Set astride the majestic Chao Phraya River, Bangkok was named the capital of Thailand in 1782 and today represents everything both good and bad in a thriving Asian metropolis. Krungthep or City of Angels as it is known to the locals, harbours enough sights and experiences to keep travellers occupied for months, with one of the best ways to grasp its splendour to simply wander through its streets.



In Bangkok, 24-hours a day, the pedestrian takes second place to the thousands of taxis, buses, motorbikes, tuk tuks, bicycles and private cars clogging the streets, as a heavy haze rises from the tar like steam from boiling water. Many find it exhilarating, for rare are the quiet moments and rarer still are the moments when you fail to feel utterly alive. Prepare to be accosted by the marvellous aromas drifting from food stalls interspersed with wafts of stinking canals and belching car exhausts.

Bangkok also has an excellent range of hotels and guesthouses. Home to two of the best hotels in the world, the Oriental Hotel and the Peninsula Hotel, the Bangkok's riverside is lined with many five star luxury spots while the backpacker's quarter of Khao San Road is overflowing with budget guesthouses and hostels. There's a place to stay for every budget - from two dollar a night Khao San Road hostels to four hundred dollar a night riverside pampered luxury.

Do give Bangkok a chance. Don't let the smog and crowds distract you from what can be a charming and invigorating city.

Bangkok Orientation
For the first time visitor, the sheer size of Bangkok can be quite intimidating, but with a bit of research and a willingness to get out and amongst it, it is pretty simple to get a handle on how the city works.

The "Old City" sits on Rattanakosin Island on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River and it is here that many of Bangkok's key attractions can be seen -- many of which are within walking distance of Khao San Rd. From the Old City, Sukhumvit is a few kilometres to the east, while Silom sits to the southeast.

Silom and Sukhumvit are interconnected by Bangkok's two mass-transit systems, the skytrain and the subway. Khao San Road can be reached from Sukhumvit Rd by canal boat, and from Silom Rd by the Chao Phraya Express ferries. Buses, taxis, tuk tuks and motorcycle taxis also connect all parts of the city. Traffic can be very heavy at times -- where possible use the subway, skytrain or the river ferries to get around.

If you're planning on walking around a lot, be sure to drink a lot of water as otherwise you will dehydrate quickly.

Bangkok is a city where doing less rather than more can be a very good way to approach the city. Get up early before the temperature begins to skyrocket and do one of two things in the morning, take a long leisurely break for lunch (don't plan on venturing out again before about 14:00) and then see one more attraction in the afternoon. Spend the late afternoon and the evening sampling its near endless supply of great food, drink and entertainment. Repeat this process for as many days as you're in Bangkok and you'll see your fill of the town at a relaxing pace -- try to see too much and you'll leave feeling like you need a holiday to get over it.

Where should I stay in Bangkok?
Bangkok has three main accommodation areas which are spread across different parts of the city;
Khao San Road is within easy walking distance of the Chao Phraya River, and packed with over 100 guesthouses and hotels, Khao San Road is the heart of the backpacker scene in Bangkok. Aside from the express ferry, Khao San is served by the public bus system.

Sukhumvit Road stretches out to the east of the city, and is Bangkok's expat ghetto -- characterised by 3-5 star hotels, excellent restaurants and nightlife and good mass-transit access.

Silom Road and the surrounding area south to Sathorn is as close to Bangkok gets to a CBD, with a mix of mid-range through to business hotel options along with a handful of budget places in the Soi Ngam Dupli area. Popular for its street markets, excellent food and vibrant nightlife, the area is also very well served by public transport.

For more information, take a look at our story: What is a good guesthouse in Bangkok?

What are some good Bangkok resources?
Aside from Travelfish, the best way to get the most out of Bangkok is to pick up a good map, a guidebook and to make a visit to the Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT)... you'll need the map to find them ;-).

There are hundreds of different Bangkok maps -- available as free-standing maps (for sale and free), in magazines, brochures and various flyers. Some of the more popular maps of Bangkok include (affiliate links):
Lonely Planet City Map Bangkok
Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok
Periplus Bangkok Travel Map
International Travel Maps and Books Bangkok City Map

The Official Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) office is extremely inconveniently located on Phetburi Road, although they do have two information counters at Don Muang International Airport. Be wary of other travel agents pretending to be an official TAT office -- the real TAT does not sell any kind of tour or trip whatsoever. Contact details for the official office are:
Tourism Authority of Thailand: 1600 New Phetchaburi Road, Bangkok 10400. T: (02) 250 5500 (120 automatic lines), Fax: (02) 250 5511. http://www.tourismthailand.org. Open daily 08:30-16:30
TAT Call Centre 1672: Operation hours 08:00-20:00

Loved or loathed, just about every traveller and backpacker you meet will have a guidebook. Here are some of the best-known publications (affiliate links):
Lonely Planet Bangkok
Mini Rough Guide to Bangkok
Moon Handbooks: Bangkok
Frommer's Comprehensive Travel Guide: Bangkok

There are two main English news daily newspapers in Bangkok, The Bangkok Post and The Nation. The Post runs its travel section on Thursday, the Nation on a Wednesday.

In the unlikely situation that you need to be hospitalised, rest assured Bangkok has some of the best hospitals and highest standards of medical care in Southeast Asia. Likewise the Tourist Police can be very helpful in an emergency.

Top hospitals in Bangkok include:
Bangkok Hospital: 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Rd, Bangkok 10310. T: (02) 310 3000, F: (02) 318 1546. http://www.bangkokhospital.com/
BNH Hospital: 9/1, Convent Road, Bangkok 10500. T: (02) 686 2700, F: (02) 632 0577-79. http://www.bnhhospital.com/
Bumrungrad Hospital: 33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua), Bangkok 10110. T: (02) 667 1000, F: (02) 667 2525. http://www.bumrungrad.com/
Samitivej Hospital: 133 Sukhumvit 49, Bangkok 10110. T: (02) 711 8000, F: (02) 391 1290. http://www.samitivej.co.th

The Tourist Police can be contacted anytime, anywhere in Thailand be telephoning 1155. The Bangkok police also have booths at most major traffic intersections. If you cannot find a police officer in an emergency, try the first office or storefront you can find.
http://tourist.police.go.th

Internet cafes are scattered all over Bangkok, particularly in tourist areas. Rates are extremely low -- as little as 20B per hour. Wireless access points are slowly becoming more common at cafes and some restaurants and bars.

All major Thai banks have their head office branch in Bangkok. ATMs can be found all over the city, often near 7-elevens and also within skytrain and subway stations. Some of the main banks include:
Bangkok Bank
Kasikorn Bank (previously Thai Farmer's Bank)
Bank of Ayutthaya
Thai Military Bank
Siam Commercial Bank

Foreign Banks
Standard & Chartered
HSBC

The Central Bangkok GPO can be found at 40-42 Chareon Krung Rd, Bangkok. there are branch offices in all districts of Bangkok. Small postal agencies can also be found in some skytrain stations. http://www.thailandpost.com


Immigration Bureau: 507 Soi Suan Plu Sathorn Bangkok 10120. Office hour: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 16:30, closed weekends. http://www.immigration.go.th