Phou That Lodge and Chiang Tung Stupa

Six kilometres out of Muang Sing on the road to Luang Nam Tha a large hill rises up out of the rice paddies crowned with a golden stupa called Chieng Tung, built in the style of Vientiane's That Luang. It is said to contain Buddha's Adam's apple.

The large open space surrounding the stupa is the site of a full moon festival in November, when people come from near and far to celebrate. Stalls are set up with games and food for sale and everyone sits around drinking Beerlao and rice whisky. Many people camp overnight. The rest of the year the grounds around the stupa are inhabited only by cows and a few deserted buildings. From the top of the mountain there is no view of the surrounding countryside, but a little further down is Phou That Lodge, which has fabulous views. A series of wooden bungalows perched on the side of the mountain, each has individual balconies that face out over rice fields, small local towns and Muang Sing itself in the distance. A large balcony restaurant has the same prospect.

The guesthouse has been designed to harmonise with the environment using local architecture. Rooms are very clean and nicely done, although there is no fan. Each room has a private bathroom with western toilet and hot water shower.

Other things to see in the area include a waterfall, ethnic villages, lao rice whisky production and tours through agricultural plantations, all of which can be organised at the guesthouse. To get there, take a songthaew between Luang Nam Tha and Muang Sing and ask to be dropped off at the lodge, which is near Ban That Tin, just before Muang Sing. Unless you have private transport, you'll be dropped at the base of the hill and will have to walk the short distance up to the Lodge.