Ko Adang

The impressive tropical mountains of Ko Adang loom over Ko Lipe like a protective uncle, and its rugged jungle terrain makes for a refreshing break from the packed beaches of Lipe, or a quiet, nature-oriented experience for those who want to skip Lipe altogether. With its pristine old growth forests, plenty of hiking trails, ocean viewpoints, deserted whitesand beaches, excellent snorkelling and secluded waterfalls, Adang is well worth the trip.

Passengers are dropped off on the beach and can walk up to Adang's Information Centre, where the friendly park officials provide accommodation and activity info. There's an information panel that describes some of the varied colourful coral around Ko Adang -- some look like flowers, mountains, deer or cabbages. Snorkellers and divers with lesser imaginations still rave about the coral formations around Adang which have been reasonably well protected. Snorkels can be rented for 50B, but keep an eye out for spiky sea urchins!

There are two waterfalls on Adang. Ratana waterfall is best reached by longtail boat -- the going rate at time of writing was 200B per person for the round trip. Toward the end of the dry season, from February to April, Ratana slows to a trickle, but Pirate's Falls -- where pirates of old would hide their loot among the giant cavernous boulders -- is easily reached by a two kilometre-long walkway and is worth visiting any time of year.

There's also a series of viewpoints on Chadoe Cliff with stunning viiews of Ko Lipe, Ko Rawi and even Ko Tarutao far to the east. Longtails can be hired to other sights on and around Adang, including a black-sand beach to the north of the island. Prices range from 1,500-2,500B per boat, so it's best arranged with a group.

While most come just for the day, staying on Ko Adang is an opportunity to enjoy some serious peace and quiet, and if you've been on crowded Lipe for a while a night on Adang will bring you back down to earth. Accommodation can be booked through the visitor's centre at Pakbara pier (T:(074) 783 485), online (http://www.dnp.go.th), or you can see what's available upon arrival, but during Thai holidays accommodation can be booked solid.

Ko Adang's accommodation closes between May 15 and November 15, but during slow season daytrips are still possible from Lipe.

There are no ATMs on Ko Adang. Park officials cannot accept credit cards or travellers cheques, nor exchange foreign currency, so make sure to bring cash.