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Nestled on the periphery of Vietnam's fabulous Ha Long Bay, Cat Ba Island is big -- over 350 square kilometres, but most tourists see but a sliver of it.
Put ashore during their various Ha Long Bay excursions, tourists spend most of their time in a small area on and around Cat Ba Harbour -- that's where just about all the accommodation is, and across the harbour road, there's a long promenade skirting the water -- in the evenings it becomes a make-shift beer garden, with dozens of places vying for customers to sit at plastic tables and tip a glass or two of bia hoi.
The bay provides a pleasant view, dotted with fishing boats and floating restaurants, and hosting it's share of smouldering sunsets on the western horizon. In addition to hotels and restaurants, the harbour road also features a handful of 'massage parlours' in front of which, would-be 'masseuses' hang out in the evenings, aggressively soliciting male customers as they pass by. A local has informed us that one of these places actually offers real massages. But we won't tell you which one.
An overnight on Cat Ba is de rigueur for many of the 3-day tours of Ha Long Bay, assuring a steady trickle of tourists, even in the off season. In the summer, it's a premier spot for Hanoians to take a quick summer vacation -- most people only get about three days off from work each year.
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