Preah Ko
A minor stop
What we say: 
Built in 880 AD, Preah Ko, also called Paramesvara which means "Supreme God" or Shiva, was the first temple Indravarman I built in what was then an ancient capital in the region, Hariharalaya.
What remains of it today are six small brick towers sitting on a sandstone base along with a handful of outlying building in various state of ruins Each tower is dedicated to one of Indravarman's ancestors, including Jayavarman II (considered to be the founding father of the Khmer empire).
The sides of the doors of all six brick temples contain long inscriptions, but the big find here was the temple foundation steele in the gopura of the first enclosure. While the steele has been removed, part of the inscription is the eulogy of Indravarman I and reads, according to G. Coedes in Maurice Glaize's Angkor:
The right arm of the prince is long, strong and fearsome in battle as his flashing sword falls on his enemies, defeating kings in every direction. Invincible, he can be appeased by two enemies only — those who have their backs turned, and those who, valuing life, put themselves under his protection.
The main point of interest here are the lime mortar lintels and other decorative work that was affixed to the brick towers. Construction continues at the smaller surrounding stupas, but is complete on the main six towers and you can now enter these. Each has a small, active shrine inside.
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