Ride around the island

Get a bike and go!

What we say: 4 stars



Phu Quoc is very well suited to motorcycle trips. Be warned that the roads are very infrequently shaded, so wear a hat and drink a lot of water to keep sunstroke at bay. Below we detail two primary routes — one to the south and the other to the west, with the latter being the more pretty. If you have time though, do both!

Southern loop
Head south from Duong Dong till you reach the junction with the road to Ham Ninh — take the left turn and ride onwards to Suoi Tranh waterfall. The waterfall isn’t signposted, but just keep an eye out for the massive concrete gates on your left — that’s the entrance. There’s a small charge for leaving your motorbike. The falls are more of a river running over rocks than anything else, but it’s nevertheless a pleasant and cool spot. During the dry season, the river turns into a trickle.

Bai Sao is kinda nice.

Bai Sao is kinda nice.

Continue on the road towards Ham Ninh, but when you reach a main right, take it, heading south to Bai Sao beach. Along the way you’ll come to a sealed left which runs down to Bai Vong beach, so if you want to see Bai Vong as well, take that. Otherwise, continue southwards to Bai Sao. The turnoff is marked if you are heading north so look for the sign for My Lan, but it’s at the top of a rise and there’s a bunch of beer and cafe signs — that’s where you want to go.

More prettiness.

More prettiness.

Follow the sometimes bumpy dirt road down to Bai Sao beach and decamp for lunch and a good deal of frolicking. Once you’ve had your fill, get back onto the main road and head south for a couple of kilometres to a dusty road to the right, There follow the road and you’ll end up running up the length of Long beach till you hit Duong Dong. Stop as many times as possible for a swim and don’t forget to swing by the pearl farm.

Western loop
This is one of the prettiest loops. Head north from Duong Dong — it’s a little confusing as the signposting isn’t great, but keep bearing left –and keeping the ocean in view and following the signs to Mango Bay eventually you’ll end up on the right road. Following this road takes you to the turnoffs to Mango Bay and Bo Resort — both of which are worth dropping by for a coffee or snack, accompanied by a swim.

Hi Bai Thom.

Hi Bai Thom.

Continue north until you get to the Cua Can junction. You want to follow that road until you hit Chez Carole along Vung Bau Beach and at the northern point you’ll reach a great viewpoint looking back over the beach and down the coast. Continue north and you’ll run into Vinpearl resort, which takes up almost all of Bai Dai beach. Take the road which runs the length of the southern boundary of the resort and you will find yourself on Cua Canh Ganh Dau Street.

Head north until you reach a set of seafood restaurants with views across to Cambodia — the frontier is a mere five kilometres from here. While having lunch, don’t be surprised if an enterprising fisherman offers you a quick boat trip to dip your toes on Cambodian sand. He offered to do it for us for 500,000 VND but we opted to not break the law.

Not just about the beaches.

Not just about the beaches.

After lunch, you have two options. You can either head back to Duong Dong by going back the way you came on Cua Canh Ganh Dau ,which takes you through some pleasing stretches of forest. Alternatively, you can continue on to Bai Thom by taking the road where it turns into Suoi Cai – Ganh Dau road. Make a left turn at the T-junction which will take you through parts of Phu Quoc National Park. Follow the road for another 15 kilometres and you will be at Bai Thom. A few rustic huts serve refreshments and food and you can dip your toes in some of the most pristine beachfront left in Phu Quoc. Take the road back. While continuing on in a loop of the island might look attractive, the road after Bai Thom heading south is very bumpy and only for experienced riders as there are some very challenging spots on the road.

Last updated: 17th August, 2015

About the author:
A freelance photographer and writer from the States, Vinh returned to his homeland in 2012 after spending a short 10 year stint in Cambodia.
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