Phnom Banan

Hilltop temple and caves

Kids at Phnom Banan

What we say: 4 stars

Just over 20km to the south of Battambang, Phnom Banan is the best kept of the remaining Khmer ruins in the area, though again, when compared to Angkor Wat it isn't so impressive.

Dating back to the 11th century, Phnom Banan has been heavily looted but remains mostly upright. What is impressive from here are the superb views of the surrounds in all directions. A large field gun kept at the site once has now been removed.

It's a rather steep climb from ground level up to the ruins. Luckily at the top a few industrious drink sellers emerge, who will also be happy to show you around the temple and then the caves below on the left (when looking at the ruins from the stairs). These are well worth exploring, though note the cave entrance is almost at the base of the hill, so be sure you are finished with the ruins before you agree to go down.

Also note if it is a slow day — very common here — all the children here will offer to come with you, but they will all expect something for coming along. Be warned that the entrance to the caves is so small you need to wriggle through on your belly.


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