Mai Chau is a 139km trip from Hanoi, and 66km further on from Hoa Binh. Though it's not far, the trip from Hoa Binh to here takes almost two hours by motorbike due to the mountainous terrain. Mai Chau is in a valley just over the biggest hump, about 10km from the Song Da river and only 150 metres above sea level. The village, nestled between two towering cliffs and surrounded by emerald green paddies, is an enchanting sight as you wind down the cliff side.

Mai Chau itself presents an idyllic rural valley that could easily charm you into staying longer than intended. In spring Mai Chau is a bright, almost parrot-green and by autumn this green transforms into golden hues as the rice approaches harvest. Taking the time to watch these transitions of colour seems like a perfectly useful way to spend your life while in Mai Chau.

Those bemoaning the dearth of truly budget accommodation in Vietnam will be happy to learn that this is one place you can stay for a song. The star attraction here is a 'homestay' in a stilt house in one of the two ethnic White Thai villages, Ban Pom Coong and Ban Lac. But, it's hardly like trucking into a Karen village in northern Thailand and staying in the spare room of someone's house. The 'bare bones' accommodation here is purpose-built to give tourists the 'homestay' experience, while the watchful eye of the government makes sure they have western toilets, ample bedding, and sometimes even satellite TVs in the common rooms.

Ban Lac is the more developed of the two, and the main drag was packed with tourists and tour buses on our visit, people playing pool at an outdoor billiards table, and pop music blasting on a sound system somewhere. But this, surprisingly, does not spoil the fun all that much. The homestays are still run by ethnic minority families who have lived on and worked the land for generations, and it's heartening to see how the influx of tourist dollars hasn't changed their essential character, which we gauge to be as warm and easy-going as you please. Driving for a bargain here is a meandering lark through the countryside compared to Hanoi.

Orientation
Mai Chai is 5 km off highway 6, 135 km from Hanoi. You'll pass through the 'Vietnamese' town on the way to the stilt houses -- few will opt to stay in the former rather than the latter, but if you're looking for internet, long distance phone services, or any shopping needs beyond the very basic ones available in the villages, you'll need to head back into town during your stay.

You'll find the villages by proceeding through town, about 2 km from the centre, and taking a right at the Mai Chau lodge across the rice fields. The first village is Pom Coong, and Ban Lac is just a few hundred metres to the left.

Everything is located along the main road into town -- addresses are confusing and there's no agreement on what to call the road, but one trip up and down it is all you'll need to get oriented.

There is a cafe that serves coffee and food across the road from the entrance to the villages.
Cafe Hua Hoan: T: (018) 867 969. Hours: 07:00 to 22:00

There are no ATMs or banking options for travellers, but there is an Agribank that can convert dollars to dong, though your host in the village is likely to be no stranger to the greenback.
Agribank: Along the main road, Mai Chau. T: (018) 867 258. Hours: 07:30 to 11:30 and 13:00 to 15:30 Monday through Saturday

Internet is available at the Post Office for 2,000VND per hour, along with long distance telephone services .
Mai Chau Post Office: Tieu Khu II, along the main road, Mai Chau. T: (018) 867 209, F: (018) 867 353. Hours: 07:00 to 21:00, closed Sundays and Holidays

For any minor ailments there is a small hospital in Mai Chau, but for anything remotely serious, head to Hanoi.
Mai Chau Hospital: 185 Mai Chau Rd, Mai Chau. T: (018) 867 244. F: (018) 868 220

You can rent bicycles at most houses in the villages for 20- to 30,000 VND per day. Motorbikes can also be rented -- you'll just be given a bike usually used by a local for about 150,000 a day.