Hue
Travel Guide
The historic capital of Vietnam, Hue, sits astride a truly majestic and beautiful river, the Song Huong (Perfume River). The north-bank is host to its share of hotels and restaurants, but the area is dominated by the old fortified city known as the Citadel, spread across more than 5 square kilometres of ground, crowding out development on that side of the river. As a result, guesthouses, hotels and restaurants have sprung up on the south bank, starting with the river road, Le Loi Street, and stretching further south. The south bank of the river has been developed as park cum promenade, with an eclectic variety of public sculptures on display.
Hue is the capital of Thua Thien Province, with a population of about 340,000. Its location in central Vietnam, just south of the DMZ, made it a scene of heavy fighting during the American War. It's 15km west of the South China Sea and about 540km south of Hanoi and 644km north of Saigon. While the city is also known for the manufacture of textiles and cement, tourism has become its bread and butter.
Hue's complex history has earned it a reputation as a political, cultural and religious centre, but nowadays, visitors to contemporary Hue will find a city that only dimly reflects on its past, and only does so as a begrudging nod to its western visitors. Like Halong Bay to the north, the complex of tombs, pagodas and palaces throughout Hue and its surrounds has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. But to the Vietnamese psyche, shaped by centuries of war and struggle, tempered by nearly forty years of communist rule, this heritage is largely irrelevant and completely disconnected from the present. The overwhelming sense one gets from the city, on even the most casual visit, is of an unstoppable forward drive, and of a people constantly looking to the future.
But the profitability of tourism has lead to a paradoxical situation where, in order to move forward, the citizens of Hue must pry open those doors to the past they would rather leave shut. As a result, the tourist industry here has developed into a half-hearted attempt to give the foreigners what they want and send them on their way. While this has been effective in one sense -- a steady stream of tourists keeps showing up and paying for tours -- in the larger scheme it has also meant many poorly-run tours and disappointed travellers.
At the moment, Hue is a premier tourist destination mostly in theory. In practice, it's still a work in progress. That notwithstanding, it's a beautiful, vibrant city, with great places to stay, great food, and a number of interesting things to do, on and off the well-worn tourist trail of historic attractions.
Advice on tours in Hue
Basically, if you want to be sure to enjoy the 'culture tour,' you're going to have to pay for it. The only consistently worthwhile tours we've heard of, or taken ourselves, were private tours where you get to roll your own itinerary. It needn't be that expensive. A day-long tour by motorbike should be US$7, by car, $40 for 2 people, and by Minivan, $60 for up to 10 people. Some tours include admission: the Citadel, and three tombs: Tu Duc, Khai Dinh, and Minh Mang, are all 55,000 VND, so be sure to factor that in to the price. All other sites are free of charge.
As a rule of thumb, go for a small group tour booked through a reputable company rather than a 'guide on the street.' That said, we met some good guides on the street, and some crappy guides that worked through companies. So, in either case, being able to size up your guide makes the critical difference.
Be sure to invite your guide to sit down for a drink and discuss the specifics before you commit. It doesn't matter what you drink -- green tea is just as appropriate as beer -- but this is how Vietnamese do business. Take your time, talk about things other than the tour, and leave yourself an out from the beginning, in case you're not happy, i.e., "I'm waiting for my friends to come into town, so I'm not sure when I want to go..." Gauge the extent of your guide's knowledge and language skills. Use your gut. If they strike you as creepy or obnoxious, that's not just the culture barrier. The best guides are cool dudes you want to spend more time with. That's what you're looking for.
We found an excellent guide, Mr. Thanh, who was full of interesting information, a took us on a very creative route to see some of the major sites. If he's not available, he can probably hook you up with another guide.
Other than Mr. Thanh, there are good guides to be hired at Stop and Go Cafe and people seem quite happy with the tours out of Cafe on Thu Wheels, though some of the guides don't speak much English. Also, Mandarin Cafe has a good steady reputation. Some of the better independent guides have staked their claim on Le Loi across from La Residence Hotel -- their ringleader is Mr. Tho.
Stop and Go Cafe: 18 Ben Nghe St, Hue. T: (054) 827 051
Cafe on Thu Wheels: 3/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong, Hue. T: (054) 832 241. E-mail: minhthuhue@yahoo.com. Hours: 06:00 to 23:00
Le Cong Thanh (Mr. Thanh): 1/2 To Hien Thanh, Hue. T: (054) 531 760, (0905) 290 039. E-mail: lethanh2006@yahoo.com.vn.
Mandarin Cafe: 24 Tran Cao Van, Hue. T: (054) 821 281. mandarin@dng.vnn.vn.
Mr. Tho: T: (0905) 376 609
Even if you have a guide, a lot of the onus still falls on you to make sure you see the sites you want to see. Most guides will happily take you anywhere you want to go, but if you don't speak up, they'll just take you to the most convenient spots for them.
Touring the Sites on your Own
Otherwise, skip the tour altogether and do it on your own. Take your time. Don't try to see everything -- just target a few key spots. Expect nothing much more than you would from a lovely, relaxed day in the park, and you'll avoid some of the frustrations and let-downs we keep hearing about.
Everything can be visited by car, bicycle, or motorbike on your own. However, everything worth seeing is dubiously marked, and there are a lot of fuzzy maps available that put things in the wrong location. We wonder if this isn't partly by design since it forces people to book a tour.
But a great way to wile away the hours in Hue on a beautiful day is to try to find some place on your own anyway, get lost, see the countryside, stop along the way, and you'll eventually wind up some place interesting, even if it isn't the place you were heading for when you set out!
Related reading
Doing the DMZ from Hue
Check Hue hotel rates on Agoda. Best price guarantee!
Accommodation: South bank
Bao Minh Hotel |
Canh Tien |
Green Hotel |
Halo |
Hoang Huong Guest House |
Mimosa Guest House |
Phuoc An Hotel (DMZ Guest House) |
Phuong Hoang |
Thanh Thuy's Guest House |
Van Xuan |
Accommodation: Around Dap Da Bridge
Gia Long |
Hoan Thien |
Thanh Binh (Peace Hotel) |
Thanh Thien 1 Hotel |
Tigon Hotel |
Accommodation: Along Le Loi
Amigo Hotel |
Hong Thien Guest House |
Hotel Saigon Morin |
La Residence |
Accommodation: South of Le Loi
Asia Hotel |
Binh Duong I + III |
Diem Nghiep Hotel |
Hoa Hong Hotel |
Hung Vuong Inn |
Imperial Hotel |
Phong Nha |
Sports Hotel |
Accommodation: North Bank, Citadel
Duc Loi |
Ngoc Phu |
Thuong Thu |
Text and/or map last updated on 21st August, 2009.
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Hai Dang Hotel
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Hong Thien
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Hue Backpackers Hostel
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Hue Holiday Hotel
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Huenino Hotel
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Hue reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Hue - Mr. Thanh email
FYI - The correct email address for Mr. Thanh is:
lcthanh2006@yahoo.com
By mattsale (dabbler)
Written on 19th May, 2012 after a visit to Hue in May, 2012
Hue - Get your adventure face on
We arrived in from Vinh at around 7:30 am and were greeted with sweltering heat - welcome to Vinh.
We were promptly loaded into a taxi and whisked away to our hotel. About 40 dong later and we were at our hotel's doorstep, ready to check in. Unfortunately an early check-in couldn't be promptly accommodated. Instead, we cooled off atop the hotel in the pool - surrounded by views of the city. This was almost worth the nightly rate alone.
Shortly after lunch, we checked in and were ready to set sail on the city. But not before calling up a trusted tour guide - recommended by other travelers on travelfish...Mr. Thanh.
After calling Mr. Thanh at (0905) 290 039 he agreed to meet us in the early afternoon, for a 4 hour tour around the Hue city center and cultural / heritage sites. I am a motorbike driver back home so getting up to speed on a motorbike in Nam was not too difficult. I drove a fully automatic motorbike which made it easier, but for those who are comfortable on a motorbike a manual one should suffice. The manual one is cheaper and more fun in my opinion.
We visited many pagodas, Buddha monuments, temples, war history sites, and the old city center among other attractions. We drove the motorbike all through the city. It was a full 4 hours of site seeing.
While on the tour with Mr. Thanh, I sought out a custom suit and Mr. Thanh worked as the liaison between the tailor shop and I. I was very impressed with his patience, and honesty in dealing with me. My experiences over the past 2 weeks in Vietnam have shown me that there are many, many more people trying to rip you off than there are trying to be fair. Mr. Thanh is a gem in the rough.
Now, after purchasing 1 suit, which took only 24 hours by the way to make, I decided to extend more trust to Mr. Thanh and purchase suits to be shipped to my hotel in another city in Vietnam (Saigon). I entrusted Mr. Thanh with ensuring the tailor did in fact ship the suits, to my specification, and not run away with my money. Not only did the suits come, to my specification, but Mr. Thanh kept me up to date on the progress of the shipment throughout my waiting period. If you need anything in Vietnam - ask Mr. Thanh.
His correct contact details are:
Le Cong Thanh (Mr. Thanh)
1/2 To Hien Thanh, Hue
T: (054) 531 760
M: (0905) 290 039
E-mail: lcthanh2006@yahoo.com.vn
Note: His email address in the travelfish web page is incorrect.
By mattsale (dabbler)
Written on 19th May, 2012 after a visit to Hue in May, 2012
I like this I like that I like it
There is a lot of good stuff already said about Hue here - but i'll just summarize my thoughts really quickly. I like that the city wall is not refurbished and has trees growing all over it, I like that there are random gates open up that you can walk through, and I like how friendly the kids are without asking for money. I like that there is a backpacker-bar area, but that it is a small area, localized, and easy enough to get to and get away from. I like the slow pace of life and the quiet streets.
I don't like that it seems to rain no matter when you are visiting and no matter if it is not raining only 50 km away. This place and the surrounding area could easily be enjoyed for three nights and I could see myself returning to explore parts that I did not hit my first time through.
Highly recommend the train ride between Hue and Da Nang.
By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 1st February, 2012 after a visit to Hue in January, 2012
Also reviewed by caseyprich: Battambang, Can Tho, Champasak, China Beach, Da Nang, Don Dhet, Gili Meno, Hoi An, Kampot, Kawah Ijen,
Hue. Refreshingly non-touristy.
I was in Hue for 3 days mid-May and had a great time exploring the city through a motorbike tour to the nearby temples and renting a bicycle to tour around the city. I didn't eat at any of the Western-style restaurants and just found local street food and small restaurants and found the food delicious. Especially the Banh Xeo with Nem (Shrimp pancake with grilled sausage) and Barbecued Frog, and healthy glasses of sugarcane juice (Nuoc Mia).
I also found the people incredibly friendly compared to the rest of Viet Nam, although perhaps sometimes with ulterior motives. I was invited out to eat with local people two of the nights that I was there, and although I did pay for dinner, had a great time and felt at ease. Locals seem to speak much more English than places further North.
I did the motorbike tour of local pagodas and a subsequent day long motorbike trip to Hoi An, stopping at the Elephant Springs, French and American war bunkers, the Marble Mountains and China Beach with a great drive and guide named Nam. His number is : 090599650. Great bargain and a great time.
I stayed at Mimosa Guest House, which is very cheap and well located, and the manager, Lum is a great resource.
12/66 Le Loi St, Hue. T: (054) 828 068.
I highly recommend Nam as a guide, and the trip to Hoi An was gorgeous- skip the bus if you're heading that way!
By chazact (dabbler)
Written on 6th June, 2011 after a visit to Hue in May, 2011
Best city in Vietnam
I've visited Hue many times over the last decade and love it more each time I go. I suppose my favourite activity is just wandering about the streets, especially on the citadel side of the river. You could also ride a bicycle or take a cyclo ride (bargain hard) in this area. There are lots of beautiful gardens, interesting shops, great street food and some pretty classy houses.
The three great tombs in Hue, Minh Mang, Kai Dinh and Tu Duc are all worth the couple of dollars they cost to get in, but I also like to see those that are being renovated, currently free. Worth doing if you have the time. I've seen many of the tombs a number of times over the years and it's interesting to see the changes each time.
Getting out to the country is a joy. There's an old bridge, similar to the so-called 'Japanese' bridge in Hoi An, and the tiny village around it, the beautiful old village that Ho Chi Minh grew up in and I saw women washing in the river, people winnowing with baskets, as well as some very old and simple farm machinery. It's such a beautiful place. I want out there once with a guide on a bike and once on the local bus.
The old forbidden city can take most of the day to see everything. I love wandering round the backpaths and finding all the little buildings, some beautifully restored, some still in poor condition. Last visit I saw a rehearsal by local performers of a dance for the National Day, held behind the theatre there.
There are old palaces, a tiger arena, soo many beautiful pagodas, and markets in every corner of the city. As well as the Big C - a truly awful supermarket.
By violets (dabbler)
Written on 22nd October, 2010 after a visit to Hue in May, 2010
Also reviewed by violets: Bac Ha, Hanoi, Pleiku, Thanh Hoa,
Eating in Hue around Nguyen Tri Phuong
I have been here for 10 days, staying in the Nguyen Tri Phuong backstreets. Each day, I have been trying the different restaurants around here and have been disappointed by the ones recommended in Lonely Planet.
First I went to Cafe on Thu Wheels - its popular but its "energetic owner" (Lonely Planet) has married a customer and moved to Switzerland, so its lost a lot of its buzz and atmosphere. The food I found average and a bit more expensive than it should be.
Then I went to Omar Khayyam's Indian Restaurant but found the food and atmosphere dull. Garish walls put me off. They have Italian food too though, maybe that's better?
Stop & Go Cafe is nice inside but I agree with sandabrite - its too expensive and the food portions small.
Then i went to Nina's Cafe - it's a the end of the Nguyen Tri Phuong backstreet and round the corner. This place was excellent and I went back 3 days in a row, eating breakfast, lunch and dinner. They have a mix of Western, Vietnamese and Hue dishes. The food here is the best I have eaten since in Vietnam. Pretty cheap too and the atmosphere really nice. The owners told me they've only been in business for about 6 months so aren't in the guidebooks. Popular with Japanese for some reason, maybe its in their GB.
The Japanese restaurant near the backstreets is also great - nice food and atmosphere, and its good to help the street children! It is more expensive than most restaurants however.
Ive also eaten further away from this area - I really like the Vegetarian Restaurant Bo De Restaurant - great vegetarian food, and cheap. The Floating Restaurant also has great food and views. Both are in Lonely Planet!
Hope this helps!
By paulsupermario (dabbler)
Written on 25th February, 2010 after a visit to Hue in February, 2010
Hue City, Vietnam: Picks and Pans.
I was in Hue with my family during May and June. This is the third time I've been to Hue, and it is my favorite city in all of Vietnam.
Some of my favorites:
The gorgeous countryside
The more than 300 pagodas, big and small, all beautiful.
The Perfume River, and watching river life.
The Floating Restaurant, next to the south end of the Truong Tien Bridge.
The You and Me Restaurant, at 38 Tran CAo Van, near the main street Hung Vuong. Great eats for families. A good place to meet both locals and other travellers. Their banana pancake is killer, and the "happy pancake", or banh Khoai, is a close second, if not a tie.
Mr. Trung and his incredibly informative and flexible tours. I found him at his office, when I ate at the You and Me Resto. (See above.) My kids loved him, and we learned more from him than we did on all our three trips to Vietnam in the last 10 years, including what we read in the guidebooks and on the net, in preparation. Though we had been to Hue before, he still showed us a lot of new stuff, and his English is good enough to answer all our questions. You can read more about our experience with him in the Travelfish article, Doing the DMZ from Hue.
Ghost City; tombs that look like castles. An extra plus is that they can be visited as part of a trip or tour to the Thuan An beach, where you can eat great, fresh caught seafood.
The DMZ; especially if you are a history buff. The Vinh Moc tunnels are a highlight, and more interesting than Cu Chi in the South.
Minh and Coco Restaurant, on Hung Vuong. The food is average, but the two sisters who own the place are super friendly.
The best iced coffee I've had in Vietnam - by the canal, accross the street from #30 Bach Dang Street, on the North side of the Perfume River. Also arguably the cleanest sidewalk food and coffee in the country. There are two women who set up shop here about 6 in the morning. One does the coffee and sandwiches, while the other one keeps a bubbling pot of soup going. They close when they run out, about 9 or 9:30 a.m.
There is so much more, but these were our favorites.
A few not-so-greats:
We visited the Stop and Go Cafe, on Tran Cao Van, and were really disappointed in the food. We found the prices very high, and the portions really small. The service was friendly, but it didn't make up for the lacklustre food. Everything seemed watered down to try to please the Western palate. When my wife asked if this was the case, the waitress confirmed it, saying that Westerners can not eat real Vietnamese food.
We tried to visit the B4 Bar on Ben Nghe, as we had gone there a few years ago, but it is gone. It is still listed in Travelfish, but apparently closed one or two years ago.
Cafe on Thu Wheels, listed above, in the Travelfish article, is another huge disappointment. Our hotel was nearby, so we went in twice,because the kids liked all the grafitti, and we passed by it every day. The decor is very entertaining, and it seems like a great place to meet other foreigners, but the food is not Vietnamese, and we never saw a single local person eat here. When we asked about tour prices, we found them higher than average, though we met other travellers there, who said the tours were ok, fairly average excursions.
My biggest pan has to go to pretty much all the guidebooks, for not giving this gorgeous, historical, ancient capital fair coverage. There is SO much to see and do, but sadly, every tourist I met was only staying for one or two days. Some were only waiting for the connecting bus to another city. I recommend staying for a week, and trying to see some of the things that aren't in the guidebooks.
By sandabrite (dabbler)
Written on 4th July, 2009 after a visit to Hue in June, 2009
Hue; Picks and Pans.
I have been in Vietnam many times, and love Hue best of all. Here are some of my faves, and some not so faves. For my ratings, please note that I think almost everything is a 10 for Hue, except for food, where the 10 goes to Saigon, because of the sheer diversity of food there, and for the traveller scene, well, the problem is that most travellers don't realize how much there is to do in Hue, so they don't stay long enough.
So, here we go: PICKS:
Things to see: The Royal Tombs, the countryside, over 300 pagodas, Sunsets on the Perfume River, riverlife, Ghost City, which is near Thuan An Beach, My An Hotsprings...
Things to eat:
Banh - About 8 or 10 different types of one- or two-bite sized morsels, based on rice flour, usually with some kind of filling based on shrimp and pork, or mung bean, sometimes wrapped in a leaf, and usually eaten with a dipping sauce. The best are often the ones sold from mid-afternoon on, by the street vendors.
Bun Bo Hue - the local version of beef noodle soup. This is what locals eat for breakfast.
Places to eat:
The Floating Restaurant - Right beside the Trang Tien Bridge, on the right side of the foot of the bridge on the South Bank. Access from Le Loi Street. Great food, great view, good place to bring a group. Lots of both locals and travellers. Try all the fab seafood dishes.
You and Me Restaurant - 38 Tran Cao Van. Turn left off the main street, Hung Vuong, pass the Fancy Restaurant (also good)and go a few more meters. Good family fare, friendly service, definitely try the banana pancakes. Local music.
Lots of both travellers and locals. They say they have the coldest beer here, and they may be right. Try the Huda Beer, brewed right in this city.
Tinh Gia Vien - Imperial Dinner. 20/3 Le Thanh Ton. Quite expensive, for a resto in Hue, but worth it to go once, for the experience of a traditional royal-style dinner. However, I have to say that my eyes enjoyed it more than my tastebuds. The presentation was 10/10 but the flavor, about 7 or 8/10.
Tours:
Mr. Trung - email: nguyenvantrungdmz @ yahoo.com
I found him at the You and Me, listed above. I had read some reviews of him, and decided to give him a try. Best decision I made! I can't think of a single bad thing to say about him, and my kids loved him. You can read a more detailed review of my experience with him inthe comment section for the story » Doing the DMZ from Hue.
Coffee:
on the banks of the Canal -opposite number 30 Bach Dang
I found a small but immaculately clean little coffee stand, just a short walk from Dong Ba Market. Walk east from the market, cross the Gia Hoi Bridge, turn onto Bach Dang on your left, and walk about 2 or 3 minutes. In the morning, from about 6:30 until 9 or so, there is a young woman who serves the absolutely most delicious, and arguably cheapest ice coffee in Hue. For 4000 dong, choose black, sugar, or condensed milk. Or hot, if the weather is uncooperative. (In bad weather, she puts up a tarp). If you are hungry, there is a second woman at the same spot, who serves a local type of noodle soup, very tasty.
another good place for coffee is the roof of the Phu Xuan Bookstore, Tran Hung Dao st. accross the street from the foot of the Trang Tien Bridge on the North Bank. Alot more expensive, but lots of choices, and a great view.
And now, a few PANS:
The washrooms at the Dong Ba Market: Just avoid them if you can. No need to say more.
Stop and Go Cafe - 25 Tran Cao Van. Seriously disappointing. I found the food expensive and inauthentic. The huge grins pasted on the faces of the rather obsequious servers didn't really improve the experience. What a disappointment. This resto used to be in another location, and had great reviews, so perhaps they have changed owners.
The 55ish year old xe om driver parked at the corner of Hung Vuong and a small side street, who befriended my kids, and then invited my family for coffee. He then made us pay for it, and we were grossly overcharged. I'm including this pan as a warning; be careful when you accept invitations from locals that you don't really know; it often leads to requests for money, or to being scammed. I met many tourists who had similar experiences.
Stay tuned for more Hue picks and pans.
By sandabrite (dabbler)
Written on 30th June, 2009 after a visit to Hue in June, 2009