Baan Chang Thai Arts and Muay Chaiya School

Painting, kickboxing and puppetry

What we say: 3.5 stars

Painting, kick boxing and puppetry may not seem to go together, but at master Kruu Lek’s Baan Chang Thai arts and muay Chaiya school, expressive art and mindful boxing synthesise seamlessly. Simultaneously teaching an ancient type of muay Thai known as muay Chaiya along with several forms of traditional Thai art, the school is highly regarded both for its excellence and devotion to keeping these aspects of traditional Thai culture alive.

Time to get out your boxing gloves ... and paint brushes.

Time to get out your boxing gloves … and paint brushes.

A native of Thonburi, Kruu Lek (kruu is a term of respect meaning “teacher”) started the school 16 years ago to provide Bangkok with a platform for exploring his particular blend of skills. Born into a family of artists, mediums like painting, drawing, sculpture, traditional Thai mask (khon) making and puppetry came naturally to Kruu Lek at an early age.

A few of Kruu Khet's hand-made khon style puppets.

A few of Kruu Lek’s hand-made khon style puppets.

The master has continued with the arts throughout his life, and today he teaches Thai-style painting and drawing regularly to people of all ages. His intricate and elaborate traditional Thai style murals have been purchased and donated to Buddhist temples, where they grace the walls of sacred spaces alongside ancient works of art.

Kruu Khet working on a mural bound for a Lopburi temple.

Kruu Lek works on a mural bound for a Lopburi temple.

At the age of 16, Kruu Lek met muay Chaiya grand master Ajarn Khet Sriyabhai from the town of Chaiya near Surat Thani in southern Thailand. This grand master had received and refined the ancient fighting art of muay Chaiya from a direct lineage dating back to a famed warrior turned Buddhist monk who first taught the techniques to the people of the area several hundred years ago.

Phra Ram Ajarn Khet Sriyabhai -- I wouldn't have messed with him.

Ajarn Khet Sriyabhai — I definitely would not have messed with him.

As a fighting style, muay Chaiya emphasises control, concentration and patience, and it aims to take advantage of an opponent’s energy by tactfully re-directing it at the right instant. Muay Chaiya is considered not just a fighting technique but also a sort of performing art, and Kruu Lek occasionally partakes in performances that showcase muay Chaiya more as a dance than a fight.

Pivotal to the art of muay Chaiya above all else, experienced boxers are able to keep a strong yet calm, peaceful, and humble state of mind, which is not swayed by the violence and competition of a match. Kruu Lek says that “a stable mentality, modesty, a careful and mindful nature, honesty, gratefulness and a real interest” are prerequisites for training at Baan Chang Thai.

Yeah, I probably wouldn't mess with him either.

Yeah, I probably wouldn’t mess with him either.

Several of Kruu Lek’s students have fought at Lumpini boxing stadium, which some might say is more about the spectacle (and the money) than the art and tradition of Thai boxing. Yet, the master says, even when his students have lost at Lumpini and other venues, “they are still relaxed”. It’s another way of saying that in the muay Chaiya way, winning or losing pales in importance to keeping a calm, respectful, modest and mindful attitude no matter what the outcome.

Training the body, and the mind.

Training the body, and the mind.

Kruu Lek trained with Ajarn Khet Sriyabhai for five years before the grand master passed away when Kruu Lek was 21. After the grand master’s passing, Kruu Lek received the teachings of several other elder muay Chaiya masters for many years before taking his rightful place as a master himself. Since opening the school, he has taught muay Chaiya to the Thai Royal Army, Thai action movie stars and prominent Thai boxers. He is also invited regularly to teach abroad, and has received accolades from Thai princess Sirindhorn.

And this is what happens if you mess with Kruu Khet himself.

And this is what happens if you mess with Kruu Lek himself.

One of our first questions for Kruu Lek was, “Is there any relation between the art and fighting aspects of the school?” Without flinching the master replied, “They are the same.” Though it may be difficult to comprehend from a Western perspective that’s accustomed to dog-eat-dog style UFC fighting, on the one hand, and proper art exhibitions complete with “creative types” sipping martinis, on the other, a visit to Baan Chang Thai exemplifies how if done with the correct state of mind, each are truly two sides of the same coin. To be successful, both require focus, patience, mindfulness, and the willingness to dig so deeply into oneself that “oneself” is forgotten in the process.

Meanwhile, in the kids' art room...

Meanwhile, in the kids’ art room…

Baan Chang Thai offers several types of lessons: three-hour long Thai painting and drawing classes are held on Saturdays and Sundays, with “art for kids” one-hour classes also available. The cost is 3,000 baht for 12 classes, and students may show up or skip as they please with no time limit on usage of the lessons.

If ready for Kruu Khet, you are most welcome.

If ready for Kruu Lek, you are most welcome.

“Normal” group muay Chaiya lessons run 800 baht for four two-hour lessons and are held on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, while “special” private lessons are available throughout weekdays at flexible times. The cost for these is 10,000 baht for 12 two-hour lessons, but rates go down if attending with two or more people. If just wanting to try it out, a single “normal” lesson costs 500 baht while a “special” one runs 1,000. Kruu Lek speaks English and consistently teaches a mix of Thai and foreign students.

More details
38 Ekkamai 10/2, Sukhumvit Rd 63
http://www.samkhum.com/en/index.html
How to get there: To get here on foot from the Ekkamai BTS (sky train) station, take the stairs out of the station at Exit 1 and then walk straight a short ways along the footpath before turning right onto Ekkamai Road. Walk another 1.5 kilometres; when you reach Soi 10, on the right, there’s a green sign for Baan Chang Thai, which is no more than 50 metres down on the left.
Last updated: 15th May, 2014

Last reviewed by:
Usually found exploring Bangkok's side streets or south Thailand's islands, David Luekens is an American freelance writer & photographer who finds everyday life in Asia to be extraordinary. You can follow his travails here.

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