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Cambodia's largest, yet most sparsely populated province, Mondulkiri, lies at the heart of Cambodia's Wild East and attracts a steady trickle of independent travellers and backpackers lured by the idea of getting well off the beaten track. With only one dirt road leading to the tiny provincial capital of Sen Monorom, rest assured you're well off the tourist radar should you venture out here.
Getting to Sen Monorom is difficult, adding to its off-the-beaten-path allure. From Phnom Penh, it takes about 10 hours. The first half of the trip, to Snuol, is on smooth, paved roads. Once you pass Snuol, however, civilisation ends, and the road becomes a veritable roller coaster ride of bumps and potholes, your vehicle permanently cloaked in a cloud of red dust for the final five hours of the journey.
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