As Ho Chi Minh City's cyclo drivers rest easy below vast neon billboards, the emerging Vietnamese middle class -- mobile phones in hand -- cruise past draped in haute couture on their imported motorcycles. Welcome to Ho Chi Minh City -- Vietnam's largest and most exciting city.

How things have changed from the sleepy days pre-16th century, when the Khmer fishing village of Prey Nokor was established on a vast swampland. Saigon's origins date back to the early 17th century when the area became home for refugees fleeing war in the north. Towards the end of the century, once the population was more Vietnamese and Cambodia weak enough, Vietnam annexed the territory. Over the following decades Prey Nokor developed into the Saigon the French found when they conquered the region in the mid 19th century.

Within a very short time the French began to leave their mark on the city and still today some of the best hotels in Saigon are within grandiose colonials overlooking gorgeous boulevards dating back to Saigon's heyday as the Paris of the Orient. For the French, Saigon became the capital of Cochinchina -- an expansive region encompassing parts of modern-day Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. Through the next 100 years, they extracted as much as they could from the region -- much of it passing through Saigon's ports. Often cruel and thoughtless, French rule remained over the city and Cochinchina until their exit from Vietnam following their defeat at the Battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954.

When the French opted out of Vietnamto avoid recognising the communist victors, they left the south under the care of Emperor Bao Dai who had made his capital there in 1950. Subsequently, when Vietnam was officially partitioned, the southern government, led by Ngo Dinh Diem, kept the capital at Saigon. And there the southern capital remained -- throughout the topsy turvy period of the American war. Then, as America's role in Vietnam's pains drew to an end, Saigon swelled to the eyeballs with refugees fleeing troubles to the north -- just as Prey Nokor once did.

When the South finally fell in 1975, what remained was a paltry shadow of its more grandiose days. Fittingly, the following year the city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City in honour of the late leader of North Vietnam, Ho Chi Minh.. Despite this, many still know the sprawling town as Saigon, and the name still refers to central District One..

The communist victory was followed by widespread repression and re-education. The economy buckled under a heavy hand from the north as entrepreneurial spirit was all but stamped out, and the Chinese trading class were particularly hard done by. Simultaneously, Saigon's elite and pretty much anyone else with the means did their best to get out of the country, and through the late 1970s and early 1980s, Vietnam's "boat people" were featured in media worldwide.

Through a policy of freeing up economic activity known as doi moi in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the economic leash was loosened and Saigon has never looked back. With a very young, increasingly well-educated population, the city has gone from strength to strength. Today, children of The Party slide through the heaving traffic in gleaming, chauffeur-driven Mercedes, and the general population looks more to neon shrines for direction than to Uncle Ho and the old guard.

Towering developments now pierce what was once a very low-key skyline. Five-star hotels and international shopping chains have replaced dowdy government guesthouses and empty shelves. Saigon has some of the best cuisine in the country, from cheap street eating to salubrious haute cuisine. A renewed interest in the arts has stimulated the art scene and many galleries and museums are slowly being spruced up. For a tourist there is a lot to do in Saigon.

And once you're done with the city, use it as a base to explore the surrounds -- head out to the tunnels at Chu Chi, the Cao Dai temple at Tay Ninh or jet off to the sublime Con Dao. Then there's the entire Mekong Delta to explore. How much time have you got?!

Orientation
Common scams & things to watch out for
Saigon is an extremely safe place to visit and for the most part it's up to the individual to keep out of trouble. For example, frequenting late night bars in Pham Ngu Lao is likely to attract the company of sex workers, who may not be as friendly as they seem. A common ruse is to be plied with alcohol and then pick-pocketed, with the missing money and phone not noticed until morning. Pickpockets are known to operate at Ben Thanh market as well, so keep unnecessary valuables in the safe at the guesthouse.

When travelling by motorcycle keep bags secured or at least make them ungrabbable. Although rare, motorbike drive-by thefts are not unusual -- especially if you're advertising the fact you have a digital camera and probably a load of other goodies.

Police
The police emergency number is 113, but expect a different service from what you're used to. On Pham Ngu Lao St, just near the junction with De Tham on the park side of the road, there is a small 'tourist security' office. If you're taken seriously then the boss may be called. The tourist hotline number is T: (08) 925 0000. Tourist security officers are becoming a more common sight around Saigon, helping tourists cross the street and standing by outside tourist attractions.

Emergency
For a medical emergency, District One has several privately-owned and Western-run medical centres. Try SOS International (65 Nguyen Du St, T: (08) 829 8424) or Family Medical Practice (Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan Street, T: (08) 822 7848). Better get that travel insurance as it's not cheap -- even an appointment with the GP costs US$60. FV, or Franco-Vietnamese Hospital, (6 Nguyen Luong Bang St, District 7) may be needed for more complicated problems. Their emergency number is (08) 411 3500. FV also have a small clinic in the city, a good option for routine checkups (45 Vo Thi Sau District 1, T: (08) 290 6167). Cho Ray hospital (201B Nguyen Chi Thanh St, District 5, T: (08) 855 4137) has a trauma unit.

Visa extensions
Most travel agents can get a visa extension for you. Typically a 30-day extension sets you back US$25 and takes one week, while an express two-day service costs around US$40. Three- and six-month extensions are also available for tourist visas. Chi's Cafe (40/27 Bui Vien St, District 1, T: (08) 920 4874) provides as good a service as any.

Immigration office
Saigon's immigration office is open Mon-Fri, closed for lunch 11:00 - 13:00. Save yourself the hassle of waiting in lines and dealing with bureaucrats by using a visa extension service through a travel agent instead. To process the visa by yourself, the first step is to pick up the correct form from the office. 254 Nguyen Trai St, District 1, T: (08) 839 2221

Banks
International ATMs are now dotted all over District One and aren't hard to find. If staying in Pham Ngu Lao make use of the 24-hour ATM at Sacombank (211 Nguyen Thai Hoc St). In the city centre, the HSBC sits next to Notre Dame (235 Dong Khoi St) and ANZ is down by the river (11 Me Linh Square). Public ATMs are in the Tax Shopping Centre on the corner of Nguyen Hue St and Le Loi St, and at the Caravelle Hotel directly opposite the city Opera House.

ATMs have a withdrawal transaction limit of 2 million VND (roughly US$120). You can withdraw this amount as many times as you want up to your limit back home -- but be aware your own bank will charge for each transaction). Reliable counters for changing your bucks can be found at 82 Mac Thi Buoi St (Dong Khoi area), and De Tham St (Pham Ngu Lao area). Places such as this have no commission, but charge a US$2 bank fee for travellers cheques and a US$3 fee for credit card advance. Inside a bank, the charge on your travellers cheque will be between 1.5 and 2.0%.

Post office
Saigon's main post office (Cong Xa Paris Square, District 1) doubles as a tourist attraction due to its architecture and the large portrait of Uncle Ho overseeing proceedings. Next to Notre Dame Cathedral this post office along with all others opens 06:00 - 22:00 daily. Smaller offices are all over the city -- look for the 'Buu Dien' sign.

Books
Fahasa is the largest and only real chain of bookshops in the city, with three District 1 locations. Try 40 Nguyen Hue St and 185 Dong Khoi St, good places to buy the all-important city map, though the English-language selection is limited. Another option is to sit in a Pham Ngu Lao cafe and wait for the sellers with their book stacks and catalogues of available titles. These are not original books -- they've been photocopied so be prepared for the occasional missing or wonky page. Prices are around 80-120,000 VND ($5-$8) depending on your bartering skills.