Despite being one of the least developed parts of the island, Ko Pha Ngan's north coast, with the fishing village of Chaloklum at its centre has a surprisingly good range of beaches and accommodation to choose from. This stretch of beaches and bays has something for everyone -- from families with young children to night-owls and outdoorsy types to dedicated hammock-swingers. Ao Chaloklum is the largest bay, sweeping across from the west to around the centre of the north coast. Further to the east lies the miniscule Haad Khom, followed by the ever-increasingly popular Haad Khuad.

Ao Chaloklum
Chaloklum is Ko Pha Ngan's second port and also a major fishing village. Despite it having a selection of budget and midrange accommodations, Chaloklum has not been influenced by the influx of tourists in the same manner as other parts of the island and the village maintains a very authentic, almost charming, Thai atmosphere.

The central part of the bay is dominated by a couple of piers, stacks of fishing boats and that authentic fishy sea smell you either love or hate. Due to the fishing boats, the water around the central area gets a bit murky and it's not great for swimming. Head to either the east or west extreme for much better beaches and water conditions. The western beach is peaceful and quite lovely with plenty of tree cover bordering the sandy beach, and an offshore breakwater provides a good deal of shelter. To the east, the beach is even better, and here you will find the majority of Chaloklum's guesthouses and beach bungalows.

The town has a handful of very good Thai seafood restaurants, so if you stay in the area, be sure to wander into town at least once. There isn't much night life to speak of -- the bars are primarily small and simple, frequented mostly by locals and fishermen, but several of the bungalow operations provide good drinks in a relaxed atmosphere right on the beach. The Chinese temple just to the south of the village, on the road to Thong Sala is worth checking out as well, with its colourful Chinese architecture and several beautiful Buddha images.

Haad Khom
Haad Khom is a top spot if you'd like to stay away from the hordes but still be on a lovely beach and enjoy some of the best hospitality on Ko Pha Ngan. Although quite small, the beach here is beautiful with plentiful shade, squeaky white sand and crystal clear water. While the beach and shallow sea aren't as beautiful or good for swimming as Bottle Beach, Haad Khom has a much more chilled-out vibe these days, feeling more isolated than it actually is. Locals often boast it's the best place for snorkelling on the entire island. An extensive living coral reef offshore provides vast sea life to be explored; equipment can be borrowed or rented from most bungalow operators.

The range of guesthouses is good, with options for most budgets and there's also a couple of great eateries. Most bungalows actually sit uphill rather than on the beach, but a few are on the sand, and none are too far removed. Electricity is only provided from approximately 18:00 to midnight daily, but it's really not necessary other times.

It's about a 15-minute walk from Haad Khom to Chaloklum or about a two-hour hike to Bottle Beach, though the trail is poorly maintained if it doesn't see frequent foot traffic, so wear sturdy shoes and be prepared for one hell of a trek. If the tide is out, it's much easier to walk to Chaloklum along the beach rather than along the steep, dirt road. If you are walking to Bottle Beach, go over the hill, NOT around the rocks!

Bottle Beach
Once a largely undiscovered little gem isolated in the north of Ko Pha Ngan, Haad Khuad, better known to westerners as Bottle Beach, has become one of the most popular backpacker destinations on the island and continues to attract more new and repeat visitors. The crowd here consists mostly of younger sun worshippers, though it's a popular day trip destination frequented by boat tour operators from around the island. In spite of its rapidly-growing popularity, Bottle Beach still remains a relatively quiet and lovely spot to escape the worst crowds.

Soft white sand surrounded by green hills and rocky palm-fringed headlands make this long, gently sweeping beach an ideal location. The crystal clear water is deep enough for some good swimming, and plenty of sun and shade alike are available for flopping in the sand.

There are only four resorts on the beach -- and thankfully no room for any more. These are all good options, most very basic and cheap, although some of the newer units are more comfortable and quite a bit spendier. They all have their charms and some laid-back restaurants and bars to choose from.

Orientation
Of Chaloklum, Haad Khom and Bottle Beach, the latter is by far the most isolated, but even there, most services are readily available -- the only thing you'll need to go out of your way to find is an ATM.

Chaloklum has just about everything a traveller could want or need -- including the only ATMs in the area and money exchange kiosks. There's also a couple of small markets, a good-sized pharmacy, a 7-eleven, book shops and plenty of travel agencies dotted through the village's narrow streets. While most resorts offer laundry services, you'll also find small mom and pop operations (where mom does most of the work) in Chaloklum itself.

On Haad Khom you'll find a small travel agent at Coral Bay Bungalow, and the host at Coconut Beach is a wealth of information about the region. Coral Bay can also help with your laundry (50B/kilo).

Bottle Beach is relatively undveloped but most services can be found here. Snacks and basic supplies can be purchased in most bungalow receptions, and Haad Khuad Bungalow, AKA Bottle Beach 3, has a decent little shop with internet access (3B/minute), money exchange and travel booking.