Things to do in Angkor

Angkor  » Sights & attractions  » Getting there & away

Angkor Wat

Described by Frenchman Francis Garnier as "the masterpiece of an unknown Michelangelo", Angkor Wat, or the city that became a pagoda, is the single largest religious monument in the world.

Built from 1113 during the reign of King Suryavarman II, Angkor Wat took well over 30 years to complete and was dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. In size alone Angkor Wat is breathtaking. The outer walls stretch for 1.5km east to west and 1.3km north to south, and the walls are encircled by a beautiful moat almost 200m wide — the entire site takes in some 200 hectares.

Unusually for a Khmer temple, Angkor Wat is orientated to the west. As the west is symbolically associated both with death and Vishnu, some debate has flared over the purpose of the complex — tomb or temple? The prevalent opinion is that Angkor Wat was both — a temple to Vishnu and a tomb for its creator, Suryavarman II.

Like all temple mountains, Angkor Wat is a model of the divine — playing out Hindu mythology in both its construction and spectacular bas reliefs. At the centre of the Hindu (and Buddhist) universe sits Mount Meru, a holy peak some 750,000km high on the mythical continent Jambudvipa. Atop the mountain sits the home of Brahma and other gods of both religions. At Angkor Wat, this mountain is represented by Angkor's central tower which in turn is surrounded by smaller peaks, then the continents are represented by the outer courtyards and finally the ocean is illustrated with the moat. A naga bridge allowed people to cross from the land of mortals to that of the Gods — the sandstone causeway that you see today running across the moat from the west.

In walking across Angkor's naga bridge and entering the complex, you are traversing the ocean from the real world to that of the gods — stepping from continent to continent and then scaling a peak some 750,000km high — there's no escalator.

At the time of its construction the outer walls would have encircled not just the central temple but also a city of considerable size along with the palace. As these buildings were wooden, nothing remains, although some remnants of the road within the city were traced out as part of restoration work. Angkor's most famous custodian, Frenchman Maurice Glazier, commented that of all the Angkorian monuments, Angkor Wat, protected by its large moat, was the best placed to withstand the onslaught of the jungle. This protection was further assisted by the fact that since the mid-13th century, Angkor Wat remained in use as a place of Buddhist worship. A temple remains within its grounds to this day, supplying a steady flow of saffron clad monks for your holiday snaps.

When approaching from the west, one needs to cross the moat via the still-being-restored sandstone causeway to the outer (western) gopura. Before entering the gopura, take a quick diversion to the south where a grand statue of Vishnu stands. With its saffron drapery, it's particularly photogenic in late afternoon.

After passing through the gopura, you reach the most stunning of Angkor Wat's many viewpoints. Delayed until the last moment, as you step through the doorway you're treated to an absolute visual feast as the central temple is revealed in all of its splendour. From the western gopura, walk down the central walkway which is flanked by two libraries, the northern one of which is being restored, and to the two ponds. If you're arriving for dawn, the view from the northwest corner of the northern pond is the better of the two pond views. Following dawn, most tend to hustle into the central temple and climb to its apex. We'd suggest you instead do a loop through the galleries that encircle the monument first, saving the climb for later. Not only will you have the galleries largely to yourself, but by the time you've finished (a full circuit at a slow pace takes an hour or so) the interior central temple will not be so crowded as many will have moved on to the Bayon.

The galleries display some of the most beautiful and intricate of Angkor's carvings and as with the Bayon, this is a good spot to have a guide to take you through the blow by blow details of the reliefs. Look out in particular for the beautiful Heavens and Hell, Churning of the Sea of Milk and Battle of Lanka, though it's all interesting (and makes for good exercise too).

In summary the main galleries are as follows:

Western wall, southern section:
Battle of Kurukshetra
This 49m-long stretch follows the battle of Kurukshetra — a prominent Hindu epic between the sibling clans of Kauravas (from the left) and the Pandavas (from the right) for the throne of Hastinapura. It has been theorised that the battle took place in the modern state of Haryana in India around 3067BC and ran on for centuries. At each end of the relief note how orderly the two military processions are while towards the centre things get increasingly out of hand, culminating in much death and mayhem. Look in particular for the chieftains carried in chariots and on elephant-back.

Southern wall, western section
Historical gallery
This 90m gallery is dedicated to the creator of Angkor Wat, Suryavarman II, and follows a regal procession which transforms into a military parade before changing again to a religious procession. Note how early on the relief is in two parts with the royalty and hangers-on in the top half while the palace women parade on the lower half. When the theme switches to become more militaristic, look for the many chiefs on elephant back — their rank is marked by the number of parasols that surround them. The king, Suryavarman II, is on the 12th elephant. Later the soldiers disperse to be replaced by Brahmin priests with little bells, while at the far end march some Siamese (who were Khmer allies of the time). Note their distinctly different manner of dress, somewhat wild look and their casual style of marching.

Southern wall, eastern section
Heavens and Hell
One of our favourite sections, the heaven and hell relief goes through the judging of the good and evil. Heaven may well look rather droll and boring, but it is certainly a better option than hell. The further along you wander, the more and more awful the punishments become. Tongues are pulled out, bodies torn to pieces or boiled alive, and nails are driven into bodies — just a few of the punishments that wait for bad Khmers. The carvings are particularly graphic — note the emaciated state of those in hell as they are thrown around by demons and whipped into (or out of) shape.

Eastern wall, southern section
Churning of the Sea of Milk
Another spectacular piece, this 49m panel tells a part of the story of the Hindu creation epic, the churning of the sea of milk. In this epic, the gods (to the left) and the demons (to the right) agree to cooperate to churn the sea of milk. Churning it for 1,000 years creates an elixir that causes immortality, and the gods and demons agree to share it. Although not depicted in the mural, as soon as the elixir starts to flow the gods renege on their part of the deal while the demons try to steal it. Note at the central part of the relief, towards the bottom, all the sea life being cut to pieces by the force of the churning. Just above them is a turtle (a vehicle of the Hindu god Vishnu), which supports the mountain when it threatens to sink into the sea. Above the mountain Vishnu directs operations. This is a fascinating relief and catches the morning sun beautifully.

Eastern wall, northern section
Victory of Vishnu over the Asuras
This 52m stretch is somewhat ordinary when compared to some of the other reliefs, and is in fact thought to have been carved a long time after them, perhaps by Chinese artisans. The relief depicts Vishnu fighting a legion of Asuras (demons). One point of interest is just north of centre, where there is a group of unknowns mounted on gigantic birds.

Northern wall, eastern section
Victory of Krishna over Bana
As with the Victory of Krishna over the Asuras, this is a poorly finished set of reliefs that stretches 66m. Depicting another battle scene, many of the key deities can be picked out but the carving is so poor, you're better off continuing quickly on to the next section where the quality of work improves considerably.

Northern wall, western section
Battle of Devas and Asuras
This 94m-long panel depicts a series of battle scenes between 21 of the most prominent members of the Hindu pantheon and their opposing demons. Some of the characters include Kubera, the god of wealth, mounted on a peacock Skanda the god of war, Indra on a four-tusked elephant, four-armed Vishnu upon Garuda, Yama the god of the dead in a chariot drawn by oxen, Shiva with a drawn bow and also in a chariot, Brahma upon a goose, Surya the sun god and lastly Varuna, the god of the waters with a five-headed tethered naga.

Western wall, northern section
Battle of Lanka
This 51m-long panel is one of the most outstanding, depicting a legendary battle in which Rama and his monkey-allies defeat Ravana in order to rescue Sita. The attention to detail is excellent and the monkey faces, some biting legs and arms of the enemy, really add to the relief. Note some of the weapons used include tree trunks, stones and monkey teeth.

Once you have finished with the last of the reliefs, re-enter the western gopura and continue on to the central temple. This leads you upstairs through darkened passages to the central sanctuary, where again the views are breathtaking — particularly from any of the corners. At the southern side of the central tower a railing and some extra steps have been installed to allow for the final climb up to the apex. The stairs are very steep and more than one person has tumbled down in a pile of broken bones. Exercise care — the view is indeed very fine, but those with a fear of heights should consider carefully before climbing. The western stairs are not as steep, but lack a handrail.

Once at the apex the views over the surrounds are spectacular.

Bakheng

The Bakheng sits atop the highest point in the area midway between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom. From the 60m-high summit enjoy spectacular views over Angkor Wat to the east and the sunset to the west.

As the state temple of the first city of Angkor, Yasodharapura, Bakheng sat at the centre of an earthen-walled enclosure that was even larger than that of nearby Angkor Thom — measuring some 4km along each of its four walls. The ruler of the time, Yasovarman I, son of Indravarman I, moved the capital here from Roulos, some 13km to the southeast of Siem Reap. Work began on the Bakheng at the end of the ninth century and was finished some time after the year 907 — only to be abandoned a mere 21 years later.

The summit was originally crowned with a multilevel pyramid which was partly hewn out of the mountaintop, partly built of stone. Atop the base sits five small stone towers which were partly pulled apart in a 16th century attempt to build a large stone seated Buddha on the site. The Buddha was never completed.

The summit can now only be reached by walking either on or with the elephants via the trail that winds up the peak — the eastern staircase has been closed for safety reasons.

Bakheng is an extremely popular spot for visitors because of the terrific sunsets that can be admired from here and it's nothing short of a mob scene. Nevertheless, the hordes climb Bakheng for a reason and it is worth trying it at least once. Go early morning for a very different experience.

Baksei Chamkrong

This single brick tower is set on a steep laterite stepped pyramid, located just off the road between Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom at the foot of Phnom Bakheng.

A small but delightfully proportioned temple, Baksei Chamkrong is well worth a quick stop if you're passing by. Set among tall trees it's an oasis of tranquility, with often plentiful birdlife, before you reach the hectic South gate of Angkor Thom.

Baksei Chamkrong is one of the few constructions dating to the short reign of Harshavarman I (910 to 922), and was built in honour of his parents — being aptly situated at the foot of his father's greatest achievement, the temple of Bakheng. There are some well-preserved sandstone carvings including an impressive lintel of Indra riding the three-headed elephant Airavata.

The temple was repaired and re-consecrated by Rajendravarman II in 948 after a period of civil war had caused extensive damage to the capital of Yasodharapura.

More details
About 300m south of Angkor Thom's south gate, on the west side of the road

Angkor Thom

One of the largest of the ancient Khmer cities, Angkor Thom (which means Great City) was the state capital of Jayavarman VII and was believed to support a population of over a million.

Jayavarman VII ruled the Khmer empire from around 1181 to 1220, with the site remaining in use for hundreds of years after his death. Work commenced on the city more or less as a rebuilding project after the previous state capital was sacked by marauding Chams.

While the vast majority of people are believed to have lived outside the city's walls — towards the East and West Barays and Siem Reap river — nothing remains of their wooden dwellings and the enclosure itself has been largely taken back by the forest.

The scale of Angkor Thom is daunting. It measures 3km in length on each of its four 8m-high walls — all of which was once surrounded by a moat up to 100m wide. While today much of the moat has been given over to rice cultivation, it would be a safe assumption that the moat was once inhabited by something with a snappier bite than carp. There are five 20m-tall gates, one on each of the south, west and north walls, with the eastern wall having two. The northernmost of the two eastern gates leads from the Royal Palace to the Eastern Baray. The centrepiece of Angkor Thom is the magnificent Bayon.

Most enter Angkor Thom via the southern gate as it's the closest to the main entrance to Angkor Wat. As with all five bridges, the bridge here is flanked by two sets of statues recreating a scene taken from the legend of the Churning of the Sea of Milk. To your left are gods and to the right demons, all dragging on massive naga balustrades. Some of the statues are replicas while others have been transported from the lesser used bridges. The bridge backs onto a splendid example of the four-faced Bayon-style gateway, which with its imposing 10m backing onto a leafy jungle backdrop gives visitors a fine idea of the site's majesty, and also makes for an excellent photo.

The popularity of the southern gate also has a downside — the traffic. In peak season waits of up to 30 minutes are not unheard of as buses, minibuses, cars, motorbikes, remorque motos and elephants jostle for passage through the narrow gateway. During planning the Khmer architects had allowed for the height of an elephant with a howdah and parasols, but not for the width of two 80-seat tour buses passing side by side.

If time allows, it's worth trying some of the other gates for a bit of peace and quiet, and also to garner a glimpse of the site in its more natural, semi-ruined state. One interesting option is to walk along the top of the wall from the southern gate around to the western gate, having your transport pick you up there. Nature lovers and bird watchers should enjoy this route.

Within its walls, Angkor Thom contains a number of temples, including the Bayon, the Baphuon, Phimeanakas and the Elephant Terrace, along with a swag of minor sites. Some of these predate the construction of Angkor Thom.

More details
Angkor Thom's southern gate is around 2km north of Angkor Wat's west gate

The Bayon

Certainly one of the most written-about and photographed of the monuments at Angkor, the Bayon, often likened to a basket of bottles, is one of the most unusual religious monuments in the world.

The Bayon was the state temple of Jayavarman VII and some of his successors. When it was first visited by Western explorers, the site was totally overgrown, slowly but steadily being reclaimed by the jungle. Under the guidance of the first Angkor Conservator, Jean Commaille, the site was cleared between 1911 and 1913. At the time he lamented that "Every month, perhaps every day, some stones would fall. The complete ruin of the temple was only a matter of time, and it was necessary to consider how to halt it without further delay." While the restoration indeed saved the monument, some chose to not spare those behind it, labelling the ruins a "basket of bottles" once the clearing was complete. Commaille was murdered by armed robbers in 1916 and is buried to the southwest of the monument.

Stripped of the overgrowth, the Bayon was revealed as a three-tiered pyramid temple, with the central tower stretching to 45m in height. This central tower is topped with the largest examples of the all-facing, all-seeing enigmatic faces that litter the temple throughout. Originally the Bayon was comprised of 54 towers, each of which supported four faces — one looking to each point of the compass. Today, 49 towers remain.

Theories behind the meaning of the faces have flourished. George Coedes, an archeologist who worked on Angkor in the 1930s, surmised that the sculptures represented King Jayavarman VII as a god-king. It has also been suggested that the 54 towers represented the 54 provinces of the realm, with the king's face looking over the entire country.

While the monument feels quite cramped, the layout is pretty simple and you can admire the majority of the many beautiful bas-reliefs by exploring in a circular fashion. The carvings encircle the entire monument and if you really want to get a good understanding of the bas reliefs, a guide is a fine investment. Be sure to allow sufficient time to wander through — some of the finest are on the outer wall of the southeast corner, but other areas, particularly the rear, are very interesting and far less busy as the tour groups tend not to last that far.

One of the additional charms here is that different times of day do different favours for the temple. You can come here at almost any time of the day and find an interesting quarter worth exploring. Early morning though is particularly popular, as is — if you can wangle something with the Apsara staff — evening under a full moon, when the ghostlike appearance of the Bayon is breathtaking.

More details
At the absolute centre of Angkor Thom

Baphuon

If it had remained standing, Baphuon would be by far the tallest of the monuments at Angkor. Once a temple mountain, Baphuon was little more than a rabble of rubble when restoration work at Angkor first began.

Work commenced on the Baphuon in the 1960s when the monument's 300,000 stones were dismantled and each one's unique position meticulously recorded by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient (EFEO). Then the 70s — war and the Khmer Rouge — descended and for more than two decades work was suspended. During this hiatus, virtually all the supporting paperwork save some photos of the temple were lost, leaving the restorers in the unenviable situation of trying to assemble possibly the world's largest jigsaw puzzle.

Erected around 1060 during the reign of King Udayadityavarman II, the Baphuon was situated just to the south of the Royal enclosure and was easily the largest temple of its time. It consists of a long, narrow entry path boosted by columns. China's Zhou wrote that here "...rises the Tower of Bronze, higher even than the Golden Tower: a truly astonishing spectacle".

The entrance path was the only accessible site when we last visited in mid 2009. The square building, shaped a bit like a three-tier cake collapsing at the top, remained cordoned off. Several of the base towers flanking the main building have been rebuilt, but the tower itself still looks quite fragile. The Buddha statue on the western face of the temple is supposedly accessible from 07:00 to 15:00 daily, with a temporary wooden staircase leading visitors up to that section of the building. But the staircase was gated and padlocked when we visited, and looked like it had been for some time.

More details
400m north of the Bayon, to the west

Terrace of Elephants

Stretching for a full 300m from the Baphuon all the way to the Terrace of the Leper King, the photogenic Terrace of Elephants surveys the Royal Square of Angkor Thom.

As the name suggests, it's carved with lots and lots and lots of elephants. Try to visit here in early morning, when the elephants catch the morning light nicely.

Built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and added to by Jayavarman VIII, the Elephant Terrace makes for an interesting stroll, though during the monsoon the ground near the terrace is often flooded or at least sodden.

The 3m-high terrace includes five staircases — one at the north and south end and three running along its length, with the central set of stairs being the largest. In between the staircases, the wall is decorated with elephants and their mahouts in hunting scenes, along with a generous sprinkling of garudas and lion-like creatures.

The Elephant Terrace once supported the royal reception area and the many garudas and lion-like figures were intended to give the impression that the royal entourage, shaded by their parasols and gold-topped pavilions, were being held aloft in the heavens.

More details
Immediately to the north of Baphuon

Phimeanakas and the Royal Palace

A rambling and well-forested enclosure, Phimeanakas (described as a "Tower of Gold") and the Royal Palace provides a fascinating glimpse into how the Khmer god-kings lived their lives.

Phimeanakas sits just about at the centre of what was once the Royal Palace. The earliest remains here date back to the second half of the 10th century and were built during the reign of King Yasovarman I, while the palace itself is believed to have been built in the 11th century under the guidance of Suryavarman I.

While the palace remained in use till the mid-1500s, today little remains but the foundation work and a couple of ponds. Despite its largely ruined state, the royal enclosure remains a fascinating area to walk through as the setting is lush and overgrown, yet very accessible.

The three-level and over 30m-high Phimeanakas (meaning "flying palace" in Sanskrit) is close to the centre of the complex, and from its apex there are good views over the surrounds. Believed to have once been covered in gold, all four stairways are guarded by stone lions and the corners bear elephants. Legend has it that King Suryavarman used to sleep here with his lover, a serpent woman. The Chinese diplomat Zhou Daguan, who visited Angkor in the 13th century, called this the "Tower of God".

Only the rear staircase is accessible, where a wooden staircase with a handrail has been built atop the worn stone steps.

Sitting to the north of Phimeanakas is Srah Srei (Women's Bath), a large pond worth more than a cursory glance. Look for the detailed sea life carved into the walls of sandstone that form the edge of the pond. Creatures include crabs, giant lizards and fish, along with the mandatory crocodiles. You're not permitted to swim in the pond, though the rule doesn't appear to extend to the local kids who don't mind a splash. Pack a picnic lunch for a midday break on the banks here.

The royal enclosure has five main gates, two on the north and south walls and one main gate on the east. If you take the westernmost of the two gates on the northern wall you can follow the trails for a back way to Preah Palilay. Likewise the westernmost southern gate is a shortcut to the Baphuon.

More details
To the west (behind) the Elephant and Leper King Terraces

Terrace of the Leper King

Commencing where the Elephant Terrace left off, and believed to date to the 13th century, the 6m-high Terrace of the Leper King is so named for the statue of Yama, the God of the Underworld, atop it.

Stark naked, Yama sits with one knee raised, surveying the Royal Square. Because it is tainted by discolouration and lichen, the statue was believed to be one of a leper, and the name stuck. The statue is a replica, with the original now held in the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

The Leper King Terrace is decorated with seven levels (the top level is almost all gone) of bas relief carvings. Three of the four walls (east, north and south) are carved with very deep bas reliefs. The carvings on the north wall are among the best — keep an eye out for the sword swallower.

The terrace also has a hidden rear corridor which can be entered from either the southwest or northwest and which zigzags behind the main terrace. Along this secret passage the lower level of bas reliefs represent the underworld — keep an eye out for the particularly vivid expressions on some of the faces. Likewise watch out for the persistent children who will hassle you no end as they're out of sight of the Apsara staff.

More details
North of the Elephant Terrace

Tep Pranam

Thought to date back to the 15th or 16th century, this large seated Buddha makes use of re-used stone blocks in its body and remains an active site of worship among local Khmers.

It sits just to the north of the Leper King Terrace and is worth a quick glance for its pleasant tree-filled setting. An active Buddhist temple is at the site.

More details
About 100m north to the Leper King Terrace

Preah Palilay

Decorated with scenes from Buddha's life and set among a cluster of tall shade trees, Preah Palilay is one of the more underrated sites within Angkor Thom and contains a mix of Buddhist and Hingu imagery.

The site is believed to take its name from Parilyyaka — a forest that features in the stories of Buddha. This theory is supported by the range of Buddhist carvings at the site, including one of Buddha calming an enraged elephant and another depicting the offering of forest animals like monkeys, elephants and birds.

Thought to date back to the reign of Jayavarman VII, Preah Palilay remains a bit of a mystery. With its wealth of Buddhist iconography, it's considered highly unusual that the site survived the period that followed the death of Jayavarman VII. Instigated by his Hindu successor, Jayavarman VIII, a programme of sanctioned vandalism saw the destruction of many Buddhist icons throughout Angkor, yet Preah Palilay remained largely untouched.

Surrounded by towering trees and nearly always devoid of other visitors, this is a pleasant spot to wander through either before or after Tep Pranam, which sits just a short walk away to the south.

More details
About 200m to the northwest of Tep Pranam

Suor Prat

The dozen towers that comprise the Suor Prat towers stand directly opposite the Palace enclosure and are placed symmetrically on either side of the royal road leading from the Victory gate to the Elephant Terrace.

Really only of interest to those who have a pressing need to closely examine every single Angkor site, Suor Prat is believed to date to the early 13th century during the reign of Indravarman II. The purpose of the towers remains unknown. The name Prasat Suor Prat means "temple of the tightrope walkers" and one story suggests that the towers were used for conflict mediation. Squabbling parties were required to sit in separate towers, apparently for days, until whichever party was in the wrong got sick, while the party in the right would display no signs of sickness. Another story suggests the towers were used as anchors for tightrope artists and other performers, though building a dozen brick towers to support a tightrope performance seems excessive — even by Angkorian standards.

More details
Opposite the Elephant and Leper King Terraces

Khleangs

Set opposite the Royal Enclosure, behind Suor Prat and placed symmetrically on either side of the royal road to the Victory gate, the distinctive north and south Khleangs gave birth to their own style.

This style — the aptly named Khleang style — is also evidenced at Phimeanakas and Ta Keo. While the two appear to have been constructed as a set, that isn't the case. The northern Khleang was built first, by Jayaviravarman, with the southern following later during the reign of Suryavarman I, but was never finished.

Their actual purpose is a bit of a mystery, though given the name means "storeroom" it has been suggested that they were used to, well, store things — perhaps even people in the form of visiting foreign dignitaries.

It isn't really worth going out of your way for though the northern Khleang contains some heraldic style lintels in reasonable condition.

More details
Behind (to the east) of Suor Prat

Preah Pithu

This collection of five temples, huddled to the north of the northern Khleang, (more or less opposite Tep Pranam), is largely ignored by most Angkor visitors.

However, if time allows, it is well worth a wander through, and you'll have the advantage of having the place pretty much to yourself. The partly forested and monkeyed location with small moats and ponds dotted around makes for a great setting for some unusual little temples — even if their origin and purpose remains a mystery.

They clearly date from different periods yet were all built close together in a relatively small area close to the centre of Angkor Thom, so were obviously of great significance to the rulers who built them. Some of the later Pithu temples are among the last stone constructions to be found at Angkor and some were added to as late as the 16th century. Many are now in a fairly ruinous state though they contain interesting carvings — lots of which are just lying around on the ground.

The earliest seems to be Temple Y — situated on a small hill — which is in the style of Angkor Wat so provisionally dated to the reign of Suryavarman II, though no inscriptions have been found at any of this group. Several interesting lintels representing scenes from Hindu mythology survive.

Temple U appears to date to the same period, with typical Angkor Wat period subjects for its carving subjects, though it is significant that the Churning of the Sea of Milk depicted there runs from East to West rather than North to South — a total Hindu faux pas which is difficult to imagine Suryavarman letting his workers get away with! The high and steep sandstone base for Temple U is also Angkor Wat style though it may well be a case of a later, unknown king copying his more glorious predecessor's work.

Temple T, also on a high sandstone base, is equally difficult to date, possessing some Bayon-style features, apsaras with some classic Hindu mythological images again carved in unorthodox ways. It also has the classic naga-lined entrance platform typical of late Bayon and Indravarman II period. As with the other temples in the group it appears that they were added to and 'upgraded' over time by different kings which emphasises their importance.

Temple V seems to be of a later date — even post-Bayon, and with its Hindu themes may possibly be one of the rare constructions from the reign of Jayavarman VIII. It is also pretty ruined and again set on a high sandstone base. (You get some good views from the tops of some of these temples.)

The most recent of the group is Temple X — a single sandstone tower built on a massive sandstone platform. Whenever the initial construction was made, the carvings are now exclusively Buddhist at this temple and of a late Thai-style period (14th - 16th century) making this a unique temple at Angkor in that it is the only one obviously belonging to the Theravada rather than Mahayana Buddhist faith. Check out the central shrine where the interior is covered in seated Buddhas!

More details
About 100m north of the Northern Khleang

Mangalartha

A pleasant stroll takes you to Mangalartha — take the track leading to the East gate of Angkor Thom and some 200-300m before arriving you'll see a track branching off to the right.

This is a small single-shrined, sandstone temple set in dense forest. While it's an attractive setting, the temple isn't spectacular albeit with some decent carvings lying around. Its importance lies in it being, with the exception of upgrades to some of the Preah Pithu group, one of the last stone temples to be built at Angkor.

If you want a bit of peace and quiet and fancy a stroll in the woods, wander down to the well preserved but rarely visited east gate (Death Gate) and take in Mangalartha on the way!

More details
Southwest corner of Angkor Thom

Krol Romeas

One of Angkor's little known curiosities! Normally stone could only be used for religious buildings and while the Khmers made an exception for bridges, which they built out of laterite, they also made an exception for Krol Romeas.

Situated in a wooded area just to the right of the road after leaving Angkor Thom's north gate on the way to Preah Khan, Krol Romeas is not a temple and is thought to have been constructed as an ............. (We'll let you guess!). All that can be seen today is a deep laterite walled enclosure or pit with obvious evidence of additional wooden constructions. Clue — it was within easy distance of the parade ground and royal palace area, but just outside the populated area of 'downtown' Angkor Thom.

More details
East side of the road upon exiting via Angkor Thom's northern gate

Banteay Thom

Another cute little temple in a great setting that is also practically never visited. Banteay Tom does require a walk — there's no road going to it but then so much the better.

Head past Preah Khan's west gate then follow the signs down a track to the left to the village of Nokor Krao. Once there, park and follow a footpath for a kilometre or two through paddy and scrubland until you hit the temple. It isn't easy to find but the villagers will guess why you're there and will point you in the right direction if you ask for 'Prasart Banteay Tom'.

The temple itself, built during the Jayavarman VII period, is in a fairly ruinous state but two central towers still survive along with a ruined library, an eastern gopura in good condition, apsaras and tapestry reliefs and a surrounding covered walkway with some roof sections. There are a couple of good lintels and some carvings lying on the ground though you can see evidence of recent looting at this remote site.

More details
2-3km to the northwest of Preah Khan's west gate

Preah Khan

While largely cleared of overgrowth, Preah Kham can be one of the most rewarding temples to visit, particularly in late afternoon or early morning when chances are you will have the entire place to yourself.

Completed in 1191, the fascinating site of Preah Khan was built during the reign of Jayavarman VII and dedicated to his father (he dedicated nearby Ta Phrom to his mother). Inscriptions also make reference to a lake of blood, which could refer to a battle in the area during the expelling of the Cham from Angkor. (The Cham king was killed where Preah Khan now stands). Thought to have been a religious university, when completed Preah Khan was home to in excess of 1,000 teachers, and had its own baray which ran out to the east of the site, but which has since run dry.

Sitting among the ruins here, watching the sun set through the trees surrounded by bird-filled skies can be truly magical (until the security guards chuck you out, anyway). The inner sanctuary here, like many of Jayavarman VII's creations, is a hodgepodge maze of ponds and shrines, and while there is a straightforward path that you can take walking due east or west, there is no shortage of minor trails and pathways that you can wander through.

Some of the apsaras here remain in excellent condition as do a couple of the lintels. The central stupa that sits in the central sanctuary is particularly photogenic. Most people enter Preah Khan from the west, but it is easily done from the east as well. Whichever way you do it, it is a good idea to ask your moto to wait for you at the other side to save you having to walk back.

Neak Pean

This unusual temple was constructed by Jayavarman VII on an island in the centre of the Jayatataka, the baray built by the same king in front of Preah Khan Temple.

Situated just off the Grand Circuit between Preah Khan and East Mebon, Neak Pean consists of a central shrine in a pool, probably representing Mount Meru surrounded by the sacred Lake Anavatapta, with four small chapels at the corners of the pool. Being surrounded by a pond, Neak Pean looks a lot better during the rainy season, but being small it can also get quite crowded at busy times of the day.

Prasat Kravan

Set just off the road from the east gate to Angkor Wat to Banteay Kdei, with its five squat brick sanctuaries Prasat Kravan looks like a bit of a drab affair, but the real attraction is within.

Unique for Khmer art, the interior of the sanctuaries contain brick bas reliefs of an outstanding standard. At the time of construction, Khmer brickies didn't use mortar but a vegetable compound instead. This has allowed the bricks to sit very close together and further accentuates the appeal of the bas reliefs.

If you see the occasional CA (stands for "Conservation Angkor") on some bricks, you're looking at one of the bricks that formed a part of the restoration that took place in the late 1960s. The name Prasat Kravan means "Cardomom Sanctuary", a reference to a large cardomom tree that once grew on the grounds.

Banteay Prei

Yet another Jayavarman VII era temple, though as with Banteay Thom this one would have been situated in the suburbs or surrounding villages of Angkor Thom and so may well have been the work of a local ruler.

Banteay Prei lies just to the north side of the Grand Circuit, roughly between Neak Pean and Ta Som and for its peaceful wooded location and some interesting carvings it's worth a quick peek if you're passing by. A central sandstone clad tower has interesting lintels, and there's two secondary laterite shrines plus remnants of a surrounding wall.

Krol Kro

Another former suburban temple of the Jayavarman VII period, Krol Kro is also situated on the north side of the Preah Khan Baray, so it's found just off the Grand Circuit road between Neak Pean and Ta Som.

Temples are thick on the ground in this area, indicating just how densely populated these northern suburbs of Angkor Thom were. As with Banteay Prei, the temple is orientated east but would also have had a splendid view to the south across the Jayatataka Baray. Otherwise ditto for Banteay Prei — small but cute temple set in a very quiet wooded location — fairly ruined but some interesting carvings remaining, though most of them now lie on the ground. Set on a laterite platform, there's a laterite and sandstone wall and gopuras, with a tumbled down central sandstone tower.

Ta Som

Ta Som is a compact temple — laterite enclosure wall, reasonably well preserved gopuras and central shrine — all recently renovated. Of particular note is the much photographed eastern gopura covered in tree roots.

This is the third Jayavarman VII temple in a row along the north side of the Grand Circuit road, but this one's a bit larger, a bit more popular and does possess postcards, cold drinks and bamboo flutes as opposed to the previous two, which are void of any vendors. All very scenic and definitely worth a stop if you're in the area.

East Baray

Built by Yasovarman I to guarantee a reliable water supply for his new city at Yasodharapura, the East Baray is now dry. Given the state of bustling Siem Reap's water supply, perhaps it should be refilled.

The baray is vast — 7.5km long by almost 2km wide — afer completion it was fed its water via a canal from the Roulos river that emptied into its northeastern corner. When full to a planned depth of 4m the baray held a massive 55 million cubic metres of water. Today there is no water to speak of — but towards the centre sits the East Mebon on a purpose-built temple island. What a splendid sight it must have been when the baray was full.

East Mebon

One of the advantages of building a temple on a custom-built island is that you don't need to worry about pesky diversions like walls, so it is no surprise the East Mebon has none.

Built under the eye of Rajendravarman II, the East Mebon was dedicated in 953 AD and has landing stages at its cardinal points where other temples might have causeways. This is because when the baray was full of water the only way to reach it was by boat. It is a three-tiered temple with five brick towers on a sandstone base.

The East Mebon is especially noteworthy for its large elephant statues — especially the one at the southeast corner of the second level. These outward-facing elephants were placed to act as temple guardians.

Banteay Samre

Banteay Samre translates as citadel of the Samre, a group of people who populated the Kulen hills to the northeast of Siem Reap.

The story goes that a poor Samre farmer by the name of Pou had a particular talent for growing sweet cucumbers. When Pou presented some of the cucumbers to the then-king, he was so taken with them he secured the exclusive rights and commanded Pou to kill anybody who tried to enter his cucumber fields without permission. When cucumber production dropped off during the monsoon, the king became impatient and snuck into the fields himself to try and source a few of the delectable cucumbers — the farmer followed his instructions and speared him to death. When he realised his mistake he buried the king in the middle of the field and hoped nobody would notice.

When a new king couldn't be decided upon, the dignitaries consulted a divine elephant to select the new monarch. The elephant walked straight to the farmer's shack, where it saluted the farmer, knelt and then encircled him with its trunk and placed him gently on its back.

Once king, Pou his predecessor dug up and performed proper funeral rites at Pre Rup (guides more often tell this story at Pre Rup than at Banteay Samre). His subjects were a bit put out being ruled by a Samre, and despite all his efforts he couldn't get the respect he deserved. In the end, Pou moved out to Banteay Samre and set up his court there.

Built by Suryavarman II, Banteay Samre is believed to have been completed early in the 12th century. An extensive renovation from 1936 to 1944 was led by archeologist Maurice Glaize and the results are impressive. With its tall and windowless laterite walls, the temple is rather citadel-like, and while the central tower may remind you of Angkor Wat, visitors who have seen the Khmer sites in Thailand will also notice similarities to the temples at Phanom Rung and Phimai.

It is thought that the temple sat at the centre of a sizeable city as the eastern causeway (which was once flanked by a naga bridge) runs for 200m and it's easy to imagine a city surrounding it. Aside from the imposing outer wall, another highlight worth mentioning are the unusually deeply carved lintels and pediments — while not as spectacular as Banteay Srei, they are nevertheless very attractive.

Best viewed in the early morning or late afternoon, many choose to combine a visit here with the trek out to Banteay Srei, in which case you are best to visit Banteay Samre before Banteay Srei to avoid disappointment.

Pre Rup

Pre Rup is a temple-mountain with the central pyramid comprising three levels atop a two-level base. Built of laterite, brick and sandstone, the early morning and warming afternoon light plays beautifully on the temple's stone.

Completed in 961 AD during the reign of King Rajendravarman, Pre Rup was constructed as his state temple following the establishment of a new capital on the southern bank of the eastern baray — Pre Rup sat at the centre of this new capital.

Pre Rup means "turn the body", a reference to the funeral rite where a corpse is turned on the charcoal. This name supported theories (not universally held) that Pre Rup was used for funerals — an opinion further backed up by the discovery of a small stone cistern to the east of the entrance thought to have been used for them.

The main attraction for the casual visitor are the sunset views, with the site being an ideal alternative to some of the more popular sunset viewpoints. Unfortunately, the guidebooks (guilty) have let other travellers in on this little secret, and it's now quite busy at sunset too. When we last visited, the sunset side of the temple was so crowded with noisy tourists that it spoiled the serene setting we had envisioned. From the summit you can see Angkor Wat, and if you're lucky enough to have the site to yourself, the serenity here, with the jungle rambling off to Angkor Wat, is excellent.

Srah Srang

Translated as Royal Baths, according to one source all creatures except elephants were allowed to bathe in Srah Srang, but today it is most popular as a spot for swimming by the local children.

Srah Srang is a mid-sized baray running out to the east of Banteay Kdei towards Pre Rup. Some 700m long and 300m wide, the baray was constructed during the reign of Jayavarman VII and has an almost sublime beauty to it — Angkor expert Maurice Glaize compared its majestic calm to that of Piece d'eau des Suisses at Versailles, yet many today give it but a passing glance.

The western end of the Srah Srang remains in the best condition, lined by a long stone wall with a terrace and staircase at its centre. The stairs are flanked by nagas and fearsome lions as they run down to the water's edge. Dawn here is breathtaking and late afternoon is also particularly pleasant. Should you have ample time, you can walk all the way around its edge. There's a bunch of food and drink stalls here should you be in need of refreshment.

Banteay Kdei

Far fewer visitors make it to the impressive Banteay Kdei than to nearby Ta Phrom, so take advantage of the thin crowds by spending more time here to really take in the feel of the place.

Lying to the west of Srah Srang and to the southeast of Ta Phrom, Banteay Kdei is a fusion of Angkor and Bayon styles. In its semi-ruined state, set on spacious, forested grounds, this temple remains one of the most underrated of Angkor's temples.

Although the site was extensively cleared between 1920 and 1922, stands of tall trees remain, some still attached to portions of the building. A large site — the outer wall measures 500 m by 700 m — Banteay Kdei is believed to have been constructed in the late 12th to early 13th century, during the reign of Jayavarman VII, atop a pre-existing site that dated back to the 10th century.

Banteay Kdei was a Buddhist monument and until the commencement of clearing in the early 1920s, a pagoda remained active at the site. During the reign of Jayavarman VIII, the site was expanded, and many of the Buddhist statues were vandalised or destroyed.

As with the other tree-sheltered sites, an early morning or late afternoon visit reaps smaller dividends due to the shade, so this is a good one to visit mid-morning or mid-afternoon. An ideal way to visit is to begin at Srah Srang, walk through Banteay Kdei from east to west, then turn north and follow the wall up to Ta Phrom, entering at the eastern gate, walking through there and having your transport pick you up at the western gate of Ta Phrom.

Ta Phrom

Made even more famous by Tomb Raider and overrun by silk-cotton trees and strangler vines, Ta Phrom is about as atmospheric as Angkor gets, and is for many the highlight of a visit to the complex.

The decision by the Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient to leave Ta Phrom in its original state was inspired, as although on places the trees are slowly destroying the monument, in others they're holding it together. Although there is a fairly well-travelled pathway through the monument, plenty of nooks and crannies, alleys and backways are around to explore.

Built by Jayavarman VII for his mother, and consecrated in 1186, Ta Phrom was the centrepiece of a city of more than 10,000 people and was also an active Buddhist monastery. While some interesting lintels and pediments are distributed throughout the temple, for the casual visitor here, the main attraction are the trees — in some places they've displaced the walls completely, leaving their roots to form the archways and rooves that were once made of stone.

Ta Phrom is a favourite among both professional and amateur photographers. Do remember that the monuments are well shaded when taking pics, and adjust your camera settings accordingly. Your guide may encourage you to do so, but do remember that climbing on the monuments contributes to their overall instability and isn't a very nice thing to do. Here ends our preaching.

Ta Phrom, after Angkor Wat and Bayon, is probably the most popular monument, and while best visited in the early morning or afternoon, any time is interesting. Take it slowly, finding spots to sit and take in the atmosphere as the crowds ebb and flow. Ta Phrom is large, so unlike Bayon it is more able to absorb large groups of people and it is rare that somewhere is crowded for more than a few minutes.

A visit here is best combined with a trip to Srah Srang and Bantaey Kdei. Start at Srah Srang, then walk through Bantaey Kdei before entering Ta Phrom through its eastern gate.

Ta Keo

One of the most striking facets of Ta Keo is its almost nude, undecorated state. Although construction commenced during the reign of Jayavarman V (ruled 968 to 1001), work ceased just after the carving began due to a lightning strike.

This massive temple mountain is almost 50m tall and was the first of the Khmer monuments to be built entirely of sandstone. Despite its no-frills state , the temple is well worth visiting, particularly in the early morning and late afternoon when the light brings out the warm hues in the sandstone.

The upper levels of the pyramid are so narrow that it's almost impossible to walk around them. In contrast, the top level is refreshingly spacious and decorated with four corner towers and a larger central tower. The views over the surrounding forest, in all directions, are terrific.

The road passes by the south and western walls of Ta Keo. The southern stairs are the most popular route but all the stairs here are very steep. We'd suggest entering at the south, then taking a quick right and climbing Ta Keo from the west — if nothing else it is a little less crowded.

Ta Nei

This rarely-visited site is as much an excuse for a walk through the woods as a site in its own right. Make the effort to get here and chances are you'll have it to yourself.

Built in the late 12th century during the reign of Jayavarman VII, Ta Nei is fairly small and was built with a mix of laterite and sandstone. The main point of interest is the often lichen-covered pediments and lintels, some of which remain in reasonable condition.

Thomannon

When you leave via Angkor Thom's eastern gate the first sites you'll reach are Thomannon and Chao Say Tevoda. It's easy to imagine these as add-ons to Angkor Thom, but in fact they predate it.

Thomannon underwent a major reconstruction under the watchful eye of Groslier in the 1960s and is now in remarkable condition. Like many monuments, this was originally a walled-in structure, but the outside wall has largely collapsed leaving the gopuras standing alone almost like mini-temples in their own right. Probably started by Jayavarman IV and continued by Dharanindravarman I, it seems to have been completed by Suryavarman II around the middle of the 12th century. (Dharanindravarman's influence is shown by the presence of some Buddhist imagery at this temple.) Many of the site's lintels are worn but the site is noteworthy for some of the devaratas with their fancy headgear that flank some of the sanctuary walls.

Chau Say Tevoda

Set opposite Thomannon, Chau Say Tevoda has recently benefited from a serious makeover funded by the Chinese government, with missing blocks replaced, walls consolidated and carvings de-mossed and cleaned up.

The new blocks unfortunately now stick out like sore thumbs but give it a year or two and it should be looking good. Along with its sister temple Thomannon, this is certainly worth a look if you can spare the time between the more famous temples, but if you only have time for one then check out Thomannon for its superb lintels and pediments.

Slightly later than Thomannon, Chau Say Tevoda may still have been begun by Dharanindravarman since it too has several explicitly Buddhist carvings, before being continued by Suryavarman II and perhaps Yasovarman II.

Bakong

The results of the painstaking reconstruction of the Bakong are impressive. If you're planning more than just a day or two exploring the monuments, be sure to make time for here.

Before its reconstruction, little remained of Bakong aside from a pile of rubble atop a small hill. Initial clearing work didn't commence until 1936 and the eventual reconstruction under the direction of Maurice Glaize (the conservator of Angkor from 1937 to 1945) took around seven years to complete.

Consecrated in 881 AD during the reign of King Indravarman I, the construction of the Bakong is believed to have been initiated by Indravarman's predecessor, Jayavarman III and became the state temple of Hariharalaya (modern-day Roulos). The layout of the site closely follows the principles of modelling Mount Meru with the moat surrounding the inner sanctum of five levels, with 10 small temples surrounding a tiered tower whose spire resembles the turreted, curved points of Angkor Wat. From the apex of the site, the model plan is quite obvious.

Potted plants and flowering bushes line the path that leads over the moat and into the temple complex. Once inside, a pagoda is to your right that, when we visited, looked like it was in the process of being rebuilt. The grounds within the moat include a collection of smaller buildings in variable states of repair and the view from the northeast corner takes in the whole complex pretty well. When you climb each of the five levels, make the time to walk all the way around before continuing up to the next level. Note the little elephants on each corner — even the harness details are still visible on some. On the fourth level, be sure to walk around to the south side where a fine fragment of bas relief remains, illustrating apsaras fighting a losing battle.

When you reach the top level, turn and look back to the east for a tremendous view that illustrates the plan of the complex very well. To the west side we're told you can see Angkor Wat, but we couldn't — perhaps with binoculars it's possible.

Exit the temple to the west, going straight down, and you'll stumble upon the remains of Nandi, Shiva's favourite bull. There is actually one at the base at each of the cardinal points, but the one at the west is the most bull-like, even if it still looks more like a cow.

Set a little over a kilometre off the main Siem Reap to Phnom Penh road at the 13km mark, Bakong is particularly splendid at dawn, and makes a fine contrast to the crowded scenes you're likely to come across at Angkor Wat and some of the other more popular monuments. The landmine victim playing his khem at one of the entrances is very talented.

More details
Roulos Group

Preah Ko

Built in 880 AD, Preah Ko, also called Paramesvara which means "Supreme God" or Shiva, was the first temple Indravarman I built in what was then an ancient capital in the region, Hariharalaya.

What remains of it today are six small brick towers sitting on a sandstone base along with a handful of outlying building in various state of ruins Each tower is dedicated to one of Indravarman's ancestors, including Jayavarman II (considered to be the founding father of the Khmer empire).

The sides of the doors of all six brick temples contain long inscriptions, but the big find here was the temple foundation steele in the gopura of the first enclosure. While the steele has been removed, part of the inscription is the eulogy of Indravarman I and reads, according to G. Coedes in Maurice Glaize's Angkor:

The right arm of the prince is long, strong and fearsome in battle as his flashing sword falls on his enemies, defeating kings in every direction. Invincible, he can be appeased by two enemies only — those who have their backs turned, and those who, valuing life, put themselves under his protection.

The main point of interest here are the lime mortar lintels and other decorative work that was affixed to the brick towers. Construction continues at the smaller surrounding stupas, but is complete on the main six towers and you can now enter these. Each has a small, active shrine inside.

More details
Roulos Group

Lolei

You wouldn't know it when you're standing there, but Lolei actually sits atop what was once an island at the centre of the Jayatataka Baray — a reservoir measuring 3,800m by 800m.

Today the reservoir has been drained and is used for rice cultivation but the island still hosts Lolei and an active wat.

While credited to Yasovarman I, the bulk of the basework was done by his father Indravarman I, who built the dyke and placed the island, leaving his son to build the actual temple completed in 893 AD — Sunday July 8, to be exact. The temples were once all painted white, and you can see traces on some of the apsaras still.

Lolei comprises four brick towers, none of which are in outstanding condition, varying from collapsed to the semi-restored. The highlight of Lolei is its lintels and door jambs, which remain in good nick. Inscriptions on the door jambs explain the date of construction and the division of tasks of the hundreds of servants dedicated to each temple. More interesting perhaps is the site's location within an active wat. A school is next door and students and teachers actively solicit donations on the temple grounds.

More details
Roulos Group

Banteay Srei

Undoubtedly Angkor's most beautiful, yet smallest temple, the soft pink sandstone and exceptional carvings of Banteay Srei or "Citadel of Women" never fail to delight the visitor.

Consecrated in 967 AD during the reign of King Rajendravarman, Banteay Srei was never a royal temple. It is thought to have been built by a guru of the king and it is believed that this lack of a royal go-ahead is one of the reasons why it is so small.

What Banteay may lack in size it more than makes up for in beauty. Some have suggested that the temple was built by women as no man could have created something so beautiful and with so fine a hand. The carvings cover an incredible amount of the temple's surface and the reliefs are often deep.

As with many Khmer temples, the main sections of Banteay Srei were built of laterite, but instead of the carving being done into a plaster coating normally layered onto the stone, the temple was faced with pink sandstone and the carvings done into that. The results are breathtaking. Throughout the monument are lintels, door jambs and window columns all layered with amazingly well executed and preserved carvings.

When the French came across the site in 1914 it was totally covered by forest and partly buried by earth. It didn't take them long to realise they'd stumbled upon an outstanding find, so outstanding in fact that French author Andre Lalraux decided to take a chunk of the temple home with him. He cut out over a tonne of the finest apsaras and other carvings and carted them back to Phnom Penh where he planned to surreptitiously freight his plunder back to France. Fortunately he was arrested and sentenced to a couple of years in prison (a term he never served) and the carvings were saved. Lalraux was later appointed Minister of Culture under Charles de Gaulle.

Banteay Srei is one of the most popular temples and, particularly in the morning, is overrun with tour bus upon tour bus. While early morning is a great time to visit as the sun shining direct on the temple really brings out all its beauty, we'd suggest trying mid to late afternoon (though not too late) to try to dodge the worst of the hordes.

The temple is some 32km from Siem Reap and your driver will expect a surcharge to cart you out here — be sure to agree on a price beforehand.

More details
32km from Siem Reap

Phnom Kulen

The daunting Phnom Kulen sandstone plateau is one of the most sacred spots in Cambodia. It was on this plateau that Jayavarman II was consecrated as the first god-king and declared Cambodia to be independent.

Aside from providing a fantastic viewpoint, the plateau is also home to Cambodia's largest reclining Buddha, a pretty waterfall, a handful of Cham and Khmer temples, and, well hidden away, a bunch of mythical stone guardians including a very impressive life-size stone elephant — you will need a guide and a motorbike to find the guardians.

The plateau is well wooded and due to its almost 500m elevation, the temperature is characterised by cool evenings and crisp mornings. It was well off the beaten track for a long time, but some tour companies now run trekking and camping trips here.

It all sounds great, but there's a catch: A Khmer businessman built the road up to the summit and charges $20 per foreigner to use it. It's a very disappointing state of affairs and results in many visitors boycotting the site.

More details
50km from Siem Reap

Kbal Spean

Along with Phnom Kulen, Kbal Spean is regarded as an auspicious location as it is from this hill that Kbal Spean river flows down to join the larger Siem Reap river.

Before it leaves the hill though, the water is blessed by flowing over some 100m of sacred linga and Hindu deities that have been carved into its bedrock riverbed. Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma are all in attendance, and the Sanskrit name, Sahasralinga, or "river of a thousand lingas", gives a hint of the linga abundance going on (though there's not actually a thousand).

Best at the tail-end of the monsoon (October to December), Kbal Spean is well worth a visit, both for the intricate carvings and the very pleasing, verdant jungle setting. A medium-sized waterfall and a couple of small swimming holes nearby can be used if you feel you're in need of a bit of blessing yourself.

Located around 50km northeast of Siem Reap, the site is reached via a 1.5km trail that winds up from the car park to the riverbed. Your moto will expect extra payment to bring you here — be sure to agree on a price beforehand.

More details
50km northeast of Siem Reap

Beng Mealea

One of our favourites, Beng Mealea sits on the ancient royal road from Angkor Wat to Preah Khan (in Preah Vihear province) and was built during the reign of Suryavarman II.

With a similar overgrown feel to Ta Phrom, the atmosphere at Beng Mealea (which means Lotus Pond) is like no other — don't be surprised to see Tomb Raider or Indiana Jones on site. Badly ruined in places, an elevated wooden walkway has been built throughout the site which makes it more accessible and also allows for some rather unusual elevated views you wouldn't otherwise be able to enjoy.

Sadly looters did a fair degree of damage here. We were told the central tower was dynamited in order to get at certain pieces for private collectors. Many pieces lay atop one another in chaotic piles of moss and lichen covered stone, but upon closer inspection you'll see many a decorative piece among the bare building blocks.

This area was heavily mined. According to our guide the mines here were dropped by Lon Nol forces, Khmer Rouge and the Vietnamese, considerably complicating the demining work. While the demining has in theory been completed, this still isn't an area to go bush-bashing in.

Beng Mealea is not covered by the Angkor Pass and there's an admission fee of $5 to enter, though unlike Phnom Kulen it is worth it.

More details
80km from Siem Reap

Wat Athvea

A surprisingly and unfortunately overlooked temple lying in the suburbs of Siem Reap town, it's a few kilometres out of the centre, just off the road to the Tonle Sap, within the grounds of a modern wat.

Wat Athvea is part of the Angkor site and an Angkor pass is required to visit. The temple itself is relatively large and after being restored is in very good condition. Built during the reign of Suryavarman II, Wat Athvea bares a passing resemblance to Banteay Samre, though it is devoid of any reliefs except for a couple of lonely apsaras. It also features a large laterite enclosure wall with sandstone gopuras and towers in the Angkor Wat style. You're also pretty much guaranteed to have the place to yourself, so it's a good spot for a wander.

Chau Say Vibol

Definitely looks more like a fortress than a temple, built as it is on a steep rocky outcrop enclosed within a wide laterite wall and though lacking in inscriptions its style points to the Suryavarman I period.

A remote, very rarely visited but atmospheric site quite unlike any of the other temples in the Angkor area, Chau Say Vibol must have been a large, imposing and important site in its day. Now it's a a total ruin. The fact that it was clearly a strategic point, guarding the approaches to Angkor as well as the roads to Beng Mealea and Koh Ker, along with its fortress-like construction, seems to indicate destruction at the hand of humans rather than nature alone. Huge piles of massive sandstone blocks litter the ground on the top of the hill and ancillary buildings within the large complex lie in shattered mounds.

Some towers in the central complex do remain and the outer enclosure wall in laterite is still relatively intact, with four gopuras still evident. If you look carefully among the rubble you'll find some carvings with Hindu themes but basically this one is worth visiting for its unusual construction and atmosphere. Don't wander too far off the beaten track, be prepared for a lot of clambering over stones and watch out for snakes!

Chau Say Vibol is accessible by bicycle, motorbike and on a good day tuk-tuk or car. Take the road to Phnom Bok then hang a right — you may have to ask the locals for Prasart Chau Say Vibol. There's a rough track, which may or may not have been upgraded by now, which heads south passing through some scenic villages and eventually hitting the main Siem Reap-Phnom Penh highway near Rolous. The temple is situated on this track at the point where it hits the old Angkor to Beng Mealea road. So road conditions permitting you should be able to do a loop and return to Siem Reap from Rolous making for an interesting and off the beaten track Phnom Bok, Chau Say Vibol, Rolous circuit.)

Phnom Krom

Set atop the small mountain near the ferry dock and overlooking the Tonle Sap sits Phnom Krom, a 9th to 10th century temple built by Yasovarman I. This is a fabulous alternative sunset choice.

As you can't see the temple from ground level, the vast majority of visitors who arrive at Siem Reap via ferry whistle into Siem Reap oblivious to the site.

Phnom Krom sits within a 50m square enclosure, upon which are three ruined sandstone towers on a north-south axis. Running from north to south the towers are dedicated to Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma.

Partly due to age, partly due to the use of sandstone and partly due to the prevailing strong winds that blow off the Tonle Sap, the decorative works throughout this site are in very poor condition. Nevertheless, the site is not a complete loss, as the views — all 360 degrees of them, taking in from the Tonle Sap to the Western Baray — are absolutely magnificent.

Phrom Krom can be accessed by either a long, steamy and sweaty climb up the stairs, or by road in a car or by motorbike.

More details
12km from Siem Reap

Phnom Bok

Quite isolated, the highlight of a visit here are the views and when in flower, the beautiful frangapani trees that appear to almost explode out of the tops of two of the towers.

Along with Phnom Krom and Phnom Bakheng, Phnom Bok is the third of Yasovarman I's hilltop efforts. Once used as a strategic military post, Phnom Bok sits at the summit of the highest hill near to Angkor. At well over 200m high, this is considerably higher than Phnom Krom (140m) and Phnom Bakheng (a mere 60m). While the views here once had considerable military value, today they're far more valuable to the trickle of visitors that make it out here.

Phnom Bok is reached by a road that splits off from the main drag to Banteay Srei. It's around another 8km from the main road.

More details
Around 25km from Siem Reap

West Baray

Even bigger than the East Baray, the West Baray is the largest artificial lake in the area and to this day remains nearly half full of water, providing locals with a great spot to swim and picnic.

Constructed during the reign of Suryavarman I, the baray measures 8km by 2.2km, has an average depth of some 7m and holds in total around 123 million cubic litres of water. As with the East Baray there is a temple island at the lake's centre, the West Mebon.

The baray is a very popular picnic spot with the locals, and the southern and sout western shores of the lake are lined with snack and drink stalls. It's very pleasant during a hot day in the rainy season but when water levels get a bit low during March and April the place can get a bit grubby.

The area under the Western Baray was an important habitation site for a long period before the baray's construction. Remains of a prehistoric settlement dating to around 3,000 BC have been discovered under the reservoir's waters and a large pre-Angkor city, located in the southwestern quadrant of the lake, had to be abandoned with the onset of construction work on the site.

Back in the 7th century Jayavarman I's city of Purandurapura was probably located in this area, possibly around the Prei Khmeng temple. Another early city, Aninditapura, capital of Jayavarman's daughter Queen Jayadevi, was probably centred on the ancient temple of Ak Yum. Today both temple sites are little more than piles of bricks but Ak Yum, located right by the road running along the baray's south bank, is worth a stop if you're passing by. More 7th and 8th century temples were certainly lost beneath the waters of the baray.

West Mebon

Built atop an artificial island in the waters of the West Baray, other than two still-standing gopuras there isn't all that much else left to see of the original West Mebon.

Built upon the orders of Udayadityavarman II, it is thought that perhaps the central sanctuary here was constructed of wood, as that would explain why there is so little left. One impressive find though was a massive bronze statue of Vishnu found in 1936. The statue is now at the National Museum in Phnom Penh.

Ak Yum

This unspectacular pile of bricks is not worth going out of your way for but if you're passing it's worth a stop at what is one of the most historically important and oldest temples in the area.

The temple lies just off the track along the southern embankment of the West Baray and was clearly heavily damaged during the lake's construction. An inscription from 613 has been found at the site, indicating that probably the first temple on the site dates to either the reign of the great Ishnarvarman himself or his father Mahendravarman, though it was during the later 7th, early 8th century and the reigns of Jayavarman I and his daughter Queen Jayadevi that the capital was moved to this site. Ak Yum more than likely became the state-temple of their city Aninditapura.

Though now all that can be seen is the remains of a laterite step platform surrounded by a few piles of bricks it must have been a lot more impressive in its prime and was certainly the first ever step pyramid-type temple constructed by the Khmers. The sparse remains seen today presumably date from an upgrade during Jayavarman II's occupation of the area. Note there are no guardians at this temple so no pass is needed.