Pathet Lao caves

The caves at Vieng Xai are a well preserved history lesson of the war in Laos (and Vietnam). There are ten large caves (and many more minor caves) which were used during the war to hide production, materials and people.

The communist forces hid a great deal of their war effort in the caves surrounding Vieng Xai. There were caves for living quarters, markets, printing presses, hospitals and government bureaucracies. They are well preserved and little work has been done since they received heavy usage during the war years of 1964-1975.

The Pathet Lao leadership all had homes here and lived and directed the war from the caves. The caves themselves were used during the daily heavy aerial bombardment, but once the aerial onslaught finished in 1973 (with the US leaving the combat theatre), houses were built outside the various leaders' caves which were then used to command the final stages of battle against the Royal Laos/Hmong forces.

There are eight caves open to the public now, with plans to open more. The four major caves have houses built outside the caves for the Pathet Laos leaders who occupied them. There is also a major cave structure with a theatre and army barracks.

The first cave, closest to town, is Kaysone's. This cave contains meeting rooms (for the war Politburo), resting rooms, kitchen and dining facilities as well as emergency bunkers. These caves are extensive and are the best example of living and working during the war years. Kaysone had a large house built outside his cave complex on the termination of the US bombing in 1973.

The second major cave is that of the Red Prince Souphanouvong. In his cave complex you will see a garage for his car, meeting rooms and living quarters for him and his family. It is an interesting side note that the prince was allegedly the first person to gain contacts, and ultimately aid and help, from the Viet Minh Communist forces in Vietnam. His wife was Vietnamese and he started working in Vietnam after he graduated (civil engineering) from a French universitiy. The prince is often cited as the driving force behind the communist movement in Laos but was sidelined in later years after victory had been won.

Other caves of interest are the so called Theatre Cave (headquarters to Phoumsavang, the army commander) and the deepest cave of Tham Xieng Muang. The Theatre Cave was the setting for the massive army barracks which housed over 2,000 soldiers and was the headquarters of the Pathet Laos military effort. The theatre featured performances from visiting artists from Russia, Vietnam and China. It also acted as a secure meeting point for large party gatherings.

Until relatively recently, these caves remained secret. The Laos government didn't acknowledge their existence, however recent moves have made the caves a tourist attraction and are a vital source of tourist revenue in the province. Many tours arrive from Vietnam, and there are a growing number of western tourists heading toward the town for a look at the labyrinth of caves which protected the poorly armed Pathet Laos forces from the huge amount of ordinance which was dropped on the area during the secret war.

The caves are all within walking distance of town; however you must get a guide to show you around the various sites (not least because they are protected by gates and locks nowadays). Guided tours can be found at the Vieng Xai Cave Tourist office.

Tours cost 50,000 kip and take approximately two hours. Bicycles are available for hire at the office. To get value for money we suggest that you go on a bicycle tour. Just walking around the site you will miss out on a number of caves as the area is too large to cover in the two hour time limit. Tours depart between 09:00-11:00 and 13:00-16:00. Outside of these times you can pay an additional fee to ensure a guide will break for lunch to accompany you. The cost of this varies, but budget for 50,000 kip for the additional cost. Guides do speak English and are extremely knowledgeable about the caves.

Many people do the tour of the caves from a pre-booked package when staying in Sam Neua, this is a good option if you don't want to stay overnight in Vieng Xai.