Luang Prabang

Sisavangvong Road, more easily remembered as Market Street, bisects the thumb-shaped stretch of land between the Mekong and the Nam Khan and lies at the heart of the city -- it is here that you'll find the main tourist necessities and hotspots. Note that this road changes name not twice, but three times within the main tourist track. Toward the tip of the thumb it is Sakkarin and southwest of the centre it becomes Chao Fa Ngum. Many streets in Luang Prabang are guilty of the same navigational trickery. Thankfully, the town is small enough that getting around shouldn't be a problem once you've got your bearings.

Following the straight course of the Mekong, Manthatoulat Road is lined with riverfront restaurants on one side and hotels on the other. A general rule: the closer you are to the riverfront, the higher the price of the room. If it's within your budget, some beautifully restored accommodation can be found here.

Another thing to consider as you're finding your way around is that each village is named for the nearby wat, and most addresses include a Ban Something-or-other to indicate it. So, even if there's no exact street address -- as there often isn't -- if you can find the wat (most of which are clearly labelled on maps) the place shouldn't be too far from it.

The BCEL ATMs charge a 20,000 kip service fee for international cards and the maximum withdrawal amount is 700,000 kip (about US$80). The ATMs are not always reliable, so it's wise to travel with a back-up source of funding such as travellers cheques or credit cards. A couple of tour agencies on Sisavangvong Road offer cash advances on your credit card for a commission of 4%. They charge your card in US dollars and give payment in kip at a bad exchange rate, so realistically the fee is closer to 8%.

Many Western cafes and restaurants in Luang Prabang now offer free WiFi to customers, and plenty of Internet cafes still remain around town (standard price of 100 kip per minute). You can make IDD telephone calls, or a local SIM card is very affordable (30,000 kip and up).

There are plenty of places in town to buy or exchange books. For new titles, head to Monument Books on a sidestreet off the Mekong. In addition to a smattering of fiction, they specialise in regional books covering everything from cooking to geography. The biggest selection of used books belongs to L'etranger just behind Phousi and next to Hive. Here you can buy, sell, rent and trade books alongside delectable munchies and drinks. The book exchange at Joy's is free to patrons. If you haven't eaten at the restaurant, taken a cooking class or bought art from the gallery (Joy's husband is a photographer), swapping out a book will cost 10,000 kip.

The post office -- La Poste -- in the centre of town provides the usual services in addition to Western Union money transfers, though you'll pay dearly for them. An outside company -- EMS -- handles international shipping from an outpost within the office. Their rates for overland international shipping are reasonable but packages will take a long time -- about three months -- to reach their final destinations. Air rates are much higher but come with a speedier delivery.

Medical services are available in Luang Prabang, but facilities aren't exactly up to Western standards. For anything more serious than a scrape you'll want to get to Thailand. It's a one hour flight to Chiang Mai. Travel insurance is a must for Laos and be sure you're covered for emergency evacuations, especially if you'll be trekking in remote areas. Pharmacies can be found throughout town and have quick cures for minor ailments like itchy bug bites, upset stomachs and sore throats.

BCEL main bank Sisavangvong Road: 08:30 – 15:30, closed Sundays. T: (071) 252 814
Chinese Hospital Setthathirat Rd, past the Southern bus station, Ban Phu Mok. T: (071) 254 026
Luang Prabang Provincial Hospital Open 24 hours, Setthathirat Road. T: (071) 252 049