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Region: Western Cambodia> Province: Siem Reap>Location: Angkor

Angkor sights and attractions

Angkor Wat - the masterpiece of an unknown Michelangelo

Description
Described by the French officer Francis Garnier as "the masterpiece of an unknown Michelangelo" Angkor Wat, or the city that became a pagoda, is the single largest religious monument in the world and is considered by historians to be the penultimate example of classic Khmer architecture.

Built between 1113 and 1150 during the reign of King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took well over 30 years to complete and upon completion it was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. In size alone Angkor Wat is breathtaking. The outer walls stretch for 1.5 km east to west and 1.3 km north to south and the walls are encircled by a beautiful moat that is almost 200 metres wide -- the entire site takes in some 200 hectares.

Unusually for a Khmer temple, Angkor Wat is orientated to the west and as west is symbolically associated both with death and Vishnu there has been some debate over the purpose of Angkor Wat -- tomb or temple? The prevalent opinion is that Angkor Wat was both -- a temple to Vishnu and a tomb for its creator, Suryavarman II.

Like all temple mountains, Angkor Wat is a model of the divine -- playing out the Hindu mythology in both its construction and its spectacular bas-reliefs. At the centre of the Hindu (and Buddhist) universe sits Mount Meru -- a holy peak some 450,000km high on the mythical continent Jambudvipa. Atop the mountain sits the home of Brahma and other gods of both religions. At Angkor Wat, this mountain is represented by Angkor's central tower which in turn is surrounded by smaller peaks, then the continents are represented by the outer courtyards and finally the ocean is illustrated with the moat. This ocean is bridged by a naga bridge which allowed man to cross from the land of mortals to that of the Gods -- the sandstone causeway that runs across the moat from the west.

In walking across Angkor's naga bridge and entering the complex, you are traversing the ocean from the real world to that of the gods -- stepping from continent to continent and then scaling a peak some 750,000km high -- there's no escalator.

At the time of its construction the outer walls would have encircled not just the central temple but also a city of considerable size along with the Royal palace. As these buildings were wooden, nothing remains, although some remnants of the road within the city were traced out as a part of restoration work. Angkor's most famous custodian, Frenchman Maurice Glazier comments that of all the Angkorian monuments, Angkor Wat, protected by its large moat was the best placed to withstand the onslaught of the jungle. This protection was further assisted by the fact that ever since the mid 13th century, Angkor Wat has remained in use as a place of Buddhist worship -- a temple remains within its grounds to this day -- oft supplying a steady flow of saffron clad monks for your holiday snaps.

When approaching from the west, one needs to cross the moat via the still-being-restored, sandstone causeway to the outer (western) gopura. Before entering the gopura, take a quick diversion to the south where stands a grand statue of Vishnu, which, with its saffron drapery, is particularly photogenic in late afternoon.

After passing through the gopura you reach the most stunning of Angkor Wat's many viewpoints. Delayed until the last moment, as you step through the doorway you're treated to an absolute visual feast as the central temple is revealed in all of its splendour. From the western gopura walk down the central walkway which is flanked by two libraries, the northern one of which is being restored and to the two ponds. If you're arriving for dawn, the view from the northwest corner of the northern pond is the better of the two pond views. Following dawn, most tend to hustle into the central temple and climb to its apex, we'd suggest you instead do a loop through the galleries that encircle the monument first, saving the climb for later. Not only will you have them largely to yourself, but by the time you've finished (a full circuit at a slow pace takes an hour or so) the interior central temple will not be so crowded as many will have moved onto the Bayon.

The galleries display some of the most beautiful and intricate of Angkor's carvings and as with the Bayon this is a good area to have a guide to take you through the blow by blow details of the reliefs. In our opinion the three best sections are heavens and hell, churning of the sea of milk and battle of Lanka, but it is interesting (and good exercise) to walk through the lot.

In summary the main galleries are as follows:

Western wall southern section:
Battle of Kurukshetra
This 49 metre long stretch follows the battle of Kurukshetra -- a prominent Hindu epic between the sibling clans of Kauravas (from the left) and the Pandavas (from the right) for the throne of Hastinapura. It has been theorised that the battle took place in the modern state of Haryana in India around 3067BC and ran on for centuries. At each end of the relief note how orderly the two military processions are while towards the centre things get increasingly out of hand culminating in much death and mayhem. Look in particular for the chieftains carried in chariots and on elephant-back.

Southern wall western section
Historical gallery
This 90 metre gallery is dedicated to the creator of Angkor Wat, Suryavarman II and follows a regal procession which transforms into a military parade before changing again to a religious procession. Note how early on the relief is in two parts with the royalty and hangers-on in the top half while the palace women parade on the lower half. When the theme switches to a more militaristic theme, look for the many chiefs on elephant back -- their rank is marked by the number of parasols that surround them -- the King, Suryavarman II is on the 12th elephant. Later the soldiers disperse to be replaced by Brahmin priests with little bells while at the far end march some Siamese (who were Khmer allies of the time) note their distinctly different manner of dress, somewhat wild look and their casual marching.

Southern wall, eastern section
Heavens and hell
One of our favourite sections, the heaven and hell relief goes through the judging of the good and evil. Heaven may well look rather droll and boring, but it is certainly a better option than hell, where, the further you wander along, the more and more awful the punishments become. Tongues pulled out, being torn to pieces, boiled alive or having nails driven into the body are but a few of the punishments that wait for bad Khmers. The carvings are particularly graphic (more so on the hell side than the heaven side) -- note the emaciated state of those in hell as they are thrown around by demons and whipped into (or out of) shape.

Eastern wall, southern section
Churning of the sea of milk
Another spectacular piece, this 49 metre panel tells a part of the story of the Hindu creation epic the churning of the sea of milk. In this epic, the gods (to the left) and the demons (to the right) agree to cooperate to churn the sea of milk -- by churning it for 1,000 years an elixir that cause immortality is created and the gods and demons agreed to share it. Although not depicted in the mural, as soon as the elixir started to flow the gods reneged on their part of the deal while the demons tried to steal it. From that point on, everything goes pear-shaped. Note at the central part of the relief, towards the bottom, all the sea life that is being cut to pieces by the force of the churning. Just above them is a turtle, (a vehicle of the Hindu god Vishnu) which supports the mountain when it threatens to sink into the sea. Above the mountain Vishnu directs operations. This is a fascinating relief and catches the morning sun beautifully.

Eastern wall, northern section
Victory of Vishnu over the Asuras
This 52m metre stretch is pretty ordinary when compared to some of the other reliefs and is believed to have been carved a long time after the other reliefs, perhaps by Chinese artisans. The relief depicts Vishnu fighting a legion of Asuras (demons). One point of interest is just north of centre is a group of unknowns mounted on gigantic birds.

Northern wall, eastern section
Victory of Krishna over Bana
As with the Victory of Krishna over the Asuras, this is a poorly finished set of reliefs that stretches for 66 metres. Depicting another battle scene, many of the key deities can be picked out but the carving is so poor, you're better off continuing on to the next section where the workmanship improves considerably.

Northern wall, western section
Battle of Devas and Asuras
This 94 metre long panel contains a series of battle scenes between 21 of the most prominent members of the Hindu pantheon and their opposing demons. Some of the characters include Kubera the god of wealth, mounted on a peacock Skanda the god of war, Indra on a four tusked elephant, four-armed Vishnu upon Garuda, Yama the god of the dead, in a chariot drawn by oxen, Shiva with a drawn bow and also in a chariot, Brahma upon a goose, Surya the sun god and lastly Varuna the god of the waters with a five-headed tethered naga.

Western wall, northern section
Battle of Lanka
This 51 meter-long panel is one of the most outstanding, depicting a legendary battle in which Rama and his monkey-allies defeat Ravana in order to rescue Sita. The attention to detail is excellent and the monkey faces, some biting legs and arms of the enemy really add to the relief. Note some of the weapons which are used including tree trunks, stones and monkey teeth.

Once you have finished with the last of the reliefs, re-enter the western gopura and continue on to the central temple. This leads you upstairs through darkened passages to the central sanctuary where again the views are breathtaking -- particularly from any of the corners. At the southern side of the central tower a railing and some extra steps have been installed to allow for the final climb up into the apex. The stairs are very steep and more than one person has tumbled down in a pile of broken bones or even death. Please exercise care -- the view is indeed very fine, but those with a fear of heights should consider carefully before climbing. The western stairs are not as steep, but lack a handrail.

Once at the apex the views over the surrounds are spectacular.

Bakheng - Hilltop mob-scene

Description
The Bakheng temple sits atop the highest point in the area midway between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. From the 60-metre high summit enjoy spectacular views over Angkor Wat to the east and out to the sunset in the west.

As the state temple of the first city of Angkor, Yasodharapura, Bakheng sat at the centre of an earthen-walled enclosure that was even larger than that of nearby Angkor Thom -- measuring some four km along each of its four walls. The ruler of the time, Yasovarman I, son of Indravarman I, moved the capital here from Roulos, some 13km to the southeast of Siem Reap. Work began on the Bakheng at the end of the ninth century and was finished some time after the year 907 -- only to be abandoned a mere 21 years later in 928.

The summit was originally crowned with a multilevel pyramid which was partly hewn out of the mountain-top, partly built of stone. Atop the base sit five small stone towers which were partly pulled apart in the 16th century in an attempt to build a large stone seated Buddha on the site. Unfortunately the Buddha was never completed.

The summit can be reached either by climbing the very rough eastern staircase that runs to the summit, or by walking with the elephants via the elephant trail that slowly winds up the peak.

Bakheng is an extremely popular spot for visitors because of the terrific sunsets that can be admired from here and it's nothing short of a mob scene. Nevertheless, the hordes climb Bakheng for a reason and it is worth trying it at least one occasion. Try early morning for a very different experience.

Angkor Thom - Jayavarman VII's state capital

Description
One of the largest of the ancient Khmer cities, Angkor Thom (which means Great City) was the state capital of Jayavarman VII, who ruled the Khmer empire from around 1181 to 1220, with the site remaining in use for hundreds of years after his death. Work commenced on the city more or less as a rebuilding project after the previous state capital was sacked by marauding Chams.

The walled in enclosure is thought to have once supported a population of up to one million people although the vast majority lived outside the city's walls -- towards the East and West Barays and towards the Siem Reap River. As their houses would have been wood, nothing remains and the enclosure itself has been largely taken back by the forest.

The scale of Angkor Thom is daunting. It measures 3km in length on each of its four eight metre high walls -- all of which was once surrounded by a moat of up to 100 metres in width. While today much of the moat has been given over to rice paddie cultivation, it would be a safe assumption that the moat was once inhabited by something with a snappier bite than carp. There are five 20 metre tall gates, one on each of the south, west and north walls, with the eastern wall having two gates. The northernmost of the two eastern gates leads from the Royal Palace to the Eastern Baray. The centrepiece of Angkor Thom is the magnificent Bayon.

Most enter Angkor Thom via the southern gate as it's the closest gate to the main entrance to Angkor Wat. As with all five bridges, the bridge is flanked by two sets of statues -- recreating a scene taken from the legend of the Churning of the Sea of Milk -- to your left are gods, to the right demons, all dragging on massive naga balustrades. Some of the stuates are replicas while others have been transported from the lesser used bridges. The bridge backs onto a splendid example of the four-faced Bayon style gateway, which, with its imposing ten metres backing onto a leafy jungle backdrop gives visitors a fine idea of the site's majesty and also makes for an excellent photo.

The popularity of the southern gate also has a down side -- the traffic. In peak season waits of up to 20-30 minutes are not unheard of as buses, minibuses, cars, motorbikes, remorque motos and elephants (yes elephants) jostle for passage through the narrow gateway. During the planning the Khmer architects had allowed for the height of an elephant with a howdah and parasols but unfortunately not for the width of two 80-seat tour buses passing side by side.

While the southern gate is by far the most popular, if time allows it is worth trying some of the other gates for a bit of peace and quiet and also to garner a glimpse of the site in its more natural, semi-ruined state. One interesting option is to walk along the top of the wall from the southern gate around to the western gate, having your transport picking you up there. This route is great for bird watching and nature lovers.

Within its walls, Angkor Thom contains a number of temples including the Bayon, the Baphuon, Phimeanakas and the Elephant Terrace along with a swag of minor sites. Some of these predate the constuction of Angkor Thom.

The Bayon - A basket of bottles

Description
Certainly one of the most written-about and photographed of the monuments at Angkor, the Bayon, state temple of Jayavarman VII and some of his successors, is one of the most unusual religious monuments in the world.

When it was first visited by explorers the site was totally overgrown and slowly but steadily it was being destroyed by the jungle. Under the guidance of the first Angkor Conservator, Jean Commaille, the site was cleared between 1911 and 1913. At the time he lamented that "Every month, perhaps every day, some stones would fall. The complete ruin of the temple was only a matter of time, and it was necessary to consider how to halt it without further delay." While the restoration indeed saved the monument, some chose to not spare those behind it, labelling the ruins a "basket of bottles" once the clearing was complete. Commaille was murdered by armed robbers in 1916 and was buried to the southwest of the monument.

Stripped of the overgrowth, the Bayon was revealed as a three-tiered pyramid temple, with the central tower stretching to 45m in height. This central tower is topped with the largest examples of the all-facing all-seeing enigmatic faces that litter the temple throughout. Originally the Bayon was comprised of 54 towers, each of which supported four faces -- one looking to each of the north, south, east and west.

There's a number of theories behind the meaning of the faces. George Coedes, an archeologist who worked on Angkor in the 1930's surmised that the sculptures represented King Jayavarman VII as a God-King. It has also been suggested that the 54 towers represented the 54 provinces of the realm, with the King's face looking down upon the entire country.

While the monument feels quite cramped, the layout is actually pretty simple and you can admire the majority of the many beautiful bas-reliefs by exploring the monument in a circular fashion. The carvings encircle the entire monument and if you really want to get a good understanding of the bas-reliefs, a guide is a fine investment. Be sure to allow sufficient time to wander through -- some of the finest are on the outer wall of the southeast corner, but other areas, particularly the rear are very interesting and far less busy as the tour groups tend not to last this far.

One of the additional charms here is that different times of day do different favours for the temple and you can come here at almost anytime of the day and find an interesting quarter worth exploring, early morning though is particularly popular, as is -- if you can wangle something with the Apsara staff -- evening under a full moon, when the ghostlike appearance of the Bayon is both atmospheric and breathtaking.

Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace - Picnic by a Royal pond

Description
Phimeanakas sits just about at the centre of what was once the Royal Palace. The earliest remains here date back to the 10th century and were built during the reign of King Yasovarman I, while the palace itself is believed to have been built in the 11th century under the guidance of King Suryavarman I.

While the palace remained in use till the mid 1500s yet today little remains but the foundation work and a couple of ponds. Despite its largely ruined state, the royal enclosure remains nevertheless a fascinating area to walk through as the setting is lush and overgrown yet very accessible.

The three-level and over 30 metre high Phimeanakas (meaning Flying Palace in Sanskrit) is close to the centre of the complex, and from its apex there are good views over the surrounds. Believed to have once been covered in gold, all four stairways are guarded by stone lions and the corners bear elephants.

Please note that while the steep staircases can be climbed to enjoy a fine view, after rain the climb can be treacherous -- the flight of stairs at the rear of the temple is your best bet, but be very careful with your footing.

Sitting to the north of Phimeanakas is Srah Srei (Women's Bath) -- a large pond that's worth more than a cursory glance. Look for the detailed sea life carved into the walls of sandstone that form the edge of the pond. Creatures include crabs, giant lizards and fish along with the mandatory crocodiles. You're not permitted to swim in the pond, though the rule doesn't appear to extend to the local kids who don't mind a splash. Pack a picnic lunch for a midday break on the bank of a royal pond.

The Royal enclosure has five main gates, two on the north and south walls and one main gate on the east. If you take the westernmost of the two gates on the northern wall you can follow the trails for a back way to Preah Palilay. Likewise the western most southern gate is a short-cut to the Baphuon.

Baphuon - The world's biggest jigsaw puzzle

Description
If it remained standing, Baphuon would be, by far, the tallest of the monuments at Angkor. Once a temple mountain, Baphuon was little more than a rubble mountain when restoration work at Angkor first begun.

Work commenced on the Baphuon in the 1960's when the monument's 300,000 stones were dismantled and each one's unique position dutifully recorded by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient (EFEO). Then the 70's, the war and the Khmer Rouge came and for more than two decades work ground to a halt. During this hiatus, virtually all the supporting paperwork save some photos of the temple were lost, leaving the restorers in the unenviable situation of trying to assemble one the world's largest jigsaw puzzle.

Erected around 1060 during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II, the Baphuon was situated just to the south of the Royal enclosure and was easily the largest temple of its time. The Chinese diplomat Zhou Daguan, who visited Angkor in the 13th century, wrote "...rises the Tower of Bronze, higher even than the Golden Tower (Bayon): a truly astonishing spectacle".

While a portion of the site was re-opened to visitors in 2006, much of the site remains off-limits and signficantly less magnificent than when Zhou Daguan was in town. It will not be until at least 2008 that the entire site will be reopened to the public.

Terrace of Elephants - Lots and lots and lots of elephants

Description
Running for a full 300 metres from the Baphuon to the Terrace of the Leper King, the Terrace of Elephants looks out over the Royal Square of Angkor Thom and as the name suggests, is carved with lots and lots and lots of elephants. Try to visit here in early morning when the elephants catch the morning light nicely.

Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and added to by Jayavarman VIII, the Elephant Terrace makes for an interesting stroll, though unfortunately in the wet season the ground near the terrace if often flooded and/or sodden.

The three metre high terrace includes five staircases -- one at the north and south end and three running along its length, with the central set of stairs being the largest. In between the staircases, the wall is decorated with elephants and their mahouts in hunting scenes along with a generous dose of garudas and lion-like creatures.

The Elephant Terrace once supported the royal reception area and the many garudas and lion-like figures were intended to give the impression the royal entourage, shaded by their parasols and gold-topped pavilions, were being held aloft in the heavens.

Terrace of the Leper King - The legendary leper

Description
Believed to date to the 13th century, the six metre high Terrace of the Leper King is so named for the unusual statue of Yama, the God of the Underworld, which sits atop the terrace.

Stark naked, Yama sits with one knee raised, surveying the Royal Square. Because it is tainted by discoloration and lichen, the statue was believed to be one of a leper, and the name stuck. The statue is a replica, with the original now held in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

The Leper King Terrace is decorated with seven levels (the top level is almost all gone) of bas-relief carvings. Three of the four walls (east, north and south) are carved with very deep bas-reliefs. The carvings on the north wall are among the best -- keep an eye out for the sword swallower.

The terrace also has a hidden rear corridor which can be entered from either the southwest or northwest and which zigzags behind the main terrace. Along this secret passage the lower level of bas-reliefs represent the underworld -- keep an eye out for the particularly vivid expressions on some of the faces. Likewise watch out for the persistent children who will hassle you no end as they're out of sight of the Apsara staff.

Tep Pranam - A minor attraction

Description
Thought to date back to the 15th or 16th century, this large seated Buddha makes use of re-used stone blocks in its body. It sits just to the north of the Leper King Terrace and is worth a quick glance for its pleasant tree-filled setting. There's an active Buddhist temple at this site.

Preah Palilay - Very little visited

Description
Decorated with many scenes from Buddha's life and set amongst a stand of tall shade trees, Preah Palilay is one of the more under-rated sites within Angkor Thom.

The site is believed to take its name from Parilyyaka -- a forest that features in the stories of Buddha. This theory is supported by the range of Buddhist carvings at the site including one of Buddha calming an enraged elephant and another which depicts the offering of forest animals like monkeys, elephants and birds.

Thought to date back to the reign of Jayavarman VII, Preah Palilay remains a bit of a mystery. With its wealth of Buddhist iconography, it's considered highly unusual that the site survived the period that followed the death of Jayavarman VII. Instigated by his Hindu successor, Jayavarman VIII, a programme of sanctioned vandalism saw the destruction of many Buddhist icons throughout Angkor, yet Preah Palilay remained largely untouched.

As a site, surrounded by tall trees and nearly always devoid of other visitors, this is a pleasant spot to wander through either before or after Tep Pranam, which sits just a short walk away to the south.

Ta Keo - A massive temple mountain

Description
This massive temple mountain is almost 50 metres tall and was the first of the Khmer monuments to be built entirely of sandstone. One of the most striking facets of Ta Keo is its almost nude, entirely undecorated state. Although construction commenced during the reign of Jayavarman V (ruled from 968 to 1001), work ceased just after the carving begun.

Despite its no frills state, the temple is well worth visiting, particularly in the early morning and late afternoon when the light brings out the warm hues in the sandstone. The upper levels of the pyramid are so narrow that it's almost impossible to walk around them -- in contrast, the top level is refreshingly spacious and decorated with four corner towers and a larger central tower. The views over the surrounding forest, in all directions, are terrific.

The road passes by the south and western walls of Ta Keo and while the southern stairs are the most popular route, all the stairs here are very steep, so we'd suggest entering at the south, then taking a quick right and climbing Ta Keo from the west -- if nothing else it is a little less crowded.

Ta Nei - An excuse for a bush-walk

Description
This small, very rarely visited site is as much an excuse for a walk through the woods as an interesting site its own right. Built in the late 12th century during the reign of Jayavarman VII, Ta Nei is fairly small and was built with a mix of laterite and sandstone. The main point of interest are the often lichen-covered pediments and lintels, some of which remain in reasonable condition.

Ta Phrom - A crowd-pleasing favourite

Description
For many the highlight of a visit to Angkor, the decision by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient to leave Ta Phrom in its original state was inspired as although on places the trees are slowly destroying the monument, in others they're holding it together. Over-run by silk-cotton trees and strangler vines, Ta Phrom is about as atmospheric as Angkor gets, and although there is a fairly well travelled pathway through the monument, there are no shortage of nooks and crannies, alleys and backways to explore.

Built by Jayavarman VII for his mother, and consecrated in 1186, Ta Phrom was the centrepiece of a city of over 10,000 people and was also an active Buddhist monastery. While there are some interesting lintels and pediments distributed throughout the temple, for the casual visitor here, the main attraction are the trees -- in some places they've displaced the walls completely, leaving their roots to form the archways and rooves that were once made of stone.

A favourite among both professional and amateur photographers, remember the monuments are well shaded when taking pics and although your guide may encourage you to do so, please don't climb on the monument.

Ta Phrom, after Angkor Wat and Bayon, is probably the most popular monument, and while best visited in the early morning or afternoon, anytime is an interesting time. Take it slowly, finding spots to sit and take in the atmosphere as the crowds ebb and flow. Ta Phrom is large, so unlike Bayon it is more able to absorb large groups of people and it is rare that somewhere is crowded for more than five minutes -- take your time and slowly absorb this splendid site.

A visit here is best combined with a trip to Srah Srang and Bantaey Kdei -- starting at Srah Srang, then walking through Bantaey Kdei then entering Ta Phrom through its eastern gate.

Banteay Kdei - An under rated gem

Description
Lying to the west of the royal baths at Srah Srang and to the southeast of Ta Phrom, Banteay Kdei is a fusion of Angkor and Bayon styles. In its semi-ruined state, set on spacious, well forested grounds, this temple remains one of the most under rated of Angkor's temples. As far fewer visitors make it here compared to nearby Ta Phrom, take advantage of the low crowds by spending more time here taking in the feel of the place.

Although the site was extensively cleared between 1920 and 1922, stands of tall trees remain, some still attached to portions of the building. A large site -- the outer wall measures 500 metres by 700 metres, Banteay Kdei is believed to have been constructed in the late 12th to early 13th century, during the reign of King Jayavarman VII, atop a pre-existing site that dated back to the 10th century.

Banteay Kdei was a Buddhist monument and until the commencement of clearing in the early 1920s, a pagoda remained active at the site. Previously, during the reign of Jayavarman VIII the site was expanded, and many of the Buddhist statues were vandalised or destroyed.

As with the other tree-sheltered sites an early morning or late afternoon visit reaps slight dividends due to the shade, so this is a good one to visit mid-morning or mid-afternoon. An ideal way to visit is to begin at Srah Srang, walk through Banteay Kdei from east to west, then turn north and follow the wall up to Ta Phrom, entering at the eastern gate, walking through there and having your transport pick you up at the western gate of Ta Phrom.

Srah Srang - Royal baths -- no elephants allowed

Description
Translated as Royal Baths, according to one source, all creatures except elephants were allowed to bathe in Srah Srang, but today it is most popular as a refreshing dip for some of the local children.

Srah Srang is a medium sized baray running out to the east of Banteay Kdei towards Pre Rup. Some 700 metres long and 300 metres wide, the baray was constructed during the reign of King Jayavarman VII and has an almost sublime beauty to it -- Angkor expert Maurice Glaize compared its majestic calm to that of Piece d'eau des Suisses at Versailles, yet many today give it but a passing glance.

The western end of the Srah Srang remains in the best condition, lined by a long stone wall with a terrace and staircase at its centre. The stairs are flanked by nagas and fearsome lions as they run down to the water's edge. Dawn here is breathtaking and late afternoon is also particularly pleasant. Should you have ample time, you can walk all the way around its edge and there's also a bunch of food and drink stalls here should you be in need of refreshment.

Pre Rup - Top sunset spot

Description
Completed in 961 during the reign of King Rajendravarman, Pre Rup was constructed as his state temple following the establishment of a new capital on the southern bank of the eastern baray -- Pre Rup sat at the centre of this new capital.

Pre Rup means 'turn the body' a reference to the funereal rite where a corpse is turned on the charcoal. This name supported opinions (not universally held) that the Pre Rup was used for funerals -- an opinion further backed up by the discovery of a small stone cistern to the east of the entrance that is though to have had a funeral use.

Pre Rup is a temple-mountain with the central pyramid comprising three levels atop a larger two level base. Constructed mainly of laterite, brick and sandstone, the early morning and warming afternoon light can play beautifully on the temple's hues and tones.

The main attraction for the casual visitor are the sunset views -- Pre Rup makes an ideal alternative to some of the more popular sunset viewpoints. From the summit you can see Angkor Wat, and if you're lucky enough to have the site to yourself, the serenity here, with the jungle rambling off to Angkor Wat, is excellent.

Banteay Samre - The citadel of the Samre

Description
Banteay Samre translates as citadel of the Samre. The Samre were a group of people who populated the Kulen hills, and legend has it, ruled from Banteay Samre.

The story goes that a poor Samre farmer by the name of Pou had a particular talent for growing sweet cucumbers. When Pou presented some of the cucumbers to the then King, the King was so taken with them he secured the exclusive rights and commanded Pou to kill anybody who tried to enter his cucumber fields without permission. When cucumber production dropped off during the wet season, the King became impatient and snuck into the fields himself to try and source a few sweet cucumbers -- unfortunately for the King, the farmer followed his instructions and speared the King to death with a lance. When he realised his mistake he buried the King in the middle of the field and hoped nobody would notice.

Of course a missing King got tongues wagging and when a new King couldn't be decided on, the dignitaries went for divine inspiration and so brought in a divine elephant who would select the new King. The elephant walked straight to the farmer's shack where it then saluted him, lowered its trunk between its feet, knelt and then, encircled him with its trunk and placed him gently on its back.

Once King, Pou had the old King dug up and performed proper funeral rites at Pre Rup (guides more often tell this story at Pre Rup than at Banteay Samre). His subjects were a bit put out being ruled by a Samre, and despite all his efforts he couldn't get the respect he deserved, so in the end, Pou moved out to Banteay Samre and set up his court there.

Built by Suryavarman II and continued by Yasovarman II, Banteay Samre is belived to have been completed early in the 12th century. An extensive renovation from 1936 to 1944 was led by archeologist Maurice Glaize and the results are impressive. With its tall, windowless, laterite walls, the temple is rather citadel-like (banteay means citadel), and while the central tower may remind you of Angkor Wat, visitors who have seen the Khmer sites in Thailand will also notice the similarity to the temples at Phanom Rung and Phimai.

It is thought that the temple sat at the centre of a sizeable city as the eastern causeway (which was once flanked by a naga bridge) runs for 200m and it's easy to imagine the city surrounding it. Aside from the imposing outer wall, another point worth mention are the unusually deeply carved lintels and pediments -- while not as spectacular as Banteay Srei, they are nevertheless very attractive.

Best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, many choose to combine a visit here with the trek out to Banteay Srei, in which case you are best to visit Banteay Samre before Banteay Srei to avoid disappointment.

Preah Khan - Rambling and exquisite

Description
Completed in 1191, the fascinating site of Preah Khan was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father (he dedicated nearby Ta Phrom to his mother). Inscriptions also make reference to a lake of blood which could refer to a battle in the area during the expelling of the Chams from Angkor. (The Cham king was killed where Preah Khan now stands). Thought to have been a religious university, when completed Preah Khan was home to in excess of 1,000 teachers and had its own baray which ran out to the east of the site, but which has since run dry.

While largely cleared of overgrowth, Preah Kham can be one of the most rewarding temples to visit -- particularly in late afternoon or early morning when chances are you will have the entire place to yourself.

Sitting among the ruins here, watching the sun set through the trees surrounded by bird filled skies can be truly magical (until the security guards chuck you out, anyway). The inner sanctuary here, like many of Jayavarman VII's creations, is a hodgepodge maze of ponds and shrines, and while there is a straightforward path that you can take walking due east or west, there is no shortage of minor trails and pathways that you can wander through.

Some of the apsaras here remain in excellent condition as do a couple of the lintels. The central stupa that sits in the central sanctuary is paticularly photogenic. The vast majority of people enter Preah Khan from the west, but it is easily done from the east as well. Whichever way you do it, it is a good idea to ask your moto to wait for you at the other side to save your double-tracking to walk back.

Bakong - A great dawn alternative

Roulos Group

Description
Before its reconstruction, little remained of Bakong aside from a pile of rubble atop a small hill. Initial clearing work didn't commence until 1936 and the eventual reconstruction under the direction of Maurice Glaize (the conservator of Angkor from 1937 to 1945) took around seven years to complete. The results of this painstaking reconstruction are impressive. If you are planning more than just a day or two exploring the monuments, be sure to make time for Bakong.

Dating back to 881 during the reign of King Indravarman I, Bakong was the state temple of Hariharalaya. The layout of the site closely follows the principles of modelling Mount Meru with the moat surrounding the inner sanctum of five levels. From the apex of the site, the model plan is quite obvious.

The grounds within the moat include a collection of smaller buildings in variable states of repair and the view from the northeast corner takes in the whole complex pretty well. When you climb each of the five levels, make the time to walk all the way around before continuing up to the next level. Note the little elephants on each corner -- even the harness details are still visible on some. On the fourth level, be sure to walk around to the south side where a fine fragment of bas-relief remains -- illustrating apsaras fighting a losing battle.

When you reach the top level, turn and look back to the east for a tremendous view that illustrates the plan of the complex very well. To the west side we're told you can see Angkor Wat, but we couldn't -- perhaps with binoculars it's possible.

Exit the temple to the west, going straight down and you'll stumble upon the remains of Nandi (Shiva's favourite bull) -- there is actually one at the base of each cardinal points of Bakong, but the one at the west is the most bull-like, even if it still looks more like a cow.

Set a little over a kilometre off the main Siem Reap to Phnom Penh road at the 13km mark, Bakong is particularly splendid at dawn, and makes a fine contrast to the mob scenes you're likely to come across at Angkor Wat and some of the other more popular monuments.

Preah Ko - A minor stop

Roulos Group

Description
Built in 880, Preah Ko was the first temple Indravarman I built in Hariharalaya and what remains of it are six small brick towers sitting on a sandstone base along with a handful of outlying building in various states of ruins.

The sides of the doors of all three front brick temples contain long inscriptions, but the big find here was the temple foundation steele which was found in the gopura of the first enclosure. While the steele has been removed from the site, part of the inscription is the eulogy of King Indravarman I and reads according to G. Coedes in Maurice Glaize's Angkor:

The right arm of the prince is long, strong and fearsome in battle as his flashing sword falls on his enemies, defeating kings in every direction. Invincible, he can be appeased by two enemies only - those who have their backs turned, and those who, valuing life, put themselves under his protection.

The main point of interest here are the lime mortar lintels and other decorative work that was affixed to the brick towers. This is a site of ongoing reconstruction, so you cannot enter the towers.

Lolei - Only if you're in the area

Roulos Group

Description
You wouldn't know it when you're standing there, but Lolei actually sits atop an island in the middle of what was once a large reservoir measuring 3,800 metres by 800 metres.

Today the reservoir has been drained and is used for rice cultivation but the island still hosts Lolei and an active wat.

While credited to King Yasovarman I, the bulk of the basework was done by his father King Indravarman I who built the dyke and placed the island, leaving his son to build the actual temple, which was completed in 893 -- Sunday July 8th to be exact.

Lolei comprises four brick towers, none of which are in outstanding condition, varying from collapsed to the semi-restored. The highlight of Lolei are its lintels and door jambs which remain in good condition, but more interesting perhaps is the site's location within an active wat.

Phnom Krom - Spectacular views

12km from Siem Reap

Description
Set atop the small mountain near the ferry dock, and overlooking the Tonle Sap sits Phnom Krom, a 9th to 10th century temple built by King Yasovarman I. As you can't see the temple from ground level, the vast majority of visitors who arrive at Siem Reap via ferry whistle into Siem Reap oblivious to the site.

Phnom Krom sits within a 50 metre square enclosure, upon which are three ruined sandstone towers on a north-south axis. Running from north to south the towers are dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma.

Partly due to age, partly due to the use of sandstone and partly due to the prevailing strong winds that blow off the Tonle Sap, the decorative works throughout this site are in very poor condition. Nevertheless, the site is not a complete loss, as the views -- all 360 degrees of them, taking in from the Tonle Sap to the Western Baray -- are absolutely magnificent.

Phrom Krom is around 12km southwest of Siem Reap and can be accessed by either a long, steamy and sweaty climb up the stairs, or by road in a car or by motorbike -- your choice.

Phnom Bok - Shaded by frangapani, terrific views

Around 25km from Siem Reap

Description
Along with Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng, Phnom Bok is the third of King Yasovarman I's hilltop efforts. Quite isolated, the highlight of a visit here are the views and, when in flower, the beautiful frangapani trees that appear to almost explode out of the tops of two of the towers.

Once used as a strategic military post, Phnom Bok sits at the summit of the highest hill near to Angkor. At well over 200 metres high, this is considerably higher than Phnom Krom (140 metres) and Phnom Bakheng (a mere 60 metres). While the views here once had considerable military value, today they're far more valuable to the trickle of visitors that make it out here.

Some 25km from Siem Reap, Phnom Bok is reached by a road that splits off from the main drag to Banteay Srei. It's around another eight km from the main road.

Banteay Srei - Stunning carvings

32km from Siem Reap

Description
Undoubtedly Angkor's most beautiful temple, the soft pink sandstone and exceptional carvings of Banteay Srei never fail to delight the visitor.

Consecrated in 967, during the reign of King Rajendravarman, Banteay Srei was never a royal temple. It is thought to have been built by an advisor to the King and it is believed that this lack of a Royal go-ahead is one of the reasons why this temple is one of the smallest at Angkor.

What Banteay may lack in size it more than makes up for in beauty. The name translates as Citadel of Women and some have suggested the temple was built by a woman as no man could have created something so beautiful and with so fine a hand. The carvings cover an incredible amount of the temple's surface and the reliefs are often particularly deep, giving them a three dimensional appearance.

As with many Khmer temples, the main sections of Banteay Srei were built of laterite, but in an unusual departure instead of the carving being done into a plaster coating that was normally layered onto the stone, the temple was faced with pink sandstone and the carvings done into that. The results are breathtaking. Throughout the monument there's lintels, door jambs and window columns all layered with amazingly well executed and preserved carvings.

When the French came across the site in 1914 it was totally covered by forest and partly buried by the earth. Nevertheless it didn't take them long to realise they'd stumbled upon an outstanding find. So outstanding in fact that one French author, Andre Lalraux, decided to take a chunk of the temple home with him. He cut out over a tonne of the finest apsaras and other carvings and carted them back to Phnom Penh where he planned to surreptitiously freight his plunder back to France. Fortunately he was arrested and was sentenced to a couple of years prison (a term he never served) and the carvings were saved. Lalraux was later appointed Minister of Culture under Charles de Gaulle!

Banteay Srei is one of the most popular temples and, particularly in the morning, it is over-run with tour bus upon tour bus. While early morning is a great time to visit as the sun shining direct on the temple really brings out all its beauty, we'd suggest trying mid to late afternoon (though not too late) to try to dodge the worst of the hordes.

The temple is some 32km from Siem Reap and your transport will expect a surcharge to cart you out here -- be sure to agree on a price beforehand.

Phnom Kulen - Terrific views, shame about the admission fee

50km from Siem Reap

Description
Located some 50km from Siem Reap the daunting Phnom Kulen sandstone plateau is considered by Khmers as one of the most sacred spots in their entire country. It was on this plateau that Jayavarman II was consecrated as the first God-King and it was from Phnom Kulen that he declared Cambodia to be an independent state.

Aside from providing a fantastic viewpoint, the plateau is also home to Cambodia's largest reclining Buddha, a pretty waterfall, a handful of Cham and Khmer temples, and, particularly well hidden away, a bunch of mythical stone guardians including a very impressive life-size stone elephant -- you will need a guide and a motorbike to find the guardians.

The plateau is well wooded and due to its almost 500 metres in height the temperature is characterised by cool evenings and crisp mornings. For a long time well off the beaten-track, some tour companies now run trekking and camping trips to Phnom Kulen.

Sounds great, but there's a catch. A Khmer businessman built the road up to the summit and charges US$20 per foreigner to use his private road. There's nothing that can be done about it as, afterall, he did build the road, but it is a very disappointing state of affairs and results in many visitors boycotting the site.

Kbal Spean - River of a thousand linga

50km northeast of Siem Reap

Description
Along with Phnom Kulen, Kbal Spean is regarded as a particularly auspicious location as it is from this hill that the Kbal Spean river flows down to join the larger Siem reap river which eventually empties out into Tonle Sap. Before it leaves the hill though, the water is blessed by flowing over some 100 metres of sacred linga and Hindu deities that have been carved into its bedrock riverbed. Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma are all in attendance, and the Sanskrit name, Sahasralinga, or river of a thousand lingas indicates the quantity of linga (though there's not really 1,000).

Best at the tail-end of the wet season (October to December), Kbal Spean is well worth a visit -- both for the intricate carvings and the very pleasing, verdant jungle setting. There's also a medium-sized waterfall nearby and a couple of small swimming holes if you feel you're in need of a bit of blessing yourself.

Located around 50km northeast of Siem Reap, the site is reached via a 1.5 km trail that winds up from the carpark to the riverbed. Your moto will expect extra payment to bring you here -- be sure to agree on a price beforehand.

Beng Mealea - Spectacular jungle ruins

80km from Siem Reap

Description
One of our favourite sites, Beng Mealea sits on the ancient royal road from Angkor Wat to Preah Khan (in Preah Vihear province) and was built around the same time as Angkor Wat during the reign of King Suryavarman II.

With a similar totally overgrown feel as with Ta Phrom, the atmosphere at Beng Mealea (which means Lotus Pond) is like no other -- don't be surprised to see Tomb Raider or Indiana Jones on site. Badly ruined in places, an elevated wooden walkway has been built throughout the site which makes it more accessible and also allows for some rather unusual elevated views you wouldn't otherwise be able to enjoy.

Sadly looters did a fair degree of damage here -- we were told the central tower was dynamited in order to get at certain pieces for private collectors. Many pieces lay atop one another in chaotic piles of moss and lichen covered stone -- but upon closer inspection you'll see many a decorative piece amongst the bare building blocks.

This area was heavily mined -- according to our guide the site had been mined by Lon Nol forces, Khmer Rouge and the Vietnamese -- considerably complicating the demining work. While the demining has been completed, this still isn't an area to go bush-bashing in.

Beng Mealea is not covered by the Angkor Pass and there's an admission fee of US$20 to enter, though unlike Phnom Kulen it's probably worth it.