Muang Khoun

Muang Khoun is the old Xieng Khuang, and was once the provincial capital. The ruins of a temple are all that remain of what was once a royal kingdom, renowned for the beauty of its many temples and stupas. They have all been destroyed by years of pillaging by raiders from invading countries, followed by the intense bombing of the war. There is no longer any evidence in Muang Khoun of the architectural style that made the kingdom so famous.

The Xieng Khuang temple is worth a visit though. The enormous seated Buddha has a bullet shot through its forehead, and sits at the end of a row of towering brick pillars. The ruins of a single villa on the road between the market and Wat Pia is further evidence of what was once a vibrant city filled with French colonial architecture, not unlike Luang Prabang is today. A very different town has been rebuilt in its place, however.

Muang Khoun has nowhere to stay for now, and the only restaurants are basic, mostly serving noodle soup.

Best visited as a day trip from Phonsavan, it can be attached to a visit to the nearby Jars, for an extra 200,000 Kip per vehicle. There are songtheaws which will take you to Xieng Khuang, leaving from Phonsavan and Muang Kham, but the departure times are unreliable, mostly leaving when there are enough passengers.