Superlatives flow easily when it comes to Phu Quoc. Stunning, beautiful, rugged, deserted, jungle covered, unadulterated, white sand, turquoise waters and on and on and on.

And it's all true.

We've seen many an island in Southeast Asia, and we've never stumbled across somewhere quite like Phu Quoc. The mix of isolated, totally deserted beaches and a few thriving yet unadultereated Vietnamese towns, make Phu Quoc a rare find indeed.

Given its ease of access (a 21 minute flight from Rach Gia or an hour flight from Saigon) it's amazing the island isn't far more developed than it already is, and while the Vietnamese government have huge plans for the islands, these plans are so far, totally unrealised and hopefully will remain just on paper for the forseeable future.

The island has something for everyone -- really! Ringed by over a dozen bays and beaches -- some yellow sand, others brilliant strips of white sand, with an archipelago of islets off its south coast, a jungle covered interior and a handful of fishing villages, there is enough to do for a longer stay than you may be planning.

Hoteliers report that some guests do nothing more than the daily bungalow-beach-restaurant-beach-bungalow circuit for days on end -- for couples in particular, Phu Quoc is a favourite. But with a motorbike and a map, there's loads of exploring you could do here and while some of the beaches are under military control, the majority are open to the public.

Many leave Phu Quoc as their final stop in Vietnam before leaving, only to find that a couple of nights just isn't enough. As a result, flights are changed and itineraries are revised -- so take it from us, revise your itinerary upfront and be sure to allow yourself enough time on Phu Quoc.

Orientation
Tear-drop shaped Phu Quoc has its capital at the town of Duong Dong, midway down the west coast of the island. The airport is right by Duong Dong and the vast majority of lodgings are within a five to thirty minute motorcycle ride of there. If you're arriving by ferry you'll find yourself at An Thoi at the southern tip of the island -- kind of convenient to the lovely Bai Sao Beach but not much else.

There are a few basic internet cafes in Duong Dong town -- the one facing onto the market is probably the most convenient, though out on the road to the airport there are a couple of larger, cleaner and more comfortable places.

The Saigon Phu Quoc Resort has an ATM and can exchange travellers' cheques. There is also a Vietcombank branch in Duong Dong town.

There are very basic medical facilities at both Ham Ninh and An Thoi, with the latter being the better, but for anything more serious than a hangover or a paper cut -- head to Saigon.