Can Tho
Travel Guide
The Delta's Can Tho province sprawls westwards from the eponymous provincial capital along the southern bank of the Bassac (Hau) River -- the larger of the two branches of the Mekong River. Bordered to the west by An Giang and Tien Giang provinces, to the south by Hau Giang and to the north, on the other side of the river, by Vinh Long and Dong Thap, Can Tho province is one of the most popular Delta destinations among travellers and tourists alike.
The province is actually a municipality which was given provincial status when it was carved out of the larger original province (also called Can Tho) in 2004. The remainder forms the new province of Hau Giang which lies to the south. This elevated status reflects Can Tho's importance in the region, both as a trading and transportation hub and as home to the Delta's largest city.
The Delta is often refered to as Vietnam's rice basket, and Can Tho province, with its tremendously fertile soil is one of the largest producers in the region. Aside from rice, it also grows masses of fruit from its many orchards and farms and it's these goods which tourists flock to see in the floating markets dotted around the capital.
Crisscrossed by a tremendous array of tributaries and canals feeding water-borne traffic into the Bassac River, the sheer volume and incredible variety of boats and ships never fails to amaze and a trip along the backwaters can be a fascinating insight into the rural way of life in this beautiful province.
Home to over a million people, Can Tho City is the logical hub for anyone planning on exploring the province. With a wealth of hotels and guesthouses, a very well developed and affordable tourism infrastructure, a healthy supply of eateries and a selection of interesting floating markets within easy reach, it really is difficult to fault -- if you've got time for just one destination in the Delta, this is where you should be heading.
The main reason visitors come to Can Tho is to tour the nearby floating markets. While these are highly recommended, the riverfront promenade itself is also pleasant with some good places to eat and relax in. The city has a good range of accommodation from cheap backpacker haunts right through to comfortable mid-range digs and its urbane atmosphere contrasts to the more rural feel of the towns further out in the Delta.
While the majority of people opt to visit Can Tho as a part of a tour from Saigon, unless you are really short of time this is a poor choice. Spend a night or two in Can Tho, see the floating markets independently and enjoy the riverside setting -- you'll thank yourself later.
Accommodation: Can Tho
Golf Hotel |
Hien Guest House |
Hotel 27 |
Hotel 31 |
Huy Hoang Hotel |
Khach San Quoc Te |
Saigon Cantho Hotel |
Tay Ho Hotel |
Text and/or map last updated on 21st August, 2009.
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Can Tho reviews
Backchat from the Travelfish community
Updated Review
Wrote a review in 2010 and have to say that the city is just as friendly as before, and the place even more alive this year - still jsut at the tail end of Tet. This time came with a friend for 3 nights and enjoyed the entire time. Though there isn't that much to do, just hanging out and drinking coffee is the vibe of the place and that is what you should do to soak up the atmosphere.
Last year I met some nice people in the old neighborhood west of teh boardwalk, and this year I've found that a stroll along the 'lake' in the same area will open up to many little cafes to enjoy an afternoon at. We got ambushed by some 60+ year olds who started chatting and that turned into our being invivited to enjoy their last day of Tet lunch with them and put back a number of Saigon Beers.
Once again, can't recommend a trip to Can Tho enough. So suprised there hasn't been more build-up around the 'lake', but the area around the boardwalk is improved and I'm sure eventually someone is going to get smart enough to set up a hostel here that will act as a magnate for backpacker types. So not much of a traveller scene - yet . . . and the morning canal ride can be romantic as long as long as the water level is higher than it was on this last trip (though wasn't looking for it this time).
By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 19th February, 2013 after a visit to Can Tho in February, 2013
Also reviewed by caseyprich: Battambang, Champasak, China Beach, Da Nang, Don Dhet, Gili Meno, Hoi An, Hue, Kampot, Kawah Ijen,
Busy city with sprawling waterways
According to guide books Can Tho is the biggest city in the Mekong Delta and it shows, Can Tho is bustling with activity on and off the water. The riverside/tourist area is packed with fruit stalls, street vendors and masses of other random things being sold, my favourites bing the cacti and papaya tree stands in the middle of the riverfront road.
The main activity here is the floating market tour and you can book a boat trip through a company, or just take a walk down to the riverfront and you will quickly be offered / pestered to take a tour by touts. We paid $10 each to share a boat with two other travellers. The going rate for a private boat seemed to be $30, or to join one of the big tours, the cost is $16 a head so we were happy with what we paid. Our guide didn't speak much english, but we had fun nonetheless, checking out the early morning trading between wholesalers and retailers, and cruising the waterways.
We stayed in Queen hotel past 31b and it was great. We checked out 4 of the $10 places down on the riverfront and this was the nicest, offering newly refurbished en suite rooms, with air con, tvs and a fridge. Definately check it out!
By dj_gomas (dabbler)
Written on 1st February, 2013 after a visit to Can Tho in January, 2013
Can Tho
We are currently visiting Can Tho and are very happy with our experiences so far, except our dealing with Mr Triet. Our dealings started with Mr Triet booking us into his (I think) hotel the Phoung Tran in Ninh Kieu, which incidently is not in the city even though that is how it is advertised on Agoda. It is about 3.5km from the city. As soon as we walked in the door Mr Triet was trying to sell us a floating market trip for USD70 and a homestay Can Tho to Saigon trip for USD210. We lasted about 2 hours at this hotel and decided that it was worth losing our USD32 to get out and find somewhere else that had beds we could actually sleep in and did not smell like stale smoke and mould. Luckily we were able to find a nice hotel with much better staff and facilities around the corner for USD10 less. By this time it was 10.30 at night and we were exhausted wishing that we had never come to Can Tho.
However the next day we had a great time exploring the markets near our hotel, not sure what they are called but they are well worth a visit, they are situated on the water and are the produce markets for the locals. It is the first time we have seen frogs being prepared for sale, fresh seafood actually jumping out onto the floor, moutains of chillies and much much more. Then we moved to the Saigon Can Tho hotel, which is actally in the city, and we have had a fantastic time since.
Today we did our floating market tour with a lady named Hung (that is how I pronounce it) and we paid USD40, which to some might seem expensive, however this lady worked very hard taking us to 2 floating markets and around Fruit Island for a total of 6 hours. We also bought her lunch and a drink and happily gave her a tip at the end. During our tour she wove us a beautiful sculpture from palm leaves and made our daughter a ring and bracelet out of palm leaves, she a made a little girl very happy. We had a great time but it is worth mentioning that the coffee at the floating market was pretty bad (at least to my coffee expert husband) and it was a very bright hot day so come prepared to battle the heat. All in all it was fantastic and Fruit Island (if that's what it is called, please excuse my ignorance) was a good experience, the food was excellent, the best Pho Beef so far and we got to hold snakes, drink home made Banana and Jackfruit wine and meet a lovely family who run a really nice homestay.
This is a great cit to visit, even though there are some people just out to take your money our experience so far is that the locals here are not pushy, they are fairly reserved and for the most part seem to be honest. It is a pleasure to walk around the markets in the city and not be harrassed to buy something. The children are also delightful.
By Madstar (dabbler)
Written on 20th May, 2011 after a visit to Can Tho in May, 2011
Solo girl in the Mekong Delta
"Boat rental lady? Out to markets lady?" It seemed that every five steps along Can Tho's riverside promenade, I was being asked about what my transport requirements may be. I had come to this particular area of Vietnam specifically to check out the daily floating markets that trade their wares within the fingers of water that comprise the delta of the Mekong River.
Having read and heard a few stories about less than desirable business operators in this particular area, it was with a certain level of trepidation that I began my negotiations in earnest with a certain Mr. Triet. We discussed our ages and places of birth which is most helpful in determining whether his English is far superior to my Vietnamese (an indispensable requirement in my case). Suddenly another "gent" boldly interrupted the process and managed to almost scare off Mr. Triet. Since I have met a few scoundrel types through the years and in one case of very poor judgment actually married one — I seem to have acquired a spider like sense of when someone is full of a certain waste product. With the head ringing from that "flight" instinct in full force I continued to walk down the promenade looking for a better deal.
A few moments later Mr. Triet appeared by my side and laughed. I made some comment about slime and he laughed even harder, pointing to some long boats moored below us in the water and stating that these were part of his family's fleet. My heart was saying this was an honest man and we sealed the deal alongside the floating flotilla. My $20 was swapped for his little piece of paper that stated "Warm service and the fair price". He then ushered me back down the promenade to an empty space and said to be there at 0530hrs the next morning and that he would bring me some red bananas for breakfast.
Normally I never give out money for little pieces of paper from strangers in a town that is notorious for its crafty "communist" capitalists. However, as I retired back to quarters that evening I was not too concerned. There was something very genuine about Mr. Triet and I fell asleep with the dreams of cameras getting wet and Beanie, my stuffed dog travelling buddy, falling into the Mekong.
Morning came with a start that only a 0430hr alarm can deliver. The travelling schedule had not been gruelling but I was at the point where after my fingers shot off the IPod alarm, that the next task was to remember a) where I am and b) why exactly was my alarm set? The former is not too much a challenge but the later can be rather confusing. Did I have to pack up and catch a bus/boat or train? Did I have to be somewhere to shoot a sunrise with only my camera gear on my back? The good news is in the countries of SE Asia everyone is up with the sun. Roosters, children, dogs and the sounds of horns beeping get one's body moving up and "at it" effectively.
After a quick cold rinse to get the head clear and the blood pumping I headed out towards the Quay of Can Tho. I can be anywhere on earth and always find that this is my favourite time of the day. There is something so special that the breaking dawn brings. A fresh new start, the promise of adventure, new people to meet and new discoveries to behold — it is all one's choice how to approach it.
The brisk walk from my outlying hotel to the Quay clears the cob webs out and once again I wondered if I would even see Mr. Triet and my water chariot. The day's light was just breaking into the horizon when I arrived at the predetermined pick up. Two boats were hitched up but no people around — suddenly from behind I hear a jovial "Good morning". Turning I spot a glowing smile on my baseball cap attired guide complete with the promised red bananas and fresh baguettes (French colonialism left some wonderful traditions in this area of the world)!
Casting off at 0520hrs we head out into the morning throngs of boat traffic into the main channel of the river. Barges heaped with different soils, wooden fishing boats, single long boats overflowing with fresh produce and the extra large transports packed with fellow sleepy eyed tourists. All traffic headed with purpose to a destination of commerce.
Mr. Triet's boat is slower than the big "bus type" Can Tho Tourist specials. As we plug along up the river the sun begins its climb into the sky that provides a canvas of color that only nature can paint. Boats pass by us and Mr. Triet exclaims out loud and points behind us to the stunning burst of red and orange that has made their morning appearance on the horizon.
Communication between us is stilted but he is most informative and I felt again the inadequacy of my own education and at the same time, my good fortune of at least being able to speak English.
Suddenly the channel narrows and there is a congestion of boat traffic of all sizes and shapes. I am informed that we are arriving at the world famous Cai Rang Floating Market. As we drift into the congregation of boats of various capacity loaded down with fresh food, it is pointed out to me that the staffs hovering above the vessels display the items on board. So if one is in the market for pineapples, simply look for a boat with pineapples hoisted up the pole.
In many ways the floating market reminds me of the streets of Vietnam — whoever has the big ship rules the road. We found ourselves in a complete gridlock when suddenly from behind another small boat with two white guys as passenger's steams full throttle into the mix. At the helm — a woman whom I distinctly remembered from earlier in the morning trying coerce me onto her boat. There was much shouting and laughter as she pushed her way through the crowd, but what made it even better was when Mr. Triet informed me that she was his sister! A family affair indeed.
The option was presented to travel further upstream and visit another market, but I was completely enjoying my time here. The bigger tourist boats overloaded with all mixes of race and cameras ploughed through the market and never even slowed down. Camera lens hung over the edge of them, with guides on speakers loudly shouting out what people were seeing. I made a request that we simply stay here and float back and forth a few times through the exchange.
In a matter of minutes a lady drifted up alongside our tender and offered iced coffee and cigarettes. I jumped all over the java and Mr. Triet purchased the tobacco option. I shared an experience around the "local" bus ride I had the previous day from Chau Doc where the driver's swamper had cigarettes taped to his body and ripped them off prior to arrival into Can Tho. It is interesting that we find a common ground between the power of the black market in his country due to the communist's thumb and in my own country the illegal trade of the same products through our First Nations Tribes. After agreeing how feeble both efforts were in controlling anything we sat bobbing up and down as tourists and vendors steamed by on either side of our little boat. Without warning a finely crafted pineapple appeared in my face — the juices' drizzling off of it and Mr. Triet proudly offering the surprise to complete my breakfast on the Mekong. How fortunate I was to have found a guide whose smile and attitude was infectious to all around!
The market was beginning to dwindle so we headed off into a nearby channel that stepped deeper into the delta. Abruptly I found myself drifting through a jungle canopy of palm and mango trees dripping with fruit. The channels were narrow and the life abundant. Birds trilling, fish skipping and people waking up to the morning chores that these banks have witnessed for hundreds of years. A time machine lifted my little boat back to an era that one would think long gone when on the streets of the cities in the area. Just that easy — it could have been 1610 or 2010, simply hard to comprehend that two worlds can coexist so close in proximity.
I never imagined even ten years ago that I would be venturing into worlds like this where I have the honour of meeting a Mr. Triet, of tasting fresh pineapple on a little old wooden boat in the Mekong Delta, of seeing a child's face light up when they see a wacky Canadian woman with her little stuffed dog waving and smiling at them — of learning to trust and have faith in all the good that humanity has to offer.
Can I ever really describe how blessed this life can be if one only opens one's self to embrace it?
Peace and safe journeys — wherever you find yourself on this little rock we call home.
Safe journey.
Cheryl & Beanie the best travelled stuffed dog on earth!
PS – Mr. Triet's business card states he may be contacted in Can Tho at 0913 618 056 or via email at triet_quang@hotmail.com – or just head down to the Quay and look for an honest man with a big smile!
By chergood (dabbler)
Written on 15th November, 2010 after a visit to Can Tho in November, 2010
Also reviewed by chergood: Muang Ngoi, Nong Kiaow,
Where you want to get lost
I first want to give my highest recommendation for a trip to Can Tho. Though during Tet the floating market was down to a small hand full of boats - the coffee on the water and later the cruise through the canals (on a two person junk) was a great way to start the one day we had there. As well, the many local markets just 15 minutes walk west of the river are a wonderful place to get some hand-shaved iced, find a clean and smokey cafe to get a coffee in to beat the heat, or just bumble through narrow alley-streets. Go up Ngo Quyen toward An Cu District and when the streets turn into alleys take a right, maybe a left, then get lost in the market -(Cho An Cu?).
However - keep in mind that with the bridge down it takes awhile to get on the ferry across the river, at least it did during Tet (for more information on getting to Can Tho you can look on the Vietnam Forum).
Go to Can Tho - where 1 day feels like 3 . . . um, I mean that in a good way.
By caseyprich (dabbler)
Written on 3rd March, 2010 after a visit to Can Tho in February, 2010
Also reviewed by caseyprich: Battambang, Champasak, China Beach, Da Nang, Don Dhet, Gili Meno, Hoi An, Hue, Kampot, Kawah Ijen,