Ek Phnom and Wat Baset

A fine taster for Angkor

Photo of Ek Phnom and Wat Baset, , Battambang

What we say: 4 stars

Wat Ek, often called Ek Phnom, is definitely Battambang's best option. It's a fine little temple with some good carvings remaining and particularly picturesque at sunset. It's only a 10 kilometre or 20 minute or so drive out of town so a fine late afternoon filler if you want to stretch your legs after sitting on a boat or bus all day. The temple originally dates to the early 11th century and reign of Suryavarman I and consists of inner and outer walls and a large central shrine with entrance portico on a raised central platform – hence 'Phnom'.

The temple's construction was ordered by the king himself as his famous 'temple of the west', so unusually for a provincial temple, it's mostly made from the more expensive sandstone rather than cheaper laterite. This temple is often combined with the nearby Wat Baset site to make a longer trip, but if you only want to see one, prioritise Wat Ek over the latter, which is in a sorry state. Often known locally as the 'ruined ruin', constructed by the same king, it was originally the larger of the two.

For some reason the Khmer Rouge had it in for this site which they attempted to dismantle before a series of accidents fortunately convinced them the spirits weren't happy so they left off. In more recent times a misguided local thought he'd improve the ruins by painting the remaining carvings yellow and blue, though it is happily beginning to wash off now. These days the scattered piles of rubble are hard to decipher though there are amazingly still some excellent lintels remaining.

Ek Phnom has a $3 entrance fee.

Last updated: 14th January, 2014

Last reviewed by:
Based in Chiang Mai, Mark Ord has been travelling Southeast Asia for over two decades and first crossed paths with Travelfish on Ko Lipe in the early 1990s.

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