Hanoi
Travel Guide
Hanoi, one of the most beautiful of the colonial Indochinese cities, is often the start or end point of a trip to Vietnam, and what a great welcome or farewell it is. Oozing with charm, Hanoi has gone through wholesale changes since Vietnam swung open its doors to tourism, but it remains true to its essential personality and is an amazing city to experience.
Though considerably quieter than big sister Saigon, Hanoi still retains a vibrant atmosphere. From the early hours until late at night, the fig-tree shaded streets swarm with careening motorbikes, often with four, five or even six people aboard. A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are making a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot.
It seems that in Hanoi, no two streets meet at 90 degrees and there so many one-way thoroughfares it sometimes feels like you can't get there from here, nor here from there. Count on getting lost. But a day of dodging traffic and elbowing your way through overcrowded footpaths is exactly how most people spend their time in Hanoi, and it's more fun than any purpose-built tourist attraction. Keep a map close at hand though, so when you find something that tickles your fancy, you can mark it down -- otherwise you risk never finding it again.
Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer's afternoon -- Lenin Park, south of Hoan Kiem district and just north of Bay Kau Lake are among the most popular, especially on holidays, when it's packed with picnickers.
In winter months, you can find yourself a cozy cafe to snuggle up in, or find a streetside restaurant boiling up a pot of something belly-warming and delicious. While Hanoians are certainly happy to be free of the French occupation, they continue to embrace French culinary culture.
Big, fat, fresh baguettes are sold everywhere, good for a pate sandwich or smeared with the ubiquitous Laughing Cow cheese. The coffee is world class -- served strong and rich in demitasses -- with the best blends being smooth and chocolatey. Wine is widely available, though inadequate storage and rotation lead to some bad bottles.
Specialty places like The Warehouse on Hang Trong are good for a wide, reliable selection of domestic and foreign vintages. And, of course, the pasteries beckon too. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of patisseries spread all over the city boasting decadent but very affordable treats.
Finally, the people of Hanoi are some of the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the city's cyclo drivers speak some English and often have intriguing pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners.
In Hanoi, you may find yourself sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, nibbling a pastry, chatting in French to an old gentleman sporting a beret, while looking out on a vista of French-style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. You may begin to doubt that you got off the plane in the right city. But then, sitting at a streetside restaurant, slurping up a bowl of bun cha with a side of fresh springrolls, watching the 'yoke ladies' trundle by in their conical hats, hawking their wares -- nope, it's not Paris warmed over ... It's full-on Hanoi, a city to be savoured.
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Text and/or map last updated on 21st August, 2009.
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Hanoi reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
a special place called Hanoi
Too many travelers to Hanoi never meet a real Hanoian (the average citizen who does not work in the hotel, restaurant or tour business), and this is sad. After several trips to this town, I look on Hanoi as a second home, and I care about friends I have made here. In spite of the scamming cabs, pollution and traffic headaches, Hanoi is just plain electric (much like New York City). I think the wise traveler will overlook the problems this city has, and adapt to it's unique qualities. For such a large city, I consider Hanoi to be quite safe, and there are few places on Earth quite as interesting. I was last here in Dec '10, but I've also been here in Oct '09, March '09 and March '08 (and now considering Nov '12). The very best quality of Hanoi are it's wonderful outgoing people (especially the students of Hanoikids Club)!
By daawgon (dabbler)
Written on 24th December, 2011 after a visit to Hanoi in December, 2010
Hanoi, Old City Quarter -1st Stop
Have spent two full days in Hanoi...going to Ha Long Bay for a two day, one night cruise tomorrow. This city is busy, noisy, entertaining and full of scams! Looking forward to moving onto a new city. Visited the Ho Chi Minh museum..the mausoleum is closed this time of year, Temple of Literature, Hao Lo Prison, St. Joseph's Cathedral, and the Ngoc Son Temple. This is my first stop on my first backpacking journey, not much to compare to...Be careful of bicycle taxis & regular taxis...they will try to rip you off..the meters aren't always accurate.
By briannabloch (dabbler)
Written on 28th October, 2011 after a visit to Hanoi in October, 2011
A great city but can be hard work
I stayed here for 5 weeks in 2007 and really loved it. Came back last year and found it was a much more difficult place to be, partly because it is so popular. My lovely little local hotel had become a noisy backpacker hostel and the traffic had become almost intolerable at peak times. However it is still a magnificent city with great variety and lots to see.
Don't miss the Temple of Literature, the beautiful pagodas at West lake, the ethnology museum (catch a 14 bus from the top of Hoan Kim lake), the old quarter (try to avoid the tourist part), some of the many good museums- especially Hoa Loa, eating on the street, the presidential palace and the Ho Chi Minh museum, and the botanic gardens. There are also great parks and lakes in all parts of the city and they are very enjoyable to walk in, especially early in the morning. My favourite thing to do is wander around the streets of different parts of Hanoi and given its expansion in the last ten years I've found there's always a new area or some changes to find. The bus service is great so it's easy to get out to an area and find your way back. I rarely catch cabs and have now given up the xe oms in such bad traffic.
Another thing that makes Hanoi a good location is the number of services that appeal to westerners out of their comfort zone- swimming pools, gyms, film venues, jazz clubs, delis and supermarkets and great restaurants and cafes of all persuasions. And every cheap (well not so cheap these days) hotel I stayed in had free wifi. It's easier to find an affordable room with good services and great food than any other big city I've ever stayed in (NY, London, Paris included)
I'm not keen on the big tourist areas where the highest prices, biggest scams and least Vietnamese culture is, but plenty of people like that, and there's a pretty strong, young traveller scene. Like the best big cities, there's something for everyone.
By violets (dabbler)
Written on 29th March, 2011 after a visit to Hanoi in April, 2010
Also reviewed by violets: Bac Ha, Hue, Pleiku, Thanh Hoa,
Fantastic city
Oddly enough, I have a very different opinion of Hanoi as I chose to live here. Even when I came as a tourist I loved it. I generally don't spend long in cities when travelling but I think Hanoi has so much to offer and clearly others do too - I've met a lot of backpackers who have been here for a couple of weeks, just chilling. If you just want a party, no, the nightlife's not that varied, but there's plenty for a few nights. I'm not going to ramble on too much here about the city but I just wanted to offer an alternative opinion to the post above. Of course not everyone loves it but try it and see!
By travellingsarah (dabbler)
Written on 11th January, 2011 after a visit to Hanoi in January, 2011
smog, noise, chaos
Don't give the city more than a day - in my opinion its a thoroughly unpleasant place. You'll constantly be on the lookout for mopeds about to run you over, nightlife is rather crap, its incredibly noisy, and the air is the worst I've experienced outside of Lahore. Sights are really nothing to get excited about with the exception of the military complex ....
In short, use this as a way point for Sapa or Ha Long, but don't plan it as a destination.
By bjluecke (dabbler)
Written on 29th December, 2010 after a visit to Hanoi in January, 2010