Kaeng Krachan National Park

Covering a total of 2,915 sq km, Kaeng Krachan is Thailand's largest and certainly one of its most beautiful National Parks. Its western border adjoins Burma and the park's northern border sides with Mae Nam Wildlife Sanctuary. Due to the region's inaccessibility and rugged terrain very little logging or settlement has taken place with the result that primary forest dominates, and covers 95% of the vast area. A nature lovers paradise.

The park is situated on the eastern slope of the Tenasserin Mountain Range, where the highest mountain, Khao Panoen Thung, reaches 1,207 m but the main peaks are actually over the border in Burma. The terrain in this part of the park is covered by steep, rugged slopes with numerous caves, waterfalls and river gorges. A large part of the park also extends into the watershed area of the Phetburi and Pranburi River systems. Kaeng Krachan has some of Thailand's highest rainfall so as a result, the forest is exceptionally lush, adding to its appeal.

Kaeng Krachan National Park contains a wide variety of flora and fauna. Its location at the 'junction' of continental Southeast Asia and the Malayan Peninsula has created a haven for several unique species. Thus northern deciduous forest, with its accompanying wildlife, meets the tropical evergreen jungle typical of the Malayan/Sumatran region. Large mammals are abundant in the park where elephants and tigers have been seen along with the Asian black bear, panthers, leopards, a variety of monkeys and the very rare Fea's barking deer. Birdlife is particularly diverse with over 400 species identified, including the ratchet-tailed tree pie only discovered in 1991 and unrecorded elsewhere in Thailand. The park also holds a small community of the endangered woolly-necked stork. The only human inhabitants are in several small mixed Karen and Karang settlements which forestry officials would dearly like to relocate.

The National Park is pretty much closed from August to November for the rainy season (with October being the wettest month) with December to March being the ideal time to visit. For an even quieter time you may want to avoid weekends as well. In December and January the higher altitudes require warm clothes.

Kaeng Krachan National Park is well organised with excellent facilities and English speaking wardens yet is very rarely visited by Thais or farangs. Certain parts of the park can be visited on your own, namely the trails heading off from the 36 km road leading through the centre from the park entrance to near Khao Panoen Thung, however you need permission from the park headquarters before you wander up the road.

Phanoen Thung Mountain is reached by a difficult 6 km track from the road starting at the 27 km marker. There is only one other road in the southern part of the park which leads to the waterfall, Namtok Pala-u. Otherwise guides can be hired from the park headquarters at 200B per day. You will be expected to provide your own food (and the guide's food) and tents (can be hired). A two or three day hike should work out reasonably cheap. For a supplement, rafting is available on the walk and boat trips on the reservoir can be organised through the National Park headquarters. A more destructive 4WD and a guide goes for 800B per day. If you are only here for a day try the Tortip Waterfall, which is a three hour walk from the 33 km marker off the road. The final section is very steep.

The 45 sq km artificial lake known as Kaeng Krachan Reservoir, formed in 1965 by the damming of the Phetburi River, is part of the park as well as being a tourist destination in itself. The dam is 2.5 km past the Kaeng Krachan village checkpoint and is home to many bird, fish and reptile species including the Malayan Giant Frog which can grow up to 30 cm long. Former peaks now form wooded islands dotting the scenic lake. The King of Thailand is a regular visitor and has had a pavilion constructed for himself so he can enjoy the beautiful surroundings. Boat trips can be organised from the park office and the village of Ban Tha Rua.

If you are doing it on your own, do not stray off the track. You will still see some stunning scenery and plenty of wildlife and several campsites have been established along the way with washing facilities for your convenience. A tremendous advantage of the walks is that stream water is plentiful and drinkable so you do not need to weigh yourself down with water. However mosquito repellent and nets are essential — this is a malarial area. Leeches can also be a problem, so take some matches, a lighter or cigarettes to burn them off (any brand will do!)

Accommodation
The park has excellent lake side bungalows, some 500 m past the visitors centre for 100B per person, otherwise take a tent. There are camping facilities along the 36 km road to Khao Panoen Thung at kilometre markers 15, 27 and 30, camping is also allowed at other areas but you need to take everything with you.

Restaurants
There is a reasonable restaurant next to the visitors centre, though watch out for the giant hornbill which hangs out there. This bird is a thug, who's only aim in life is pecking farangs ankles, trying to land on their heads or crapping in their noodle soup. Plans are afoot to 'relocate' the bird, along with the Karens who are much more hospitable!

Cheaper fare including noodle soup and pad thai can be had in Ban Tha Rua, 1 km before the Park Headquarters.

Getting there
From Phetburi
There are two main routes to the park. From Phetburi drive or ride 20 km south towards Tha Yang, take the indicated right and then follow the signs for the next 38 km. Otherwise drive through Tha Yang and Cha Am to Hua Hin, then follow the signs for the 60 odd kilometres into the park. Direct songtheaws leave from Matayawong Road near the digital clocktower. These stop in Tha Yang for 20 minutes then continue the remaining 40 km to Ban Kaeng Krachan. Once you reach Ban Kaeng Krachan, you will need to either walk, hitch or take a motorbike taxi for the remaining 5 kms to the park headquarters. This trip takes all up around 1.5 hours. Otherwise you can get a songtheaw from Phetburi or Cha Am to Tha Yang and from there pick up another songtheaw to Ban Kaeng Krachan.

From further afield, all buses plying the Bangkok to Pratchuap Khiri Khan route stop at Tha Yang. There is even a direct aircon bus to Tha Yang from Bangkok.

From Hua Hin
The best way to reach the park from Hua Hin is by hired motorcycle via Route 3219. Follow the signs to the park ranger's office some 60 km away. You will enter via the southern reaches of the park, and Namtok Pala-u is 4 km further on. There is no accommodation available in this area yet, but there are a number of other waterfalls you can visit. By public transport your best bet is to get a songtheaw to Ban Nong Phlab, though we would suggest that Phetburi is a better approach point for those entering by public transport.