Banteay Srei

Stunning carvings

What we say: 4.5 stars

Once you’ve clambered over swarms of tourists in pursuit of that one photo of Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom or Ta Prohm that doesn’t feature a crowd of total strangers, you may be tempted to call it a day with the temples after, well, a day. However, there are a number of smaller temples not far from Siem Reap which are quite different from the ‘The Big Three’ and which are well worth a visit in their own right. With a bit of planning they can be comfortably visited in a very relaxed half-day trip.

Lotus towers? Check. Moat? Check. Hordes of tourists? Not if you time it right.

The temple of Banteay Srei or the Citadel of the Women is just one such temple. Its main attractions, apart from the fact that it is never as busy at the larger temples, are the superbly well-preserved and highly intricate stone carvings that adorn the pink-hued sandstone of the delightfully small and intimate site.

Inside the volcanic laterite outer walls, virtually every available surface is covered in carvings with a predominance of apsaras — celestial nymphs in Hindu tradition — from which the temple takes its name. It has its own picturesque lotus bud towers too, but what makes Banteay Srei all the more remarkable is that it was completed some 150 years before Angkor Wat in the year 967.

At more than 1,000 years old, Banteay Srei’s carvings are some 150 years older than Angkor Wat

But this is a practical guide, not a history lesson so here’s the really useful stuff.

At about 25 kilometres from town the journey in a tuk-tuk should take less than an hour each way and cost you in the region of $20-$25 including any stops you might make en route. If you splash out on a car with English-speaking driver you can expect to pay up to $40 for the privilege of air conditioning, some useful words of guidance and a cooler full of bottles of iced water. It’s best to check exactly what is included when you book your driver.

On arrival you may be pleasantly surprised to find a very well organised complex with a large car park, official gift shops, wall-mounted site plans, clean, modern toilets, souvenir stalls and restaurants. If you want to stay for lunch, restaurant menus include all the usual Khmer rice and noodle staples, and although prices were listed from $5 upwards, on my recent visit we were instantly offered “anything on the menu” for just $3.

Early morning or late afternoon are the best times to visit to avoid any tour buses but if the temple entrance looks busy when you arrive, turn right instead of left and take the short circular walk around the small wetland nature reserve. It’s a haven of birdlife – at the right time of day and year — and provides a peaceful and shady walk along good paths with various viewpoints on wooden piers constructed over reedy lakes.

Far from the madding crowd: Banteay Srei’s wetland walk.

The path from the lake to the temple also takes you past a small raised platform that gives you a clear view over the temple’s outer walls and moat for a good chance of capturing that elusive stranger-free photo.

An uninterrupted view for that crowd-free snap.

You will of course need a temple pass to access Banteay Srei and unfortunately the only place you can buy one is at the main Apsara Authority ticket office on the road from Siem Reap to Angkor Wat. Which is not exactly the most direct route from town to Banteay Srei.

To save time, buy a three-day pass when you tackle The Big Three on day one. It costs the same as two single-day passes – currently $20 for one day and $40 for three — and it gives you the luxury of being able to take your time and see more than the average package tourist. You could even mix up some half-day temple visits with a lazy afternoon by the pool, a spot of shopping or a long lunch without feeling guilty about the cost of your pass.

A three-day pass leaves plenty of time for guilt-free pool lounging.

What’s more a three-day pass can also be used on any three days within a seven-day period which means you don’t need to spend any consecutive days at the temples if you don’t want to. Dare I say it, it’s one of the few pieces of Apsara Authority logic that actually works in favour of the tourist.

There are plenty of other ways to get value out of your three-day pass such as the lesser-known temples of Banteay Samre, Preah Palilay and Ta Nei, but Banteay Srei is a good one to start with. Watch this space for more.

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32km from Siem Reap
Last updated: 12th October, 2014

About the author:
Simon is fluent in English, Spanish and French, but to date he has only mastered a few carefully chosen words of Khmer, like "Food" and "Beer" and "Fat".
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Banteay Srei
32km from Siem Reap
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