Where am I again?
Region: Southern Laos> Province: Attapeu>Location: Attapeu
Attapeu sights and attractions
South of Attepeu - A pleasant wander around
Description
Take the ferry across to Ban Sekhaman -- the 'pier' is in front of the Saysekong Hotel, ferries run all day, cost 1,000 kip per person, 2,000 kip more to transport a motorcylce. Ban Sekhaman is a pleasant village for a walk around, with a couple of noodle stalls and a crumbling wat.
Phu Wong, 16km away is a fairly uninteresting town whilst the road continues onto a dam construction site. Lao officials really don't like tourists wandering around down here, near to the dam and there is some controversial resettlement of tribal people (due to the said dam) going on in the same area.
West of Attepeu - Just paddyfields
Description
Route 18, little more than a truck-wide dirt track leads off towards Thang Beng through paddyfields and surrounding scrub. There is little of interest here, though it would be a great short cut to Champasak Province, if it weren't for the fact that the road eventually becomes extremely difficult -- the road meets up with several rivers that can't be forded easily in wet season, and no bridges have been built to span the water.
North of Attepeu - A rewarding hike
Description
This makes for a rewarding hike heading north towards Pak Song and Sekong. The first 5-6km of straight road head toward the edge of the plateau before veering off to the right to parallel the 1,000m high ridge.
You could do this bit by tuk tuk and get off at the sharp right turn. A sandy track carries straight on towards the plateau. Keep going straight on for about 4-5km and the track turns to the right and you'll arrive at a large village. Follow the path through the village until you arrive at the foot of the plateau.
The path leading up through woods is reasonably easy to follow will take you a good couple of hours to reach the top so take plenty of water (warning, the village at the foot sells neither food nor water).
The forest gets lush at the top and there is a great view over the Sekong valley to mountains in the south.
East of Attepeu - Highly recommended
Description
On the other side of the new bridge across the Sekong River the road leads to the village of Xaysettha (this is the new name of the village, the old name is Phang Daeng) a particularly friendly village around 12km and 20 minutes away. It has a couple of interesting wats with a pretty setting on the bank of the Se Khaman River -- all the locals seem to spend all day long lolling around in the river, fishing, swimming and chatting. You can get out here by tuk-tuk from the riverside market at the base of the bridge -- costs 10,000 kip.
While you're there, ask for Wat Phang Daeng -- two blocks past the Huay Phateun bridge -- which is a good starting point for a stroll around the village. It is a nice wat with a khmer style prang built in 1935 and the small chapel contains a large seated Buddha, though the rest of the wat looks a lot older. (none of the locals seems to know just when it was originally built.)
Walking through the village towards the fjord you'll see some ruined French colonial buildings and a smaller wat painted an unusual turquoise with some nice wooden carvings.
Wade through the fjord (waist height in dry season) or pay the boatman and you'll be in the village of Muang Khao on the opposite bank. The highlight here is Wat Luang, a very old, very prestigious wat that looks like it will fall down at any minute. There is a huge Buddha inside though.
Next to the wat a path leads through a small wood where the original forest has been preserved by the locals as a place to collect plant specimens for herbal medicines.
The path emerges from the copse onto the river bank opposite Wat Phaeng Daeng, swim across or pay a boatman. There is a government guesthouse, the Santisouk Guest House T:(036) 211 717, on the riverbank just to the left of the wat. It has nine pretty dingy and basic rooms with shared facilities -- they're a steal at 30,000 kip a night. There's also some cafes across the street from the wat with sticky rice, noodles and drinks -- the one at the head of the road to the pier has exceptionally good noodles. Tuk tuks cruise past the cafes before heading back to Attapeu.
Guided Tours around Attapeu - Lots to do
Via Attapeu Travel, Attapeu Palace Hotel
Description
The following activities can be undertaken, in whole or in part, on your own, but in most cases and for most travellers, guided tours will be the way to go. Unexploded ordnance is still a problem in the area, though if you stick to the beaten path, this shouldn't be a problem. The real obstacle is finding some of these remote sights, which are largely unmarked -- also medical emergencies and motorcycle breakdowns can quickly turn your trek into a logistical nightmare. If you try the more challenging bits on your own, make sure you know how to ask for help in Laos.
Scaled down versions of all these treks can be undertaken as independent day-trips by motorbike. Guided tours can be arranged at Attapeu Travel at the Attapeu Palace. Presently the entire operation is being run by Mr. Ngai, a scrappy young man who's a hell of a nice guy and speaks excellent English. Plan ahead, as guides are in short supply and trips don't leave every day. Prices vary widely depending on how much or how little you want to attempt, but expect to pay about US$50 per person per day for small groups, and as a little as US$15 per person per day for larger groups.
Xepian River, Tad Samongphak, Tad Saepha
One of the tours on offer at Attapeu Travel at the Attapeu Palace starts off by travelling 48km to Samamxai district. There's a stop at Nonglom Lake to view 'bird life,' but when we visited the place we saw no birds and weren't all that impressed with the small lake. The strip does offer some stunning views of the edge of the Boulevan Plateau looming above this low-lying area, but the road is strewn with golf-ball sized gravel, making a motorbike trip a slow, bumpy experience -- the 48km trip takes two hours. The road terminates in the quiet, rural village of Ban Mai along the Xepian River.
You can get to Tad Samongphak on foot or by motorbike, though it's necessary to cross the river by boat -- 2,000 kip per person, 3,000 more for a motorbike. From there it's ten kilometres -- a long hike and a technically challenging motorbike ride. You'll have to stop and ask for directions along the way, but you'll eventually wind up on a logging road with an irrigation canal down the center, which finally terminates in a cow path through the forest and lets out at the top of the lower set of falls -- the water there is excellent for swimming. There's a path on either side that leads downstream to an extremely treacherous, rotting, bamboo bridge across the base of the falls -- we crossed it, but felt lucky to be alive when we were done.
In order to visit Saepha Falls overland, it's necessary to cross the river. It's very tricky to get a motorbike across this stretch of the river, but the locals know how to do it, so if you're keen to press on, you'll probably want to round some of them up and pay them to do it for you. From there it's another 6km to Saepha.
To get to the upper set of the Samongphak falls, you'll need to charter a boat up the river -- takes one hour, costs US$5 per person. From there it's a six-kilometre walk along a path to the Saepha Falls, which takes three hours. Apparently there's a short cut that, while not as scenic, will get you there more quickly -- ask around.
Guided tours covering the area usually offer a home stay in Ban Mai. Unless you start very early in the morning indeed, it will likely be dark by the time you've properly explored the area, so a night in the village makes sense -- you can show up and arrange a home stay on your own just by asking around -- expect to contribute at least 20,000 kip per person for accommodation, and chip in for meals as well.
Saeponglai Waterfall
Attapeu Travel offer a 2 to 3 day trek to the Saephonglai Waterfall. It starts early in the morning with a trip to Tamayot village, 60km away. After crossing the Xepian River by boat, it's a 12km hike to Ban Tamayot, an ethnic Su village. The falls are another 18km further on. By the time you get there it'll be getting dark, so its necessary to spend a night camping at the falls, so you'll have to bring your own gear or scare some up in Attapeu. Return the next day with an optional overnight home-stay in Tamayot Village. This requires nearly 40km of hiking, so you should be fairly fit for this trek. A motorbike version which requires less walking is also available.
Pa Am
About 45 km from Attapeu town is a spot called Pa Am where an old Russian surface-to-air missile launcher is on display, along a stretch of the Ho Chi Minh trail. You can get here by motorbike or on a guided tour. The trip can be extended to include the Saephonglai Waterfall. A two day trek may include an overnight in an Alak tribal village, and a third day can be added for a night of camping.
Nong Fa Lake
This huge, serene, crystal-clear lake (sometimes called Nong Kai Ok, or Cock Lake) is believed to have been formed by a volcanic eruption millions of years ago, and the local inhabitants regard it as sacred. It used to be accessible by motorbike or 4WD vehicle via a dirt road used by a Vietnamese company that was logging in the area. In 2003, however, their license expired and they pulled out, leaving the road to deteriorate so badly it's now impassable except on foot. The only way to get there now is via a 5 to 6 day trek that costs about 350 USD per person. If you've got the time, the money, and the physical fitness to handle it, it comes highly recommended by those who have undertaken it. Plan way in advance by contacting Mr. Ngai at Attapue travel or another guided tour outfit operating in the area.
Attapeu Travel
Attapeu Palace
T: (036) 211 204;(020) 552 2219;(020) 240 9186
F: (036) 211 834
E-mail: atpalace@yahoo.com, a_noy2005@yahoo.com