Ko Samui
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Back in the days when backpackers to Southeast Asia were first discovering Ko Samui in the 1970s, a basic thatched hut with running water and electricity was considered luxury. Now Ko Samui is home to some of Thailand's best luxury resorts and in the popularity stakes is surpassed only by Phuket.
With an international airport, a mass of ferry connections and close to 500 hotels and guesthouses, this is not somewhere to come to glimpse a corner of the Thai kingdom untouched by tourism development. One good thing about tourism development on the island is the written law that no building may be taller than the nearest coconut palm; this means that, unlike Phuket, tall apartment blocks and hotels do not ruin the skyline. The highest building is about four storeys high, and bungalow-type accommodation is still the style that is most abundant.
Samui and its neighbouring islands were first inhabited by Malay fishermen from the mainland as well as immigrants from Southern China who took advantage of a surrounding sea teeming with fish. The Chinese influence is still evident on Samui, especially at Fisherman's Village, where rows of Chinese shophouses sit next to European-influenced buildings and create a village atmosphere. The island is home to several Chinese temples and Chinese New Year is celebrated with a bang, literally, at the temple near the Mae Nam walking street market.
Despite today's crowds, if you're hunting for white-sand beaches, turquoise waters and all-day sun, Samui can be a fine choice and our Ko Samui travel guide should help you to find the best beach, guesthouse or hotel for your needs. Use Samui as a base to explore the neighbouring islands of Ko Pha Ngan and Ko Tao, as well as the Ang Thong National Marine Park. The islands and the park are both only a short boat or ferry trip away.
With a population of about 40,000 residents, and more than a million visitors a year, Ko Samui's inadequate infrastructure is at breaking point. While at the turn of the millennium development continued unabated, over the past five years there seems to be more control over where and how development happens. Local government has spent big on improving infrastructure such as roads and drainage after the floods of November 2010 and March 2011 proved that there was a need for drastic improvement. Resorts team together to maintain the beaches, and after storms, they quickly clean up and repair any damage.
There is very little recorded history of Samui, and there are two schools of thought on how the name came about. The first is derived from a commonly found tree called a "mui". The second and more popular theory is that the name comes from the Chinese word "saboey", meaning 'safe haven', which it was to the original Chinese fishermen.
Before the crowds drag themselves out of bed, popular Chaweng and Lamai remain pretty, while on the north side, quieter Mae Nam has a growing reputation. Of course there are many other beaches worth investigating, such as Choeng Mon and Bophut, and quiet secluded bays in the west and south -- don't make the mistake of spending your entire Ko Samui sojourn on just the one stretch of sand.
Ko Samui has a large expat community, with the majority being from the UK, France, Germany, Scandinavia and Russia. The island has several good schools, and boasts the UK affiliated International School of Samui to cater to both expat kids as well as those of wealthier Thais. Many locals can speak a fair amount of English, being exposed to so many foreigners, and with tourism being the island's main income. Samui offers many modern conveniences, with supermarkets such as Tesco Lotus, Big C and Macro. The island has a bowling alley and cinema, five hospitals, and an abundance of optometrists, dentists and pharmacies. It does not at this stage have the large shopping malls of Phuket.
With all of these Western influences, some may consider Samui to no longer represent "real Thailand", but, like much of Thailand, a degree of Westernised development is part and parcel with the ever-changing Thai nation and, as everywhere in the country, pockets of a more traditional way of life remain. One only has to attend a buffalo fight, bird singing competition, or authentic muay Thai fight to see where the locals congregate in their free time.
Among all this development, some stunning resorts have appeared on the island. If budget is of no concern, then Samui has some terrific options for serious pampering -- and best of all you'll not need to leave the resort. For those on tighter budgets, bargains can be found in areas such as Mae Nam and Fisherman's Village.
Related reading
What's a good beach on Ko Samui?
Dive Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan & Ko Tao
Bangkok to Ko Samui, Pha Ngan & Tao
Do I need reservations for my holiday?
Check Ko Samui hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Text and/or map last updated on 25th May, 2012.
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Onward travel
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Lamai Beach
Chaweng Beach
Thong Ta Kien Bay
Bophut Beach
Mae Nam Beach
Ko Samui South Coast
Big Buddha Beach
Taling Ngam Beach
Ban Tai
Choeng Mon Beach
The above are all within 200km of Ko Samui.
From the blogs
Review: The Sundays Sanctuary Resort & Spa, Bophut, Ko Samui
8:32 pm, 12 Jun 2013
Review: Maya Buri Boutique Resort, Bang Rak, Ko Samui
11:41 pm, 6 Jun 2013
Review: Baobab restaurant, Lamai, Ko Samui
1:01 am, 5 Jun 2013
Flights to and from Ko Samui
10:09 pm, 31 May 2013
Elfe’s World dog and cat refuge, Ko Samui
10:11 pm, 29 May 2013
Medical facilities on Samui
9:20 pm, 23 May 2013
Beach massage on Samui
1:36 am, 22 May 2013
Self-catering on Samui
1:05 am, 18 May 2013
Samui Regatta 2013
12:20 am, 14 May 2013
Review: Sunset Resort, Bang Rak, Ko Samui
4:28 am, 7 May 2013
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Book Online
Absolute Sanctuary Hotel
88 Moo 5, BohputFrom: US$173.00 with Agoda
AKWA Guesthouse
28/12 Chewang Beach Road Koh SamuiFrom: US$21.54 with HostelWorld
Akwa Guesthouse
28/12 Chaweng BeachFrom: US$25.00 with Agoda
Al's Hut Hotel
159/86 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach BophutFrom: US$47.00 with Agoda
Al's Laemson Resort
154/14-15 Moo 2, Bo PhutFrom: US$87.00 with Agoda
Al's Resort
162/21 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, BopResort DistrictFrom: US$67.00 with Agoda
Aloha Apartment
77/2 Moo 3, Tambom MaretFrom: US$20.00 with Agoda
Am Samui Palace Hotel
124/39 M. 3 T. Maret, LamaiFrom: US$67.00 with Agoda
Am Samui Resort
39 Moo 3From: US$43.00 with Agoda
Amarin Victoria Resort
12/71 Moo 1, Tumbol Mae Nam, Koh Samui, SuratthaniFrom: US$48.24 with HostelWorld
Amarin Victoria Resort
12/7 Moo 1, T. MaenamFrom: US$33.00 with Agoda
Ampha Place Hotel
67/59 Moo 1From: US$37.00 with Agoda
Anantara Bophut Resort & Spa Koh Samui
99/9 Moo.1 T.Bo PhutFrom: US$196.00 with Agoda
Anantara Lawana Resort & Spa
92/1 Moo 2, Tambon BophutFrom: US$197.00 with Agoda








Ko Samui reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Khun Aeh restaurant, Choeng Mon Beach, Samui
If you are visiting Choeng Mon Beach and tire of the tourist type eateries, walk along Moo 5 towards Bophut and you'll discover Khun Aeh Restaurant - one of Choeng Mon's hidden gems. Don't be put off by the basic seating and decor alongside neighbouring restaurants, the Thai food here is some of the best I've eaten in and around the area, and at a fraction of the price. The added value comes from the team, Geoffry & Wow, who are friendly, helpful and welcoming. We ate there many times as we couldn't find anywhere which matched the delicious food, staff and price. The only thing missing in this place are lots of customers - I suspect this is because it's the last restaurant on the street and overlooked for its looks by hungry tourists. I'm starving now just thinking about the food!!
By Kate1978 (dabbler)
Written on 14th April, 2013 after a visit to Ko Samui in February, 2013
Samui (Lamai) 4 star luxury at 3 star price
It is true that Samui continues to be developed but the beaches are world's better than Phuket and noise level is lower too save the loud speakers advertising Muay Thai along the main roads.
Although I love Chaweng beach soft powdery sand, I decided to try a new 4 Star hotel in Lamai called Buddy Oriental Samui Beach Resort as it was offering great rates even over the holidays. I originally booked two nights and ended up staying 12...it resembles the famous Raffles Hotel in Singapore but at a three star price. Buddy Resort is quiet because it is not in the main part of Lamai beach/town but it is on the ring road so transport is easy to Lamai or Chaweng.
Within the hotel complex is a fantastic Italian Restaurant with good wine list, American style burger place, Coffee World, Chom Talay Seafood/Thai restaurant on the beach and my fav hangout was Mulligan's Irish Pub. The manager Albert and his staff offer great happy hour specials to accompany the variety of western and thai food on offer.
One rainy afternoon I enjoyed a great Hot Stone Massage at Kinnaree Spa for the fraction of what it would cost in the west.
On the hotel grounds is a wonderful convenience store call CoCo which is owned by the Villa Market chain in Bangkok. This means you can buy nice cheese and other imported items we crave while traveling.
The hotel offers two pools, one at the beach which is great since this part of Lamai beach is not usable for sunbathing. There is also a Kids Club with babysitting if you are traveling with little ones.
If you decide to explore Lamai, there is a great new restaurant called Sydney's Fish n Chips inside the Tesco Lotus. I know what you are thinking, sounds like the Aussie version of Long John Silver's fast food in America. Far from it, this new restaurant is owned by the former executive chef (Aussie) of the posh Evason Resort and his Thai wife so the food is fantastic. Yes, they have fish and chips but also healthy options like grilled fish with a nice salad, or thai inspired fish burgers that are yummy. If you must have meat, they also offer burgers with meat. And delicious mango cheesecake. I have been there three times in one week!
Even though I am staying at Buddy Oriental Samui Resort I still go to Chaweng Beach for Indian food which I crave often. Noori India continues to serve delicious meals time after time which is an amazing feat anywhere in the world.
And I learned from the Manager, DeDe that he is now offering Indian Cooking Classes in Samui so I may just have to try one of those classes to see if I can replicate Noori India's meals at home...wishful thinking for sure.
By andreahkg (dabbler)
Written on 10th January, 2011 after a visit to Ko Samui in January, 2011
Samui Still Has It
Who says you can't find laid-back, scenic, good-value places on Samui these days? Try Jungle Club high in the hills behind Chaweng Noi with 180 degree panoramic views from the horizon-style pool, the hillside sitting-bales or the Bali-style restaurant.
You can check the coastline stretching from Choeng Mon/Ko Maitang in the north, down thru Chaweng and Chaweng Noi to the area around Coral Cove in the south. Accommodation here starts at backpacker/flashpacker level and goes thru midrange.
And who says you can't find a quiet, scenic white-sand beach with good value accommodation on the popular east coast of Samui within a few minutes of the shopping and entertainment of Lamai and Chaweng?
Get yourself to Thong Ta Kien, a small bay at the start of the hilly section of coastline between Lamai and Chaweng. There are four bungalow joints on this bay and since first seeing it way back I'd been determined to stay here some day.
The sand is white and the water very clear. At lower tide levels the far end of the bay becomes very shallow and there is a section of rocks mid-bay which is exposed. However the western section is sandy right out into deeper water, which at lowest tide is maybe 30m out to be deep enough to swim. Closer to the beach is nice for pottering around looking at fishies etc - or snorkelling when the tide is up. I also snorkelled along the western headland - there were small patches of fringing coral, but mainly mono-colour and underwhelming. Thongtakian Resort is a good value place on this beach with lower midrange rooms at flashpacker prices.
Here's another who says - that you can't get a beachfront budget bungalow of the old style on Lamai these days. New Hut has share-bathroom A-frame bungalows right on the sand were going for 350B high season. One the other side of the atmospheric beachfront restaurant were bigger places with bathroom for 450B.
The beach in front has a reef which runs down the northern third Lamai forming a shallow lagoon at low tide, way too shallow for swimming in most places. Some people like this because it allows for some fossicking or just sitting around in a shallow pool of water. Deeper water for swimming is available starting five minutes further south -- the centre and south end of the beach have no reef and good water depth low tide.
Again, who says you can't get a reasonably priced beachfront place on Chaweng Beach? Check out OP Bungalows (owned by the same people as P&P Samui Resort) which gets good posts on travel forums. Air-con - hot water bungalows were going for 1,050B when I called around.
OP is situated on a particularly nice section of sand about one quarter down from the northern end where the beach does a curve. This area also has a reef which creates a shallow lagoon at low tide. Central and southern Chaweng have no reef - low tide water is deep enough for swimming but you may have to go out a bit further than similar areas at Lamai.
Lamai's sand is pretty white, but Chaweng is even more so. Actually these are real attractive beaches - the resorts are stylish and not Miami Beach re-created.
I won't even start on the more laid back north coast or sparsely developed west and south coasts. Plenty more nice areas and good value accommodation.
By tezza (dabbler)
Written on 5th September, 2009 after a visit to Ko Samui in August, 2009
Also reviewed by tezza: Ao Phang Nga National Marine Park, Coral and Raya Islands, Haad Nopphara Thara, Haad Sai Khao, Kanchanaburi, Khao Lak, Ko Bulon Lae, Ko Kho Khao, Ko Kut, Ko Lipe,