Hoa Binh

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Meaning "peace" in Vietnamese, Hoa Binh province is the gateway to Vietnam's northwest, strapped around the foothills of the mountains that run up from the plains. Well regarded for the trekking centre of Mai Chau, this province and it's capital of the same name, Hoa Binh, is a popular option with Hanoi-based travel agents who don't want to take their passengers too far.

The province is best known for the large reservoir which runs through its centre, and which was formed by the damming of the Song Da river. The river strikes to the northwest of Hoa Binh, well into Lai Chau province. Dammed for hydro-electric purposes almost 200 workers died during its construction and there's a monument to their memory at the dam site. The dam is one of the major driving forces behind Vietnam's surge of industrialisation and development in recent years.

Few independent travellers choose to spend much time in this provincial capital. It's not really far enough away to shake the chaos of Hanoi, and the scenery, while pretty, is far more impressive further out. If you're travelling under your own steam either Hoa Binh or Mai Chau make for convenient spots to break the journey -- but our vote would certainly go for Mai Chau if you were tossing up the two.

In and around Hoa Binh itself, the main activities typically include a boat trip up the Song Da river and a visit to a small, but interesting museum which displays some ancient human remains including an orangutan skeleton.

While the dam hardly constitutes an activity, some Vietnamese go on tours of it as a matter of national pride. Be sure to take a peek at it -- including the monument to the over 200 workers who died during the dam's construction -- before you leave town.

For most though, Hoa Binh is little more of a precusor to Mai Chau and the mountains of the northwest. Despite its distance from Hanoi, Hoa Binh's streets retain some of the manic chaos of the capital, and it's hardly a sleepy mountain hideaway -- despite what travel agents in Hanoi may tell you. To really escape the capital and discover the sleepy allure of the northwest, you'll need to head further afield.

 

Orientation
Hoa Binh is 74 km southwest of Hanoi. There isn't much to it -- Highway 6 is the main road through town, called Cu Chinh Lan or Phuong Lam at various points, which follows along the reservoir, about a block from the edge. It meets up with a four-way intersection, where the museum is located -- the dam and some restaurants are to the right, and going straight leads 61 km to Mai Chau. Going left you'll find Tran Hung Dao, which is a by pass road that eventually meets back up with the highway to Hanoi. You will find the post office and a few other government establishments located on this road, running parallel to Highway 6.

There are a number of ATMs in town which offer withdrawals from foreign cards. There are three main banks, with ATMs situated close to central market in town. The best, and most central is BIDV bank with an ATM that takes foreign cards, which can also handle foreign exchange. Western Union is also available in three different places along the main road in town, Highway 6.

The Post Office offers long distance services and is located on the bypass road running parallel to Highway 6 (away from the dam).

Internet is available throughout town, but we found a good place on Dien Bien Phu, which runs parallel to Cu Chinh Lan and also has some nice cafes.

BIDV: Cu Chinh Lan (across from number 200), Hoa Binh. T: (0218) 856 077. Hours: 07:30 to 11:30 and 13:30 to 16:30, closed Sundays.
Internet: 93 Dien Bien Phu, Hoa Binh. Hours: 07:30 to 23:00.
Post Office: Cu Chinh Lan, Hoa Binh. T: (0218) 853 859, F: (0218) 853 798. Hours: 06:30 to 21:30.

Text and/or map last updated on 21st August, 2009.

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