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The last of the north-central Vietnamese coastal provinces, Thanh Hoa sits before the provincial break-up dissolves into a patchwork quilt of thumb-sized mini-provinces scattered around Hanoi. The province and it's same named capital are, like the provinces directly to the south, ideal for travellers who want to get off the beaten track and see Vietnam at its most local.
That's to say, nobody much stops here because there's little to see or do in the traditional sightseeing sense.
We don't imagine a lot of travellers will choose to show up in Thanh Hoa unless they are determined to use the hard-scrabble border crossing at Na Maew / Nam Xoi, 175 km to the north-east.
But we were surprised on our visit to find a very pleasant town, with some good places to eat and drink and a charming market street along Ben Ngu Road in the north-eastern part of the city. You won't fail to notice Mat San Mountain, a looming limestone massif just to the west of town.
If nothing else, it's the kind of town we can heartily recommend if you're desperate to get off the tourist trail and actually visit Vietnam. A day or so here would be a great way to 'detox' after a visit to Ninh Binh before heading south.
The town can be used as a jumping off point for visiting about a dozen attractions in the interior and along the coast -- Sam Son Beach, 16 km to the south-east, the Ca Than Spring in Cam Luong District, 85 km to the north-west, and the 'National Gardens' at Ben En, 46 km to the south-west, just to name a few.
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