Hua Phan province
Hua Phan rivals Phongsali for the title of Laos' most remote province. Mountainous and particularly scenic, the province has a mish-mashed network of dirt and sealed roads and lacklustre public transport to match. The going is slow in Hua Phan.
During Pathet Lao times, the provincial capital of Sam Neua (also spelt Xam Nua) and the nearby caves at Vieng Xai formed the Pathet Lao capital, and it was here and in equally remote Phongsali, that the Pathet Lao forces regrouped after the Geneva Accord.
Hua Phan gets only the most determined travellers passing through, as the going is slow and the delays commen. Neverthless many find it a very rewarding part of the country -- certainly one of the least-touristed parts of Laos.
You'll most likely find yourself using Sam Neua as a base for your explorations. Set in a small picturesque valley, with a good selection of guesthouses, you could do a lot worse.
If you have the time, try to leave some for Hua Phan -- it is worth the effort.
