabi province than Ko Phi Phi. The eponymous provincial capital sits on the bank of the Krabi River and has a quaint tourist town feel to it, with a bunch of good guesthouses, traveller cafes, shops and travel agents satisfying most needs. There's some low keys sits which can be visited from the capital, like the Tiger Cave Temple and Fossil Shell Beach, but most people use it as a rest-stop before heading to or from the islands or nearby Ao Nang and Haad Nopphara Thara.

These two mainland beaches draw a steady crowd with Ao Nang in particular having a large range of lodgings from backpacker flophouses to luxurious resorts. Thrown into the mix are a vast range of eateries, tailors, travel agents and other tourist outlets. Ao Nang is very popular -- especially with European package tourists. Just around the headland from Ao Nang is Haad Nopphara Thara -- a long thin beach, split in two by a river. The latter section, most easily reached by boat, has a very laid back, hidden away feel to it with a handful of super-budget places to stay.

Also on the mainland, but only reachable by boat, the spectacular Railay Beach is almost as popular as offshore Ko Phi Phi. Tremendous rock-climbing opportunities along with jaw-dropping scenery, makes Railay Beach a very popular choice -- especially in peak season when it operates at close to capacity. This popularity though comes with a hefty price tag and the main beach is bearing the brunt of over-development and lack of infrastructure -- quiet and peaceful, it is not. Nearby Ton Sai Bay is the better location for those looking for some peace and quiet.

Further afield, the long, thin Ko Lanta, which sits to the south of the provincial capital has been a long-running favourite -- particularly with families due to its mostly calm waters and secluded beaches. Accommodation is far more affordable here than on Ko Phi Phi, Ao Nang or Railay making it a great spot for a budget beach break. Though don't assume it's all budget -- if you want, you can spend a fortune on Ko Lanta as there's some lovely resorts to choose from.

There's still more islands -- Ko Si Boya, Ko Jum and Chicken Island are all worth a look in.

Back on terra firma, Krabi province is also home to some primary rainforestat Than Bokkharani National Park, just 30 minutes north of Krabi town, where the endangered Gurney's Pitta still manages to eke out an existence. This small, yellow-bellied bird was thought to be extinct until 1986 when a few were discovered -- even today, only 13 pairs are believed to be alive. Other feathered rarities also dwell in Krabi's rainforest, making it a must-see stop for bird-watchers.

The provincial capital, Krabi town is mostly visited as a stop on the way to any of the above, but one could easily spend a day or two in this sleepy provincial capital. While not wallowing in exciting sites, there are some good value choices for your stay, some surprisingly-good eating, and the surrounds do have a few minor sites worth peeking at.

The town is carpeted with travel agents who can organise just about anything, including parting you with stacks of money in return for shoving you on poor quality buses. The only way to guarantee this won't happen is to use only the public buses from the bus station. They cost more, but are far better quality, and they'll always take you where you want to go. The regular minivans departing from town are also a safe bet.

Get orientated with a map of Krabi, Thailand

Krabi reviews

Backchat from the Travelfish community

All the beaches

Latest trip I stayed on western Hat Noppharet Thara and spent most time at Railay. Will submit reviews of these - check 0NWARD TRAVEL top left of this page. Below is an outline of Krabi beaches, mainland only.

PHRANANG PENINSULA BEACHES - scenic karst clifF area 5km SW of Krabi town only accessible by boat: Ao Nang closest.
-PHRANGAN BEACH. Most spectacular on mainland? Blinding white sand book-ended by soaring limestone cliffs. Deep water all tides - big swimming enclosure at eastern end. Gets very crowded and beach narrow at high tide eastern half - go around the corner to western end for fewer people, more sand. Only one resort, super exxy RAYAVADEE.
-EAST RAILAY. Mangroves 2/3rd of shore, extensive mud flats low tide. But good beach to stay at - big range of accomm all standards, plenty of restaurants and bars. Higher accommodation has nice views. 5 minutes walk to 2 of the best beaches in the Andaman - Phranang and West Railay.
WEST RAILAY- much like Phranang but not quite as attractive. Part of RAYAVADEE, 3 midrange resorts and a beach-club chalet place behind the sand.
TON SAI - climbers'/backpacker' beach with lots of budget accomm up the loop track from mid-beach back to western end - also on side track which eventually goes over high saddle to East Railay (20 minutes). Growing amount of more expensive places.
Cliffs even more spectacular. Beach looks ok high tide but lotsa dark rock exposed at low. No matter, 5 minutes climb over steep eastern headland to West Railay.
AP PHAI PLONG - gorgeous little beach between Ao Nang and Ton Sai. Usual cliffs. Site of flash CENTARA. My pick of high end Krabi locations. Public access via National Parks walkway over headland from eastern end of Ao Nang beach.

AO NANG BEACHES - busy seaside town abt 7km west of Krabi town.
AO NANG BEACH - western part in front of town ordinary; lotsa boats, high concrete sea wall. Eastern half pretty nice - ok sand, water not too shallow, lotsa food/massage/drink places under trees behind. Popular.
HAT NOPPHARET THARA (east) - 10 minutes walk over not too steep main road headland from Ao Nang. Long beach, okay sand and water but suffers low tide blues. V popular with locals so plenty of food vendors under trees back of beach. Ao Nang town extends to eastern half - lotsa accomm of all standards.
HAT TON SON - laid back western extension of Noppharet across klong (sm. river) from National Park HQ. Nice sand, similar low tide blues. Abt 5 mainly budget resorts over 2km. V quiet, few people. Tricky access - see my other report.

WEST KRABI BEAHES - islolated region 20 km NW of Ao Nang, 30 SW Krabi town. Beaches not as nice as Phranang peninsula but bunch of midrange and better accomm maybe better value.
KLONG MUANG SOUTH - most attractive IMHO. V nice high tide, fair bit of clean sand exposed low tide but ok swimming further out. Site of attractive SHERATON. Main rd shops etc 10 mins away but good value beach restaurant/bar adjacent.
KLONG MUANG NORTH - lotsa fishing junk in south backed by daggy looking main road businesses. Site of budget KO KWANG RESORT across road. Only 10 minutes to nicer KM SOUTH. North end has daggy gypsum loading pier. Mid section not bad with midrange SOFITEL and KRABI SANDS.
TABKEAK BEACH: northern most, suffers low tide blues and not much beach high tide. But some very nice accomm - ANYAVEEW TABKAEK (ex AMARI) and TABAAK KRABI BOUTIQUE which get excellent reviews. Best views of spectacular Phang Nga Bay islands here.

OTHER BEACHES:
AO NAM MAO - between East Railay and Krabi town. ok if you want away from the crowds. Lots of exposed rock low tide - nice karst cliffs north end plus views of similar at East Railay, Phranang and offshore islands. Funky DAWN OF HAPPINESS of old has has upmarket joints like
AMAPATURA now. This is bad weather departure point for Railay - I have used it in fine weather too.
HAT YAO - new frontier, well away from others SE from Krabi town across other side of river. 5km long, low tide blues, water not too clear (on estuarine island with klongs both side) but a few new flash joints which Thais do well - BEACH BOUTIQUE, SEA HOUSE. At least one budget resort but I lost details - sorry.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By tezza (dabbler)
Written on 10th May, 2013 after a visit to Krabi in March, 2013

Also reviewed by tezza: Ao Phang Nga National Marine Park, Coral and Raya Islands, Haad Nopphara Thara, Haad Sai Khao, Kanchanaburi, Khao Lak, Ko Bulon Lae, Ko Kho Khao, Ko Kut, Ko Lipe,
Krabi Town

This was our first destination in Thailand and it is a great place to assimilate yourself into the cultural surroundings of this amazing country. It's not too hectic or large to induce a case of culture shock, but it's one of the places we visited that has been least influenced by the west.

We caught a ride from the airport by bus and you arrive in an area that has the most hotel, easily in walking distance from one another and it is completely possible to wander around comparing room rates without having booked anything. You can book buses or taxis to Ao Nang at these hotels, or ferry trips to any of the islands. Just be prepared to be accosted by taxi drivers and tour operators if you're blatantly adorned with backpacks. You walk down this street into the town centre, towards the river and along this road are clothes stores, places to hire motorbikes (for around 200bht/24hrs) and simple, tasty and cheap restaurants.

The main stretch of road in Krabi runs parallel to the river and has a 7/11, and internet rooms along with a market that is open in the morning and comes alive at night. This was one of my favourite markets in Thailand as it was small enough not to overwhelm and it had a very cool local hotspot vibe to it. Not to mention, this market had the cheapest prices we ever found for clothing, food, jewellery and the all important same same raybans!

The next day we set off at about 8am after an affordable 30bht breakfast, to the Tiger Temple on motorbike, which took about 20mins. It is such a random array of buildings, shaped hedges and statues that it's hard to know where to go at first but there are signs to lead you to the main temple. We got there after the monks had finished their morning prayers and they invited us in afterwards and we received our own wee blessing! You then sneak up a set of steps and it just becomes a rock cave with a statue of a tiger in it - again rather random but come on, this is an exciting country. I don't know why people have a whinge over things that aren't amazingly interesting, everything is an adventure to see if you have the right attitude.

You then need to tackle the 1267 steps up to a giant gold buddha before the day gets to hot or you'll fill your daily swear quota in 10mins flat. But it's so worth it - the view is amazing and the giant gold buddha was second only in grandeur to the reclining buddha in Wat Pho Bangkok. There are no rabid monkeys anywhere so no need to worry about them. Overall, this is a great activity and takes about 2 1/2 hrs to enjoy.

We spent 2 nights in Krabi town and i think that's enough. We then went to Ao Nang and the two although close to each other, are so completely different.
- Sights & activities
- History & culture
- Scenery & environment
- Eat & drink
- Traveller's scene
- Romance
- Value for money
- I'll be back (or not)
By lilnzowl (dabbler)
Written on 12th September, 2011 after a visit to Krabi in April, 2011

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