Ranong

Ranong reviews

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• Little Chang - Enigma Island

  Little Ko Chang in the north Andaman out of Ranong is a bit of an enigma.
  No way could you class it as non-touristy like say Libong, Sukorn, Siboya, Kho Khao or Phra Tong - there are at least 20 bungalow joints on this small mountainous island. But they are all backpacker standard - I don’t think there is an aircon room on the whole joint and I think you may be pushing for hot water. All the places have generators. I only saw 3 low key beach bars all of which seemed far enough from accommodation that noise would be no problem. I wandered around most of the island and saw only two 4 wheeled vehicles. I don’t think there is a songthaew and I didn’t see any motorcycle taxis. The overall vibe is seriously low key and relaxed.
  
  The place seems to appeal to old hands wanting to an find an island like Tao, Phangan, Chang (eastern Gulf) etc were like in the “old days”. And to stay a while longer than normal. I was struck by the lack of gap year girl and lager lout types. What we had here were young couples, families and a few other younger travelers mainly Euro in origin, particularly German. Aint it interesting how the Germans flock to the more out of the way places? Plus more than the usual number of older long term traveller types - with a new visa a relatively simple two long tail trips away, you can see the attraction. But there didn’t seem to be many of the expats taking a few days on an island after the Burmese visa run you see on neighbouring Ko Phayam.
  On my latest trip I also saw an enthusiastic bunch of older Euro retirees particularly at Cashew Resort - apparently they spend the worst 2-4 months of their homelands' winters on little Chang. Not stupid.
  
  The main beach area is Ao Yai on the west coast - a 3km long curved beach with about 15 small bungalow joints (well Cashew aint so small). The nicest section for good sand, deep water low tide and killer sunsets is the northern part, particulary the first 300 or so metres. I particularly liked the looks of Andaman Hill Bungalows against the northern corner with some neat looking bungalows built up the steep hillside.
  
  This latest trip I stayed at Cashew Resort a bit further south spread over about 300m of beachfront with several rows of huts - but also ome cheaper options a good 200m from the beach in the “jungle” behind. Cashew is popular - all the places near the beach were taken so I got the jungle. At 250baht with bathroom it was good value. Cashew’s restaurant is set back more from the beach than most places on Northern Yai, food good, prices towards the lower end of budget bungalow restaurants with plenty of mains under 100 including rice, small Changs 45 (March 2011)
  
  In 2006 I stayed in a very good bungalow at Sawasdee way down the south end of Yai., 250b then, now 350. Food excellent, very nice hosts. I noticed they have doubled the number of bungalows they had before(5).
  
  Want more chilled? Walk the bridge at south Ao Yai and take the path over the low saddle 400m to Ao Laetawan, a small and very laid back beach with 3 old-style places. Thorn Treee Little Chang long termers like bilp may be interested than Mama has located from Ao Siad to here.
  
  Ao Siad aka Ao Lek - this is in the south of the island, best accessed off the Ko Phayam ferry. Having watched people bail out here on several Phayam trips I just had to spend some time this latest trip. I stayed at Tommy’s Garden which is on its own separate small beach west of the main one. The main beach is not as nice as Ao Yai, but the chill factor makes up for this. A few places I researched had closed down but Ao Lek Bungalows was going strong. The Green Banana beach bar looked pretty funky.
  
  Tommy’s Garden was a sweet place, running about 80% capacity when I visited, mostly long termers. It has a nice, inexpensive beachfront restaurant with killer views of Phayam. About half a dozen beachside bungalows at 300b - another 4 or 5 250b huts on the hillside behind. All with bathroom.
  My hillside job was a real old-style backpacker thatch wall job. It wasn’t a patch on the same priced Cashew joint, but hell, 250 baht with bathroom away from low season in the Andaman aint too common.
  
  Even more relaxed than Ao Siad? Well maybe one of the 3 small beaches on the north west coast with just one bunalow place each. Research Hornbill, Contex and Rasta Baby.

  • Sights & activities
  • History & culture
  • Scenery & environment
  • Eat & drink
  • Traveller's scene
  • Romance
  • Value for money
  • I'll be back (or not)

  By tezza (dabbler)
  Written on 13th May, 2011 after a visit to Ranong in March, 2011

  Also reviewed by tezza: Ao Phang Nga National Marine Park, Coral and Raya Islands, Haad Nopphara Thara, Haad Sai Khao, Kanchanaburi, Khao Lak, Ko Bulon Lae, Ko Kho Khao, Ko Kut, Ko Lipe,

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